Flying Fish Nitro Upgrades

[Gman18]

Hello,

I have several Flying Fish Nitro 1/10th Road cars with the Vertex18 engine and wanted to know if there are improvements anyone has made such as better engine or better steering servos and what is recommended for that? I assume the aluminum upgrade kits won’t help a road car as it will just add weight. I don’t want to spend the money on a full race car as I am new and will likely crash an expensive car. Thanks!

 

[tudordewolf]

All of the above:

With a Thunder Tiger Evo-12, I was able to hit 50mph with one I built from a bare roller. Thread here.

I just finished one with an Sh.12 that I'm hoping will hit 60. I'm still breaking it in and was going to wait for more footage before posting, but since you've asked:

There are a few aluminum parts which are very worthwhile: the fuel tank cap, which has a better passage for the exhaust gases than the plastic one, and the diff cases, which allow you to shim the diffs for a very precise and smooth mesh.

I should be frank that engine swaps present several challenges.

For the Evo-12P swap, I had to drill out a flywheel from a 5mm bore to 6.25mm (1/4"), and cut down the engine mounts by 5mm so a bump box would reach the flywheel.

For the Sh.12 swap, I had to drill & tap holes in the engine mounts to scootch the engine forward by about 5mm to make the clutch and transmission gears line up. I had to find a small-block rear exhaust manifold that would work with an "inline" engine configuration, and make the throttle servo work with a slide carb instead of a rotary:

Everything clears everything else by millimeters, but I'm happy with how it went together.

There are a few engines that will swap right in - The Sh.18 is probably the cheapest and most immediate upgrade, but it won't really go any faster because it has the same max RPM as a VX-18. A TRX 3.3 or 2.5 can be fitted using Traxxas's multi-shaft crankshaft, which would be quite a sight. I've put one on HSP's monster truck chassis, which you can spy in my profile pic.

 

[Gman18]

Thank you! Your reply and pictures are VERY helpful for what I needed to know as I was interested in engine upgrades. For the SH12, did you use the HSP flywheel and clutch or does that need to be changed? Also, did you upgrade your steering Servo? Thanks and appreciate it!

 

[tudordewolf]

Thank you! Your reply and pictures are VERY helpful for what I needed to know as I was interested in engine upgrades. For the SH12, did you use the HSP flywheel and clutch or does that need to be changed? Also, did you upgrade your steering Servo? Thanks and appreciate it!

I used an HSP flywheel, but not the stock one - the 3-shoe one intended for their 1/8ths. I had to grind a bevel onto its edge to make it clear the carb.

Steering servo, same as throttle - PDI-4408MG. I edited / added to my original reply, see some of the notes / challenges about swaps at the bottom. The biggest challenge with the Sh.12 was customizing the engine mounts. I may be able to fix up a set for you if you're interested, just because I've amassed the tooling to do so...

Edit: Another engine that you could swap in - the K18. I've purchased one, it came in a Force/FC engine box, and has a recognizable FC crankcase. Appears to be a long-shaft Force.18 engine. This would drop in with no modifications to any parts.

 

[Gman18]

I used an HSP flywheel, but not the stock one - the 3-shoe one intended for their 1/8ths. I had to grind a bevel onto its edge to make it clear the carb.

Steering servo, same as throttle - PDI-4408MG. I edited / added to my original reply, see some of the notes / challenges about swaps at the bottom. The biggest challenge with the Sh.12 was customizing the engine mounts. I may be able to fix up a set for you if you're interested, just because I've amassed the tooling to do so...

Edit: Another engine that you could swap in - the K18. I've purchased one, it came in a Force/FC engine box, and has a recognizable FC crankcase. Appears to be a long-shaft Force.18 engine. This would drop in with no modifications to any parts.

I used an HSP flywheel, but not the stock one - the 3-shoe one intended for their 1/8ths. I had to grind a bevel onto its edge to make it clear the carb.

Steering servo, same as throttle - PDI-4408MG. I edited / added to my original reply, see some of the notes / challenges about swaps at the bottom. The biggest challenge with the Sh.12 was customizing the engine mounts. I may be able to fix up a set for you if you're interested, just because I've amassed the tooling to do so...

Edit: Another engine that you could swap in - the K18. I've purchased one, it came in a Force/FC engine box, and has a recognizable FC crankcase. Appears to be a long-shaft Force.18 engine. This would drop in with no modifications to any parts.

I just bought a K18 and will try it later when one of my stock engines breaks. I will look into the servos. Thanks for the advice!

 

[biggman100]

Hello,

I have several Flying Fish Nitro 1/10th Road cars with the Vertex18 engine and wanted to know if there are improvements anyone has made such as better engine or better steering servos and what is recommended for that? I assume the aluminum upgrade kits won’t help a road car as it will just add weight. I don’t want to spend the money on a full race car as I am new and will likely crash an expensive car. Thanks!

Most of the aluminum upgrades, except for what i listed down below, arent worth the money. Although i have never owned a nitro version, i have had enough variations of the HSP/Redcat/Exceed RC cars that i quickly figured out what did and didnt help them. Another upgrade to look into are the CVD shafts.

My list of necessary HSP upgrades:

CVD shafts: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251....0.0.7fe638day4eLuJ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Steering servo saver, rear hubs, steering blocks and C-hubs: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256....0.0.7fe638day4eLuJ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Gear box mount: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251....0.0.7fe638day4eLuJ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Front and rear complete gear box with aluminum housings: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805273407225.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.11.72e3c4baHv8xK8&algo_pvid=89fa00d4-2292-41b7-a76a-c2076a0636f8&algo_exp_id=89fa00d4-2292-41b7-a76a-c2076a0636f8-5&pdp_npi=3@dis!USD!48.33!29.0!!!!!@2102186a16880971454612461d077f!12000033167540986!sea!US!814124610&curPageLogUid=nwQ1eafiPqK5

This is a post i did on here awhile back about the HSP based electric cars, but, after converting several of the nitro cars to electric, there isnt much difference between the two (Exceed RC and Redcat Racing are also names they are sold under): https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/my-hsp-based-collection.133625/

EDIT: As for servo's i typically use these, in either 20 or 25KG, depending on if it is for on road or off road use: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2759219423...5KDtROh3vvCZdxw==|tkp:Bk9SR-LZmaehYg&LH_BIN=1

 

[fstnd]

I don't know much about the flying fish but I think they still come stock with a 90⁰ exhaust manifold? I'd recommend a smooth one, like this

 

[Gman18]

Most of the aluminum upgrades, except for what i listed down below, arent worth the money. Although i have never owned a nitro version, i have had enough variations of the HSP/Redcat/Exceed RC cars that i quickly figured out what did and didnt help them. Another upgrade to look into are the CVD shafts.

My list of necessary HSP upgrades:

CVD shafts: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251....0.0.7fe638day4eLuJ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Steering servo saver, rear hubs, steering blocks and C-hubs: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256....0.0.7fe638day4eLuJ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Gear box mount: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251....0.0.7fe638day4eLuJ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Front and rear complete gear box with aluminum housings: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805273407225.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.11.72e3c4baHv8xK8&algo_pvid=89fa00d4-2292-41b7-a76a-c2076a0636f8&algo_exp_id=89fa00d4-2292-41b7-a76a-c2076a0636f8-5&pdp_npi=3@dis!USD!48.33!29.0!!!!!@2102186a16880971454612461d077f!12000033167540986!sea!US!814124610&curPageLogUid=nwQ1eafiPqK5

This is a post i did on here awhile back about the HSP based electric cars, but, after converting several of the nitro cars to electric, there isnt much difference between the two (Exceed RC and Redcat Racing are also names they are sold under): https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/my-hsp-based-collection.133625/

EDIT: As for servo's i typically use these, in either 20 or 25KG, depending on if it is for on road or off road use: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275921942364?hash=item403e3ab75c:g:qM4AAOSwPqRkmXsm&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAAwH4HrQqNEtKji6T+FztzZIM9zH+yB/A/oJXyg8GWklKijOYbLQmOt7cvhNRf3tDhgfFVA0a6GanQUjTIFrxblpvDWeUYTzhy56pYgNKqUxi59VS9nrlyu5n6RjCd7vqvHdpeUsnSrTwwsl0yYONkJqWShN37GlNlP3AvKMk3n2qcLaiVt0B/66EryMeG4X6PSqsn1hepsDZxexI9qjqVouFG+Xl7fe2IlFVeOv0UiSQLuwyX37K5KDtROh3vvCZdxw==|tkp:Bk9SR-LZmaehYg&LH_BIN=1

Lots of great suggestions! I will order the parts tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[Gman18]

Most of the aluminum upgrades, except for what i listed down below, arent worth the money. Although i have never owned a nitro version, i have had enough variations of the HSP/Redcat/Exceed RC cars that i quickly figured out what did and didnt help them. Another upgrade to look into are the CVD shafts.

My list of necessary HSP upgrades:

CVD shafts: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251....0.0.7fe638day4eLuJ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Steering servo saver, rear hubs, steering blocks and C-hubs: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256....0.0.7fe638day4eLuJ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Gear box mount: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251....0.0.7fe638day4eLuJ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Front and rear complete gear box with aluminum housings: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805273407225.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.11.72e3c4baHv8xK8&algo_pvid=89fa00d4-2292-41b7-a76a-c2076a0636f8&algo_exp_id=89fa00d4-2292-41b7-a76a-c2076a0636f8-5&pdp_npi=3@dis!USD!48.33!29.0!!!!!@2102186a16880971454612461d077f!12000033167540986!sea!US!814124610&curPageLogUid=nwQ1eafiPqK5

This is a post i did on here awhile back about the HSP based electric cars, but, after converting several of the nitro cars to electric, there isnt much difference between the two (Exceed RC and Redcat Racing are also names they are sold under): https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/my-hsp-based-collection.133625/

EDIT: As for servo's i typically use these, in either 20 or 25KG, depending on if it is for on road or off road use: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275921942364?hash=item403e3ab75c:g:qM4AAOSwPqRkmXsm&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAAwH4HrQqNEtKji6T+FztzZIM9zH+yB/A/oJXyg8GWklKijOYbLQmOt7cvhNRf3tDhgfFVA0a6GanQUjTIFrxblpvDWeUYTzhy56pYgNKqUxi59VS9nrlyu5n6RjCd7vqvHdpeUsnSrTwwsl0yYONkJqWShN37GlNlP3AvKMk3n2qcLaiVt0B/66EryMeG4X6PSqsn1hepsDZxexI9qjqVouFG+Xl7fe2IlFVeOv0UiSQLuwyX37K5KDtROh3vvCZdxw==|tkp:Bk9SR-LZmaehYg&LH_BIN=1

For a road car, do I need high speed normal torque servos OR high speed and high torque? That is the only issue above my head in your suggestions. I appreciate your help!

 

[Gman18]

I don't know much about the flying fish but I think they still come stock with a 90⁰ exhaust manifold? I'd recommend a smooth one, like thisView attachment 168152

It is a 90 degree manifold. I will look for an upgrade!

 

[biggman100]

For a road car, do I need high speed normal torque servos OR high speed and high torque? That is the only issue above my head in your suggestions. I appreciate your help!

It all depends on what you are using it for. For a touring car, that isnt being raced, high speed and high torque may be a bit much, since it can cause it to slide and drift a lot more, but, for a drift car, then you will want the higher speed. The higher torque works best for off road cars. The way i typically do them, if it is a road car that is just being bashed, i stick with a 20KG, and, if it turns out to be too much, then i go to a 15KG, but, for anything off road, even a rally car based off the flying fish, then i use a 25KG, or, in some cases a 35KG. TBTH though, when it comes to servos, i typically do everything by testing and trial and error. The specs, at least to me, are just numbers that dont mean much, so, i have a few different servo's just so i can see what works in what vehicle, depending on how i use it. This BMW, for example, was set up for strictly on road touring, but not for racing, only bashing, and it had a 25KG servo in it:

With that servo in it, and even a mild brushless set up, it would easily drift with enough throttle. When i made that video, it had a ZD Racing chassis, but, the HSP chassis acts pretty similar in terms of handling and how it ran. This car though, is set up for on road touring, and is the electric version of the car you have, and now runs a 20KG servo, but i may drop it down to a 15KG, because it does slide still a bit more than i want it to, even brushed:

 

[tudordewolf]

For a road car, do I need high speed normal torque servos OR high speed and high torque? That is the only issue above my head in your suggestions. I appreciate your help!

For a road car, you don't need all that much torque. You're turning small wheels on pavement, not knobby truck tires in grass.

If the steering mechanism is slowing down the servo, it's probably binding up, and overpowering it with a stronger servo is just masking the issue. You should be able to freely move the steering with one finger if you disconnect the servo from it.

The servos in an onroad car shouldn't be facing enough resistance to restrict their motion, so the primary stat you'll be interested in is speed.

You definitely don't want excess torque in the throttle servo, where it could damage the carb, and you want to set the endpoints for both servos so that they stop on their own within the available range of motion - they should never stall in normal operation.

The bigger reason to upgrade out the included servos is reliability - I've had more than one die on me mid-tank, either because the plastic gears stripped, the potentiometer went bad, or the circuit board inside just gave up completely. If your throttle servo dies while the throttle is wide open, you've got a "runaway" on your hands which could wind up costing a lot more to repair.

Another factor separate from torque / speed is self-centering and dead-zone, how closely the servo is able follow the control signal you give it. You'll notice that with cheap servos, after a left turn, the car keeps drifting to the left, and after a right turn, it'll keep drifting to the right, no matter how much you try to adjust the steering trim. Nicer servos will "square up" to the same position every time you release the steering wheel.

 

[tudordewolf]

Lots of great suggestions! I will order the parts tomorrow. Thanks!

You may want to know that there are two versions of the Nito Flying fish. One is nearly identical to the electric version, with identical diff cases and C-link suspension arms, but there's an improved version with pivot-ball suspension that's a lot more durable and also has less play, and also a redesigned radio tray with more room.

The original, C-link version is #94102, and has an L-shaped radio tray.
The improved, pivot-ball version is #94122, and has a rectangular radio tray.

You'll need different diff cases and different CVD's depending on which one you have.

It's a mystery to me why HSP never applied the same upgrade to their electric models; it's a substantial improvement. I own one of the C-link ones and still run it, but all my original builds I've done on the pivot-ball roller.

 

[Gman18]

You may want to know that there are two versions of the Nito Flying fish. One is nearly identical to the electric version, with identical diff cases and C-link suspension arms, but there's an improved version with pivot-ball suspension that's a lot more durable and also has less play, and also a redesigned radio tray with more room.

The original, C-link version is #94102, and has an L-shaped radio tray.
The improved, pivot-ball version is #94122, and has a rectangular radio tray.

You'll need different diff cases and different CVD's depending on which one you have.

It's a mystery to me why HSP never applied the same upgrade to their electric models; it's a substantial improvement. I own one of the C-link ones and still run it, but all my original builds I've done on the pivot-ball roller.

Thanks for the additional info. I must have the 94102 as my radio tray is L shaped. Can I update my car’s suspension to the 94122 parts?

It all depends on what you are using it for. For a touring car, that isnt being raced, high speed and high torque may be a bit much, since it can cause it to slide and drift a lot more, but, for a drift car, then you will want the higher speed. The higher torque works best for off road cars. The way i typically do them, if it is a road car that is just being bashed, i stick with a 20KG, and, if it turns out to be too much, then i go to a 15KG, but, for anything off road, even a rally car based off the flying fish, then i use a 25KG, or, in some cases a 35KG. TBTH though, when it comes to servos, i typically do everything by testing and trial and error. The specs, at least to me, are just numbers that dont mean much, so, i have a few different servo's just so i can see what works in what vehicle, depending on how i use it. This BMW, for example, was set up for strictly on road touring, but not for racing, only bashing, and it had a 25KG servo in it:

With that servo in it, and even a mild brushless set up, it would easily drift with enough throttle. When i made that video, it had a ZD Racing chassis, but, the HSP chassis acts pretty similar in terms of handling and how it ran. This car though, is set up for on road touring, and is the electric version of the car you have, and now runs a 20KG servo, but i may drop it down to a 15KG, because it does slide still a bit more than i want it to, even brushed:
View attachment 168153

Thanks for the servo info! I don’t know much about servos and assume it will be a while before my skill level warrants upgrades?

You may want to know that there are two versions of the Nito Flying fish. One is nearly identical to the electric version, with identical diff cases and C-link suspension arms, but there's an improved version with pivot-ball suspension that's a lot more durable and also has less play, and also a redesigned radio tray with more room.

The original, C-link version is #94102, and has an L-shaped radio tray.
The improved, pivot-ball version is #94122, and has a rectangular radio tray.

You'll need different diff cases and different CVD's depending on which one you have.

It's a mystery to me why HSP never applied the same upgrade to their electric models; it's a substantial improvement. I own one of the C-link ones and still run it, but all my original builds I've done on the pivot-ball roller.

I assumed 94122 car’s suspension is for drifting? I don’t want a drift car, just a road car that handles well and isn’t too jittery. I appreciate your advice!

 

[Gman18]

You may want to know that there are two versions of the Nito Flying fish. One is nearly identical to the electric version, with identical diff cases and C-link suspension arms, but there's an improved version with pivot-ball suspension that's a lot more durable and also has less play, and also a redesigned radio tray with more room.

The original, C-link version is #94102, and has an L-shaped radio tray.
The improved, pivot-ball version is #94122, and has a rectangular radio tray.

You'll need different diff cases and different CVD's depending on which one you have.

It's a mystery to me why HSP never applied the same upgrade to their electric models; it's a substantial improvement. I own one of the C-link ones and still run it, but all my original builds I've done on the pivot-ball roller.

Thanks for the additional info. I must have the 94102 as my radio tray is L shaped. Can I update my car’s suspension to the 94122 parts?

Thanks for the servo info! I don’t know much about servos and assume it will be a while before my skill level warrants upgrades?

I assumed 94122 car’s suspension is for drifting? I don’t want a drift car, just a road car that handles well and isn’t too jittery. I appreciate your advice!

I researched a bit and see that the 94123 is the drift car and 94122 is the road car. Instead of trying to upgrade the 94102, I will get a partial 94122 chassis without the engine. Let me know if I’m on the right track. I can sell my almost new equipment on Ebay.

 

[biggman100]

I researched a bit and see that the 94123 is the drift car and 94122 is the road car. Instead of trying to upgrade the 94102, I will get a partial 94122 chassis without the engine. Let me know if I’m on the right track. I can sell my almost new equipment on Ebay.

The 94123 is the electric version of the 94102. The 94102 is a nitro drift car, and the 94122 is supposedly a touring car, but, drivetrain wise, the diff, inputs, clutch and spur gear are exactly the same. Except for the pivot ball set up, pretty much every other part is interchangeable (for example, the shocks are 70MM for both electric, and both nitro cars). This is the manual for the 94122: https://rc-today.ru/UserFiles/Image/Instructions/HSP 94188 Monster Truck .pdf
And, this one is for the 94102: https://dealer.redcatracing.com/manuals/94102-LightningSTRmanual.pdf

 

[tudordewolf]

I researched a bit and see that the 94123 is the drift car and 94122 is the road car. Instead of trying to upgrade the 94102, I will get a partial 94122 chassis without the engine. Let me know if I’m on the right track. I can sell my almost new equipment on Ebay.

I would recommend going with a partial 94122. Here's where I got mine for under $100, the ones on ebay are all jacked up 50% in price. I tried doing an up-conversion and it's just too many separate parts to order individually, and then assemble from an exploded view, to be worth it, and you'll also need a different chassis. May as well get the partial and just build it up, keep the original for fun. I still run mine.

Whether it runs like a drift car or touring car, depends on setup and tire choice. It has the weight distribution of a touring car, 45% front / 55% rear.

Some of the the advantages of 94122 with that regard are that you can adjust rear toe, while on 94102 it's fixed visibly inwards. The wheel bearings are spaced farther apart on the stub axles, resulting in much less "wobble", and the ball-and-socket suspension is tougher and has less play than the hinge-pin based one.

 

[Gman18]

The 94123 is the electric version of the 94102. The 94102 is a nitro drift car, and the 94122 is supposedly a touring car, but, drivetrain wise, the diff, inputs, clutch and spur gear are exactly the same. Except for the pivot ball set up, pretty much every other part is interchangeable (for example, the shocks are 70MM for both electric, and both nitro cars). This is the manual for the 94122: https://rc-today.ru/UserFiles/Image/Instructions/HSP 94188 Monster Truck .pdf
And, this one is for the 94102: https://dealer.redcatracing.com/manuals/94102-LightningSTRmanual.pdf

Thanks, again! Can someone tell me what the “pivot ball” set up is and how it is an improvement before I go buy one or more 94122 chassis and sell my 94102 cars? Is the frame the same except for servo box changed? The l shaped is a pain to put in batteries but not a big deal. Also, I am having trouble getting the motor to keep running after I remove the glow plug igniter. It runs and revs with the igniter in but dies instantly when I remove it. If the carb is too rich, I don’t know rich screw to turn and which direction to lean it out. Thanks, guys for all the advice. I really am learning a lot of useful info. I have rebuilt quite a few car engines when I was younger but had trouble with carbs. I have rebuilt a 340 Duster, 460 Lincoln Continental, Chevy Vega and Ford Mustang 5 liter. It’s been 25 years since I worked on my own cars. I had a desk job most of my life and recently retired. I loved RC cars as a kid so it was natural to go back to them! Don’t know what to think about electric cars though. High speed runs on You tube are awesome to watch.

 

[biggman100]

Thanks, again! Can someone tell me what the “pivot ball” set up is and how it is an improvement before I go buy one or more 94122 chassis and sell my 94102 cars? Is the frame the same except for servo box changed? The l shaped is a pain to put in batteries but not a big deal. Also, I am having trouble getting the motor to keep running after I remove the glow plug igniter. It runs and revs with the igniter in but dies instantly when I remove it. If the carb is too rich, I don’t know rich screw to turn and which direction to lean it out. Thanks, guys for all the advice. I really am learning a lot of useful info. I have rebuilt quite a few car engines when I was younger but had trouble with carbs. I have rebuilt a 340 Duster, 460 Lincoln Continental, Chevy Vega and Ford Mustang 5 liter. It’s been 25 years since I worked on my own cars. I had a desk job most of my life and recently retired. I loved RC cars as a kid so it was natural to go back to them! Don’t know what to think about electric cars though. High speed runs on You tube are awesome to watch.

The pivot ball suspension is supposed to make a car handle better, and is supposedly smoother to drive (disclaimer: i have never owned a pivot ball car of any kind). What i do know from the ones i have seen, they are harder to adjust, but, if done right, unless something breaks, they dont require as much readjustment as link type suspension and steering sometimes does. Pivot ball is also supposed to be stronger, but, from the few i have personally seen, I'm not sure i agree with that one. I do also know that they are more expensive when something does break. These are a couple examples of pivot ball (the one pic is pivot ball on top, and standard style on the bottom):

This should be what the setup on your car looks like:

Personally, i prefer the link style, but, that is because i am used to them, so, for me, they are extremely easy to adjust and set.

The l shaped is a pain to put in batteries but not a big deal. Also, I am having trouble getting the motor to keep running after I remove the glow plug igniter. It runs and revs with the igniter in but dies instantly when I remove it. If the carb is too rich, I don’t know rich screw to turn and which direction to lean it out. Don’t know what to think about electric cars though. High speed runs on You tube are awesome to watch.

Just my personal opinion here, but, this is exactly why i stick to electric. Faster, less messy, less aggravation (i hate tuning any type of carb, even on 1:1 cars), less expensive overall. Just charge a battery and go.

 

[Gman18]

Thanks, man. I appreciate the pics, too. The take away is maybe more control unless you hit something hard enough to break parts and then it will cost me more to fix it. I think I want to have both types so I will buy a 94122 chassis with no engine as I have a spare motor. I need to learn how to tune next! Thanks to all who replied!