abadk9420
Broke Down Driver
In Memoriam
Maybe it's the ignition switch, just a idea.
Sent from my Samsung Admire
Sent from my Samsung Admire
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Are you positive?
If it was the fusible link it would still start. You'd lose most of your electrical accessories, though.
If you had a blind spot on the starter armature you'd hear the click every time you turned the key, but the starter motor would not respond at all.
I'm willing to bet that you're dealing with a dead short in the starter motor and your solenoid is still fine.
The only other possibility I can think of is that the Bendix gear is jammed into the flywheel and can't get a running start before engaging. Just loosening the starter and moving it around will release it, if that's the case. An extra shim or two would correct that.
Nitro4910
Nitro Junkie!
Supporter
If I had to bet I would say from what you describe you have a bad cable or connection.
When you try to start it there is not enough of a connection to carry the load which shoots the resistance way up & you loose total power.
Light's & such don't really draw that much but trying to run the cranking motor puts massive load into the bad cable/connection.
Check both +&- cables & connections & look the cables over for any stretching & or bulging.
If you have a heavy set of jumper cables you can use them to bypass the regular cable to eliminate the cable/connection as the problem, if you bypass
a cable/connection & it fires over without power loss you have narrowed it down to that cable/connection.
Please post in normal font. Huge letters are hard to read and imply that you are shouting.
When you try to start it there is not enough of a connection to carry the load which shoots the resistance way up & you loose total power.
Light's & such don't really draw that much but trying to run the cranking motor puts massive load into the bad cable/connection.
Check both +&- cables & connections & look the cables over for any stretching & or bulging.
If you have a heavy set of jumper cables you can use them to bypass the regular cable to eliminate the cable/connection as the problem, if you bypass
a cable/connection & it fires over without power loss you have narrowed it down to that cable/connection.
Please post in normal font. Huge letters are hard to read and imply that you are shouting.
Last edited by a moderator:
slowngreen
Robmob is a Californian.
Staff member
Supporter
Excellence Award
- Thread starter
- #24
Yep, turned out to be the simplest thing. Brand new pos. connector wasn't working for crap for some reason, swapped it out for another and it fired right up.
WTF mechanics please look
In case anyone was wondering, the WTF stands for Willing Tractor Fixing mechanics.
In case anyone was wondering, the WTF stands for Willing Tractor Fixing mechanics.
Or like a woman looking under a car hood.... What's THAT for?
digger
Hardcore RCTalk User
That sounds like me with one of these newer cars.....
Used to be able to figure out how to make one run....
Then they got rid of points and went to electronic ignition. Was ok with part of that. The early computers really sucked. Now, if I break down, I'm lucky to open the hood to ask "whats that for?"
Who the hell was that?
SteelCityNitro
RCTalk Addict
Nevermind that, where are your pants?
