Flying Fish Nitro Upgrades

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Thanks, man. I appreciate the pics, too. The take away is maybe more control unless you hit something hard enough to break parts and then it will cost me more to fix it. I think I want to have both types so I will buy a 94122 chassis with no engine as I have a spare motor. I need to learn how to tune next! Thanks to all who replied!

Good luck!

Also, you can upgrade just the radio tray on your 94102 to the 94122 version, which fits the receiver + batteries much more easily. All the screw posts are in the same place.
 
Good luck!

Also, you can upgrade just the radio tray on your 94102 to the 94122 version, which fits the receiver + batteries much more easily. All the screw posts are in the same place.
Thats the best part about the HSP based stuff. Everything is so interchangeable and upgradeable, as long as the chassis is the same, that you can make anything from a touring or drift car, to a rally car, monster truck, desert truck, buggy. I have had a couple nitro monster trucks that i easily converted to electric buggies, and, in my post about my collection, one started out as a monster truck, and went through several changes, from being a rally car, to a short course truck, and ultimately becoming a buggy.
 
Thats the best part about the HSP based stuff. Everything is so interchangeable and upgradeable, as long as the chassis is the same, that you can make anything from a touring or drift car, to a rally car, monster truck, desert truck, buggy. I have had a couple nitro monster trucks that i easily converted to electric buggies, and, in my post about my collection, one started out as a monster truck, and went through several changes, from being a rally car, to a short course truck, and ultimately becoming a buggy.
Are the HSP aluminum frames on AliExpress all the same quality or is one made better than the others? I need a 02001 and they sell for $5 to $18. I was thinking the Vgoohobby frame for $5.61 looks like my frame and curves up on the sides which adds a little strength. It would be better if they said what type of aluminum it was milled from. I am not expecting aerospace grade for less than $20.
Thanks!
 
Are the HSP aluminum frames on AliExpress all the same quality or is one made better than the others? I need a 02001 and they sell for $5 to $18. I was thinking the Vgoohobby frame for $5.61 looks like my frame and curves up on the sides which adds a little strength. It would be better if they said what type of aluminum it was milled from. I am not expecting aerospace grade for less than $20.
Thanks!
They are pretty much the same. I have had chassis from Redcat Racing, Hobby Park, HSP, Exceed RC, and pretty much every company that sells them on Amazon and AliExpress, and, the only difference i really found was color. One thing to make sure of though, is which cars the chassis is listed for. For example, this one is for the 94102: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805506119425.html?pdp_npi=2@dis!USD!$4.84!$4.26!!!!!@2103250716883517871666714e9849!12000034025663756!btf&_t=pvid:dd807f25-4eb3-41a5-a88a-663bdbdcc818&afTraceInfo=1005005692434177__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1688351787&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa and is listed for the 94101 and 94102, but, this chassis is listed for the 94123: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804636062880.html?pdp_npi=2@dis!USD!$8.81!$5.90!!!!!@2101c5c316883518634505039ea734!12000030617216925!btf&_t=pvid:026616de-3de5-4509-9b53-b96f9b3818c9&afTraceInfo=1005004822377632__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1688351863&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa and also fits the 94103, but, this chassis is listed for the 94102, as well as the following cars (HSP 94123 94101 94102 94103 94103Pro), so make absolutely certain which chassis it actually is. IIRC, the electric cars the chassis is flat, and the nitro cars arent, but, its been over a year since i messed with converting a nitro to electric, so dont quote me on that.
 
They are pretty much the same. I have had chassis from Redcat Racing, Hobby Park, HSP, Exceed RC, and pretty much every company that sells them on Amazon and AliExpress, and, the only difference i really found was color. One thing to make sure of though, is which cars the chassis is listed for. For example, this one is for the 94102: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805506119425.html?pdp_npi=2@dis!USD!$4.84!$4.26!!!!!@2103250716883517871666714e9849!12000034025663756!btf&_t=pvid:dd807f25-4eb3-41a5-a88a-663bdbdcc818&afTraceInfo=1005005692434177__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1688351787&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa and is listed for the 94101 and 94102, but, this chassis is listed for the 94123: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804636062880.html?pdp_npi=2@dis!USD!$8.81!$5.90!!!!!@2101c5c316883518634505039ea734!12000030617216925!btf&_t=pvid:026616de-3de5-4509-9b53-b96f9b3818c9&afTraceInfo=1005004822377632__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1688351863&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa and also fits the 94103, but, this chassis is listed for the 94102, as well as the following cars (HSP 94123 94101 94102 94103 94103Pro), so make absolutely certain which chassis it actually is. IIRC, the electric cars the chassis is flat, and the nitro cars arent, but, its been over a year since i messed with converting a nitro to electric, so dont quote me on that.
Thanks again for your help, friend. I finally got one of my cars running today for a while and it was fun. As I only have nitro, I’m regretting that decision and wished I had bought at least one electric car. I spend half my time just adjusting the darn thing and less time driving it.
 
Thanks again for your help, friend. I finally got one of my cars running today for a while and it was fun. As I only have nitro, I’m regretting that decision and wished I had bought at least one electric car. I spend half my time just adjusting the darn thing and less time driving it.
Hey guys! I have ordered an HSP 94122 chassis (with no engine) at someone’s recommendation and a polished curved exhaust header and muffler. I have received the exhaust (looks cool!) but there is no hardware to attach the header to the engine (Vertex18) or to attach the muffler to the chassis. I ordered a Vertex18 engine which came with a flywheel and clutch attached as well as motor mounts but there is no hardware to connect the motor assembly to the chassis. I looked at the schematics and it does not say what kind of hardware to use. Where can I find the correct screws and/or nuts and bolts? I assume they are special types for RC. I looked on line at various on-line sites and can’t find any that make sense for these issues. Do they assume you will re-use hardware you have? Thanks, again.
 
Hey guys! I have ordered an HSP 94122 chassis (with no engine) at someone’s recommendation and a polished curved exhaust header and muffler. I have received the exhaust (looks cool!) but there is no hardware to attach the header to the engine (Vertex18) or to attach the muffler to the chassis. I ordered a Vertex18 engine which came with a flywheel and clutch attached as well as motor mounts but there is no hardware to connect the motor assembly to the chassis. I looked at the schematics and it does not say what kind of hardware to use. Where can I find the correct screws and/or nuts and bolts? I assume they are special types for RC. I looked on line at various on-line sites and can’t find any that make sense for these issues. Do they assume you will re-use hardware you have? Thanks, again.

The vast majority of the screws on HSP cars are M3-thread machine screws. The ones in plastic are coarse thread m3. I bought a few multi-kits with lengths between 5mm and 25mm, makes maintenance easy. You can probably put the car you bought together without having to buy more screws.

The roller will include motor mounts and pair of bolts for the exhaust, as well as a stock exhaust setup. You can carefully peel the gasket off of the included header and put it on the one you bought.
They are pretty much the same. I have had chassis from Redcat Racing, Hobby Park, HSP, Exceed RC, and pretty much every company that sells them on Amazon and AliExpress, and, the only difference i really found was color. One thing to make sure of though, is which cars the chassis is listed for. For example, this one is for the 94102: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805506119425.html?pdp_npi=2@dis!USD!$4.84!$4.26!!!!!@2103250716883517871666714e9849!12000034025663756!btf&_t=pvid:dd807f25-4eb3-41a5-a88a-663bdbdcc818&afTraceInfo=1005005692434177__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1688351787&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa and is listed for the 94101 and 94102, but, this chassis is listed for the 94123: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804636062880.html?pdp_npi=2@dis!USD!$8.81!$5.90!!!!!@2101c5c316883518634505039ea734!12000030617216925!btf&_t=pvid:026616de-3de5-4509-9b53-b96f9b3818c9&afTraceInfo=1005004822377632__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1688351863&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa and also fits the 94103, but, this chassis is listed for the 94102, as well as the following cars (HSP 94123 94101 94102 94103 94103Pro), so make absolutely certain which chassis it actually is. IIRC, the electric cars the chassis is flat, and the nitro cars arent, but, its been over a year since i messed with converting a nitro to electric, so dont quote me on that.

There's 6 chassis total:
Off-road: (bent chassis, slightly longer):
Nitro pivot ball (941xx),
nitro C-link (9410x), for x from 3 to 8
Electric off-road: 94111

Onroad: (flat chassis, shorter)
Nitro pivot ball: 94122
Nitro C-link: 94102
Electric onroad: 94123

The C-link chassis can be identified by holes in the front and rear for diff cases, and nitro versions by holes in the center for the bump start and transmission gears.
 
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The vast majority of the screws on HSP cars are M3-thread machine screws. The ones in plastic are coarse thread m3. I bought a few multi-kits with lengths between 5mm and 25mm, makes maintenance easy. You can probably put the car you bought together without having to buy more screws.

The roller will include motor mounts and pair of bolts for the exhaust, as well as a stock exhaust setup. You can carefully peel the gasket off of the included header and put it on the one you bought.


There's 6 chassis total:
Off-road: (bent chassis, slightly longer):
Nitro pivot ball (941xx),
nitro C-link (9410x), for x from 3 to 8
Electric off-road: 94111

Onroad: (flat chassis, shorter)
Nitro pivot ball: 94122
Nitro C-link: 94102
Electric onroad: 94123

The C-link chassis can be identified by holes in the front and rear for diff cases, and nitro versions by holes in the center for the bump start and transmission gears.
Thanks, for the help. I haven’t received the roller yet. I’m glad to hear it includes what I need to mount the engine and exhaust! I will post pictures when I’m finished and you can see what options I chose along with the body shell. In another note, I was thinking of buying a XRAY 1/8th Nitro and changed my mind because of the cost of the kit plus a good motor plus electronics is a lot and I would go nuts if I crashed it. Instead, I am considering an ARRMA Infraction 6S as the initial outlay is much less than the XRAY and the Infraction appears to be pretty durable. I’m I making a logical decision? I was SO interested in hearing the XRAY scream as noise is part of the experience for me. Thanks, again.
 
Thanks, for the help. I haven’t received the roller yet. I’m glad to hear it includes what I need to mount the engine and exhaust! I will post pictures when I’m finished and you can see what options I chose along with the body shell. In another note, I was thinking of buying a XRAY 1/8th Nitro and changed my mind because of the cost of the kit plus a good motor plus electronics is a lot and I would go nuts if I crashed it. Instead, I am considering an ARRMA Infraction 6S as the initial outlay is much less than the XRAY and the Infraction appears to be pretty durable. I’m I making a logical decision? I was SO interested in hearing the XRAY scream as noise is part of the experience for me. Thanks, again.
If you just started out in the hobby, it might indeed be a nice idea to get a electric: they're very useful during situations where all nitro's need to be repaired😂 I'm talking from my experience... but don't take this the wrong way.

Edit: hey don't forget about the exhaust gasket and that you've to break the engine in
 
If you just started out in the hobby, it might indeed be a nice idea to get a electric: they're very useful during situations where all nitro's need to be repaired😂 I'm talking from my experience... but don't take this the wrong way.

Edit: hey don't forget about the exhaust gasket and that you've to break the engine in
Very funny indeed and probably true. Thanks, friend!
 
Thanks, for the help. I haven’t received the roller yet. I’m glad to hear it includes what I need to mount the engine and exhaust! I will post pictures when I’m finished and you can see what options I chose along with the body shell. In another note, I was thinking of buying a XRAY 1/8th Nitro and changed my mind because of the cost of the kit plus a good motor plus electronics is a lot and I would go nuts if I crashed it. Instead, I am considering an ARRMA Infraction 6S as the initial outlay is much less than the XRAY and the Infraction appears to be pretty durable. I’m I making a logical decision? I was SO interested in hearing the XRAY scream as noise is part of the experience for me. Thanks, again.
Did you determine the weight penalty for aluminum upgrades you made or is it not that much? Can it make the car bottom out more easily? Thanks!
 
I used an HSP flywheel, but not the stock one - the 3-shoe one intended for their 1/8ths. I had to grind a bevel onto its edge to make it clear the carb.

Steering servo, same as throttle - PDI-4408MG. I edited / added to my original reply, see some of the notes / challenges about swaps at the bottom. The biggest challenge with the Sh.12 was customizing the engine mounts. I may be able to fix up a set for you if you're interested, just because I've amassed the tooling to do so...

Edit: Another engine that you could swap in - the K18. I've purchased one, it came in a Force/FC engine box, and has a recognizable FC crankcase. Appears to be a long-shaft Force.18 engine. This would drop in with no modifications to any parts.
What is the advantage of K18 engine swap over Vertex V18? I looked up the K18 specs and it says limit is 1hp and 35,000 rpm’s. Isn’t this similar if not the same as Vertex? I appreciate you. Thanks!
 
What is the advantage of K18 engine swap over Vertex V18? I looked up the K18 specs and it says limit is 1hp and 35,000 rpm’s. Isn’t this similar if not the same as Vertex? I appreciate you. Thanks!

The VX-18 maxes out at around 28k RPM. That'll get it to 39mph with stock gearing, at least that was my personal best before any upgrades. With the K18, you should be able to hit 45mph or even a little more.

Did you determine the weight penalty for aluminum upgrades you made or is it not that much? Can it make the car bottom out more easily? Thanks!

Sorry I never got back to you on this one - Just weighing the diff cases, the aluminum parts weigh nearly twice as much as their plastic counterparts. Over the entire car though, that's still probably under 100g difference. This won't make the car more likely to bottom out, but I have accumulated plenty of scratches from pebbles and uneven pavement. I built one with extra ground clearance (bent the chassis to let the arms droop more), and it still looks nearly new.

I do apply pretty substantial preload to my car's suspension to be satisfied with its performance though, that may help if you're worried about it bottoming out, that and a stiffer shock oil.
 
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The VX-18 maxes out at around 28k RPM. That'll get it to 39mph with stock gearing, at least that was my personal best before any upgrades. With the K18, you should be able to hit 45mph or even a little more.



Sorry I never got back to you on this one - Just weighing the diff cases, the aluminum parts weigh nearly twice as much as their plastic counterparts. Over the entire car though, that's still probably under 100g difference. This won't make the car more likely to bottom out, but I have accumulated plenty of scratches from pebbles and uneven pavement. I built one with extra ground clearance (bent the chassis to let the arms droop more), and it still looks nearly new.

I do apply pretty substantial preload to my car's suspension to be satisfied with its performance though, that may help if you're worried about it bottoming out, that and a stiffer shock oil.
The VX-18 maxes out at around 28k RPM. That'll get it to 39mph with stock gearing, at least that was my personal best before any upgrades. With the K18, you should be able to hit 45mph or even a little more.



Sorry I never got back to you on this one - Just weighing the diff cases, the aluminum parts weigh nearly twice as much as their plastic counterparts. Over the entire car though, that's still probably under 100g difference. This won't make the car more likely to bottom out, but I have accumulated plenty of scratches from pebbles and uneven pavement. I built one with extra ground clearance (bent the chassis to let the arms droop more), and it still looks nearly new.

I do apply pretty substantial preload to my car's suspension to be satisfied with its performance though, that may help if you're worried about it bottoming out, that and a stiffer shock oil.
Okay, great! Well I’ve received a K-18 and also 2 complete HSP 94122 chassis (one with engine and one without). I really like the front suspension a lot better than my HSP 94102 which I will sell. I’ve also got new servos on order. I’m looking forward to a complete car soon! I purchased a clear Nissan GTR body and someone is painting it metallic maroon for me. Take care!
 
Okay, great! Well I’ve received a K-18 and also 2 complete HSP 94122 chassis (one with engine and one without). I really like the front suspension a lot better than my HSP 94102 which I will sell. I’ve also got new servos on order. I’m looking forward to a complete car soon! I purchased a clear Nissan GTR body and someone is painting it metallic maroon for me. Take care!
One last thing - I have learned a lot from those who replied and I’m thankful. It is great that some have chosen to help other new RC fans.
One last thing - I have learned a lot from those who replied and I’m thankful. It is great that some have chosen to help other new RC fans.
I forgot to say thanks about the weight issue. I think I am going to be selective with aluminum parts so it will but bottom out on uneven surfaces as badly. I’m also going to buy a vinyl wrap for the aluminum chassis to protect it. It is a lot of money to do all these mods however I think that is what makes RC fun.
 
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One last thing - I have learned a lot from those who replied and I’m thankful. It is great that some have chosen to help other new RC fans.

I forgot to say thanks about the weight issue. I think I am going to be selective with aluminum parts so it will but bottom out on uneven surfaces as badly. I’m also going to buy a vinyl wrap for the aluminum chassis to protect it. It is a lot of money to do all these mods however I think that is what makes RC fun.
Here is my first HSP Flying Fish Nitro 94102 chassis with aluminum wheels, header and polished aluminum muffler, electric starter and other items. I have listed on EBay way under my costs for $250. It will come with original HSP box with a tool kit and has never been started. The problem is I bought way too many of them for my personal use and need to get as much of the cash back as possible soon. I got carried away.

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Here is my first HSP Flying Fish Nitro 94102 chassis with aluminum wheels, header and polished aluminum muffler, electric starter and other items. I have listed on EBay way under my costs for $250. It will come with original HSP box with a tool kit and has never been started. The problem is I bought way too many of them for my personal use and need to get as much of the cash back as possible soon. I got carried away.

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See below pictures for sale on Ebay brand new HSP Flying Fish (black GTR body) with over $200 in upgrades. Includes 2 sets of aluminum wheels, steering servo upgrade, exhaust upgrade, front and rear aluminum diffs, aluminum upgrade suspension, new Duracell rechargeable batteries, spare new 2 speed transmission and more. Search for HSP Flying Fish $220 upgrades. Selling about $150 below my cost. Comes with original box, instructions, etc. thanks!

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See below pictures for sale on Ebay brand new HSP Flying Fish (black GTR body) with over $200 in upgrades. Includes 2 sets of aluminum wheels, steering servo upgrade, exhaust upgrade, front and rear aluminum diffs, aluminum upgrade suspension, new Duracell rechargeable batteries, spare new 2 speed transmission and more. Search for HSP Flying Fish $220 upgrades. Selling about $150 below my cost. Comes with original box, instructions, etc. thanks!

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That's not a spare Flying Fish transmission, that's the reduction transmission for their monster truck, HSP #94188.

I sympathize with your desire to recoup your investment, but whether someone is just getting into nitro or an experienced collector, they are going to want to go through the adventure of choosing upgrades and building out the car themselves.

You're probably going to have to offer what you've got at half off retail price to get any buyers. Getting 50% of your money back is a good deal compared to $0 from selling nothing.

You'll have much more luck selling those things individually rather than bundling them into a smorgasborg of parts that someone is going to is only going to want 80% of, whatever they don't want lowers the value of the bundle to them because they see it as an unnecessary increase in cost.

Some of those things like the diff cases will probably sell on eBay pretty quickly, especially if you look up the other badges 94102 is sold under- list those as "Redcat Lightning STR Aluminum Diff cases" and you're more likely to sell them than as "HSP 94102 diff cases"

There's a sub-forum intended for posts like this, https://www.rctalk.com/forum/forums/for-sale-trade/
 
That's not a spare Flying Fish transmission, that's the reduction transmission for their monster truck, HSP #94188.

I sympathize with your desire to recoup your investment, but whether someone is just getting into nitro or an experienced collector, they are going to want to go through the adventure of choosing upgrades and building out the car themselves.

You're probably going to have to offer what you've got at half off retail price to get any buyers. Getting 50% of your money back is a good deal compared to $0 from selling nothing.

You'll have much more luck selling those things individually rather than bundling them into a smorgasborg of parts that someone is going to is only going to want 80% of, whatever they don't want lowers the value of the bundle to them because they see it as an unnecessary increase in cost.

Some of those things like the diff cases will probably sell on eBay pretty quickly, especially if you look up the other badges 94102 is sold under- list those as "Redcat Lightning STR Aluminum Diff cases" and you're more likely to sell them than as "HSP 94102 diff cases"

There's a sub-forum intended for posts like this, https://www.rctalk.com/forum/forums/for-sale-trade/
Thanks for your advice buddy. I ordered a transmission for 94102 just to have a spare and didn’t check to see if it was correct. You have a keen eye!
 
Thanks for your advice buddy. I ordered a transmission for 94102 just to have a spare and didn’t check to see if it was correct. You have a keen eye!

No worries.

It's worth noting that the aluminum hubs are also applicable to the electric model (HSP 94123), and there are a lot more of those out there, so you can broaden your potential buyer pool. In fact, one of diffs you've bought specifically has the electric-version driveshaft, (the longer one) which mounts a spur gear in the rear. The front one is the same for nitro and electric.
 
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