Some problems with my revo 2.5R

[erix920]

So what . is the 3.3? I know the 2.5r is .15.

So.. This is what it's came down to..

Exchange my 2.5 for a 3.3 for $135
OS 18TM for $215
Or a TZ for $200-300

I might as well wait until summer for a newer engine, no need to use a brand new engine in the snow anyway.

If I wanted to get other parts, what should I get? A-Arms, Toe links, Exhaust pipes? What would you guys recommend getting before any others?

 

[jetmechG550]

the 3.3 is a .20, still considered small block. Kind of a mid block. The TM comes with the adapter for sneazy start or pull start, etc, the TZ requires the crank to be cut, which is no big thing. You can also run a TZ with a TM crank I beleive. Here's something to consider with the OS choices, the cost of a new piston/sleeve/rod combo. It's cheaper for the TZ, plus I think you can find the TZ cheaper than what you have there. Depending where you are located you may find a hobby shop that does the exchange. Here, one of the Hobbytowns will do it for you and you can walk out the door with a new 3.3. Replace things as a they break but, IMO, you can't go wrong with RPM arms. The Tubez are decent if you want to lighten up a little but the red pushrods are garbage, go Lunsford for those.

 

[erix920]

What about the big block I talked about previously?

Would I get better performance with that one?
Or better with a lighter small block?

http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=2958

Also, if I get a bigger engine should I get a longer body, like the 3.3?

 

[jetmechG550]

The gearing in the Revo (mainly the difs) most likely won't hold up well with that mill. Also it's way over powered and will be difficult to control. The RB 523 is almost too much. Stick with a small block. Why would you need a longer body for a bigger mill?

 

[erix920]

Well I don't know, I was going to spend like 250$ next year on new engine and parts, since I don't need any more parts really I was going to get a powerful well made engine.

Since you guys say it's way to over powered then I guess i'll stick with the smaller engines. If it's better than a 3.3 and cheaper than 200$ then that would be great. If not, I guess i'll goto the 3.3, not saying it's bad or anything, but i'm sure theres better engines out there.

 

[vbgagnon]

If you want something superpowerful go with the rb 523. Its just over $200 and its stupid powerful.

 

[jetmechG550]

If you want something superpowerful go with the rb 523. Its just over $200 and its stupid powerful.

+1 on that, just be aware that a p/s ain't cheap.

 

[erix920]

Well, I don't need anything "Superpowerful", just something better than my little .15 2.5r. I race against Jato's, Savage X SS's and Revo 3.3's. All of which are obviously faster in acceleration and top speed.

Pretty much an engine that wont cause transmission problems, and something that doesn't pull wheelies when you go WOT, even tohugh you could probably get a limiter for wheelie problems.

 

[jetmechG550]

Well, your "little 2.5" will hold it's own against a Savage, especially since the Revo is set up to race. Jato's against a Revo? Different classes. Food for thought, it's not just a powerful mill that will bring you the win in the A main, setup and driver have a lot more to do with it

 

[erix920]

Point well taken, well, i'll have to see how my 2.5 is after winter is over, I have a feeling there's going to be alot long days then :/.

By any chance, is there any place that ships traxxas 33% nitro gas for 35$ including shipping and the gas? Becasue I have to drive about 30 minutes to buy gas currently, so the price of car gas and nitro gas isen't worth it.

 

[vbgagnon]

In order for a company to ship they usually sell it by the case. Because you have to pay hazmat charges when shipping fuel.

 

[jetmechG550]

Shipping fuel is a major pain in the rears. As VB said it's a HAZMAT, so that is where most of the cost of the stuff comes in anyway. If you have a lhs closer you can switch fuels. If not, buy more than one gallon at a time. I'm going to be switching once I use what I have, we get a deal on Byron's so I'll be using it.

 

[SMaxxin]

Food for thought, it's not just a powerful mill that will bring you the win in the A main, setup and driver have a lot more to do with it

IMO this is the best advise that can be given to anyone trying to race, I showed up with my Revo 3.3 and got my ass handed to me by a 2.5 T Maxx. To make things worst the Maxx was almost stock.

 

[erix920]

Yeah, I suppose your right, one of the pro's there had a old Savage and beat me .

But I still have this weird problem with shifting, it like.. makes a low shifting noise, but you tighten the poop out of the spur gear it makes a VERY noticable shifting noise. Now, when you hit second if seems like the RPM's fly down.. Is my spur gear too loose? Am I running too rich?

 

[jetmechG550]

remember grasshopper, very small adjustments... As I told my employer one time as we were flying around on his $45million airplane nothing works when you squeeze the poop out of it...so holds true for tightening the poop out of it. 1/8th turn increments as well when adjusting the shift point inside the tranny.

 

[erix920]

Yeah, I know, I tightned it a little bit after installing springs in between my brake pads and shavin down those stopper things for the steering.

 

[erix920]

Well, my gas tank is done, that little O-ring is like, disinegrated..

What's the best one to get, how about a 200cc one?

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Why not just replace the O-ring? No sense spending money on a whole new tank when you just need the O-ring.

Just my opinion.

 

[erix920]

Okay, I was thinking that the tank wasn't very strong, but where can I get an O-ring?

 

[jetmechG550]

#5362 is the part number for the Traxxas o-ring kits for the fuel tank. You"ll get two of the new orange ones in there.