Traxxas Revo 2.5 rebuild

[HDRIDER56]

I'm new to the nitro RC trucks and cars. My last gas RC car was attached to a string with two spikes to keep it going straight, back wheel spin started it. (Yes I'm showing my AGE lmao)
I wad recently given a Traxxas Revo 2.5, it needs a few parts to get it going again.
1st I wanted 5o mentioned I kind of started this on the welcome page, didn't want to use that post for too many how to replies so I am continuing it here.
1st I need to know where can I get a basic eng rebuild kit, it's torn down and for the most part it seems decent for sitting who knows how long. I did have to get the engine unfrozen, wasn't that bad. The internal bearings need replaced, new Orings, everything else seems to be okay engine wise.
Second thing I need is to replace the receiver and antenna die to the wire missing. There's other items I want to upgrade later, right now I'm just wanting to get it running. Any suggestions or helpful links to where I can get parts for this since it's older would b3 greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

[STONER RC]

I'm new to the nitro RC trucks and cars. My last gas RC car was attached to a string with two spikes to keep it going straight, back wheel spin started it. (Yes I'm showing my AGE lmao)
I wad recently given a Traxxas Revo 2.5, it needs a few parts to get it going again.
1st I wanted 5o mentioned I kind of started this on the welcome page, didn't want to use that post for too many how to replies so I am continuing it here.
1st I need to know where can I get a basic eng rebuild kit, it's torn down and for the most part it seems decent for sitting who knows how long. I did have to get the engine unfrozen, wasn't that bad. The internal bearings need replaced, new Orings, everything else seems to be okay engine wise.
Second thing I need is to replace the receiver and antenna die to the wire missing. There's other items I want to upgrade later, right now I'm just wanting to get it running. Any suggestions or helpful links to where I can get parts for this since it's older would b3 greatly appreciated.
Thanks

What's up man we're you able to find and get the parts you need? Did you happen to get Revo running already?

The engine probably just needs a really good cleaning. They don't really make rebuild kits for Nitro engines. They usually last a long time if taken care of properly.

They don't really seize up. They get gummed up from the nitro fuel gelling over time. And stops the lifting rod and piston from Turning over. All you need to do is heat it up with heat gun. And it will start to move again.

You can get new bearings. If the front bearing is truly shot. But most likely it's just gummed up from the nitro fuel. Amd just needs to be cleaned really good..

 

[HDRIDER56]

What's up man we're you able to find and get the parts you need? Did you happen to get Revo running already?

The engine probably just needs a really good cleaning. They don't really make rebuild kits for Nitro engines. They usually last a long time if taken care of properly.

They don't really seize up. They get gummed up from the nitro fuel gelling over time. And stops the lifting rod and piston from Turning over. All you need to do is heat it up with heat gun. And it will start to move again.

You can get new bearings. If the front bearing is truly shot. But most likely it's just gummed up from the nitro fuel. Amd just needs to be cleaned really good..

I got almost everything I needed except for the bearings, I questioned them from the start but once I got then oiled up they seemed okay. Then when I did good soak and clean I could feel and see how bad they are. I'm not too worried about not being able to find a set or two. It looks like the preferred method to replace them is to heat up the engine case and tap them out.
I'm still fighting this new receiver to get throttle control, I did realize something, on the original one the first spot was B for the battery connection, then I have 1 thru 4. On the new one it just has 1 thru 6, 1 & 2 are supposed to be your throttle and steering. I need to see where the battery plug is supposed to plug in. You also mentioned I might need to do a throttle calibration, how do I do that?

 

[HDRIDER56]

Where is a good place to look for new tires and rims?

 

[Alex_G]

STONER RC, can i assume, that i really must have bad luck to get used NITRO car with totaly damaged engine?

Thano you,
Alex_G

 

[STONER RC]

STONER RC, can i assume, that i really must have bad luck to get used NITRO car with totaly damaged engine?

Thano you,
Alex_G

Whats up bud. It's not bad luck. Sorry late response had to work today. Why do you say that. Alot of nitro are mistaken for damaged and really just gummed up from sitting around for so long or even just a month... you can't hit up we can talk will help you out see we can't figure out what's going on..

I got almost everything I needed except for the bearings, I questioned them from the start but once I got then oiled up they seemed okay. Then when I did good soak and clean I could feel and see how bad they are. I'm not too worried about not being able to find a set or two. It looks like the preferred method to replace them is to heat up the engine case and tap them out.
I'm still fighting this new receiver to get throttle control, I did realize something, on the original one the first spot was B for the battery connection, then I have 1 thru 4. On the new one it just has 1 thru 6, 1 & 2 are supposed to be your throttle and steering. I need to see where the battery plug is supposed to plug in. You also mentioned I might need to do a throttle calibration, how do I do that?

Whats up bud. So if your reciver only has 1-6 it shouldn't matter where you plug in the battery pack. Traxxas has the bat. And some have bind/bat.

The reciver doesn't really matter where the power comes from. When it comes to nitro's. Only the the steering is in Channel #1. And the throttle servo goes in channel #2.

Whats the type of transmitter you have again. I want to look it up. And your using a reciver that goes with it. It should calibrate with the binding of the TX and RX.

 

[HDRIDER56]

Whats up bud. It's not bad luck. Sorry late response had to work today. Why do you say that. Alot of nitro are mistaken for damaged and really just gummed up from sitting around for so long or even just a month... you can't hit up we can talk will help you out see we can't figure out what's going on..

Whats up bud. So if your reciver only has 1-6 it shouldn't matter where you plug in the battery pack. Traxxas has the bat. And some have bind/bat.

The reciver doesn't really matter where the power comes from. When it comes to nitro's. Only the the steering is in Channel #1. And the throttle servo goes in channel #2.

Whats the type of transmitter you have again. I want to look it up. And your using a reciver that goes with it. It should calibrate with the binding of the TX and RX.

I ordered the Dumborc remote, I did get the throttle to respond. I have a question. The Traxxas remote that came with with it has the shift button on it. The new remote does not. How will I shift it when running

 

[STONER RC]

I ordered the Dumborc remote, I did get the throttle to respond. I have a question. The Traxxas remote that came with with it has the shift button on it. The new remote does not. How will I shift it when running

Your talking about the reverse switch?
Can throw that servo into a different channel if your radio permits that. how many channels does the new radio have. At least 3?

 

[HDRIDER56]

Whats up bud. It's not bad luck. Sorry late response had to work today. Why do you say that. Alot of nitro are mistaken for damaged and really just gummed up from sitting around for so long or even just a month... you can't hit up we can talk will help you out see we can't figure out what's going on..

Whats up bud. So if your reciver only has 1-6 it shouldn't matter where you plug in the battery pack. Traxxas has the bat. And some have bind/bat.

The reciver doesn't really matter where the power comes from. When it comes to nitro's. Only the the steering is in Channel #1. And the throttle servo goes in channel #2.

Whats the type of transmitter you have again. I want to look it up. And your using a reciver that goes with it. It should calibrate with the binding of the TX and RX.

What's been happening, been gone for a minute or two, back now, almost finished with this restore, can you tell me what this MIP part is, What's it for and how the hell do I hook it up?
I read in another post that you said not to use Traxxas top fuel? I purchased VP racing fuel for my 1st gallon, it was the only fuel the hobby shop had on the shelf. I got my Jato running, it ran fine for the few minutes this non driving RC driver ran it. Lol

 

[Grizz03]

The line hooks up here:

The MIP boost bottle was something that was supposed to improve the performance by doing something with the vacuum pulses of the engine. I think they were more of a gimmick. I don't know much about them as they came about before the 3.3 engines.

 

[HDRIDER56]

The line hooks up here:
View attachment 181603

The MIP boost bottle was something that was supposed to improve the performance by doing something with the vacuum pulses of the engine. I think they were more of a gimmick. I don't know much about them as they came about before the 3.3 engines.

So what's the concept on how this is supposed to work? The boost bottle doesn't really look like it does anything, no air movement sucking or blowing.

 

[Grizz03]

So what's the concept on how this is supposed to work? The boost bottle doesn't really look like it does anything, no air movement sucking or blowing.

From what I gather is that they hold a fuel/air charge for the next stroke.

This is what the advertisement said "MIP Boost Bottle Kits increase your .12 or .18 gas engine's bottom end acceleration while making the power band more constant than ever before. Boost bottle kit fits .12 O.S., CV, CZ, Dynamite, Thunder Tiger, Traxxas and just about all other .12-.18 engines."

 

[HDRIDER56]

From what I gather is that they hold a fuel/air charge for the next stroke.

This is what the advertisement said "MIP Boost Bottle Kits increase your .12 or .18 gas engine's bottom end acceleration while making the power band more constant than ever before. Boost bottle kit fits .12 O.S., CV, CZ, Dynamite, Thunder Tiger, Traxxas and just about all other .12-.18 engines."

Wow you found alot more info then I did. Then again I've never been a engine builder. Let me go do some homework
Thanks

From what I gather is that they hold a fuel/air charge for the next stroke.

This is what the advertisement said "MIP Boost Bottle Kits increase your .12 or .18 gas engine's bottom end acceleration while making the power band more constant than ever before. Boost bottle kit fits .12 O.S., CV, CZ, Dynamite, Thunder Tiger, Traxxas and just about all other .12-.18 engines."

Kinda looks like it's more of a decoration on your RC versus actually doing anything noticeable going by this post. I'll try it with qbd without and see if there's any noticeable changes
https://www.rctech.net/forum/rookie-zone/120364-boost-bottles.html

 

[HDRIDER56]

And she lives, needs tuning, but hey she fired up once I got the fuel flowing to the engine

 

[Chubaka]

And she lives, needs tuning, but hey she fired up once I got the fuel flowing to the engine

These nitros are like old school diesels. Let them sit and they will start. Might need to break the seal the from the fuel gumming up.

If you want nitrous, talk to this guy and copy what he did!

https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-scramble-button-setup.139887/#post-1404833

 

[HDRIDER56]

I took a video, I can't get it to upload for some reason. Anyway it's shooting a lot of fuel out the exhaust. I set the carb to the factory settings, 4-1/2 turns on the HSJ, LSJ flush with the
AWE just seen one problem, only supposed to go 4 not 4-1/2 turns on the HSJ. My idle opening gap is set to 1mm. At least the closest I can get it without having a true 1mm gap gauge

 

[easy rider]

You are going to be extremely rich. If the motor has been broke in, set it to 4 out, then lean it about 25 minutes. Flush the low speed.

This will be on the rich side still on the hsp. Once you get the hsn set, with an idle gap of 1mm, if the idle is high, adjust it with the idle screw. Not the lsn.

Personally, once I set the hsn, I’d run 1-1.5 tanks through it without adjusting the low end of the motor. As long as it will idle and it’s not so lean it moves on its own. If it’s set that long, it might take a couple tanks before it settles in good if the motor wasn’t taken apart and cleaned well before reviving it.

 

[HDRIDER56]

You are going to be extremely rich. If the motor has been broke in, set it to 4 out, then lean it about 25 minutes. Flush the low speed.

This will be on the rich side still on the hsp. Once you get the hsn set, with an idle gap of 1mm, if the idle is high, adjust it with the idle screw. Not the lsn.

Personally, once I set the hsn, I’d run 1-1.5 tanks through it without adjusting the low end of the motor. As long as it will idle and it’s not so lean it moves on its own. If it’s set that long, it might take a couple tanks before it settles in good if the motor wasn’t taken apart and cleaned well before reviving it.

I rebuilt the motor with all new parts except for the piston and sleeve, didn't see any bad wear marks on them.
What would keep my EZ start remote from turning the engine over? I just charged the car and remote batteries I know those are okay, all my wires look okay. Bad coil possibly?

 

[easy rider]

I’m not sure 100% which will apply. But, I’ll address what I’ve experienced.

If it’s starting the turn over and just doesn’t have the unp, it’s a battery or seriously flooded motor.

If it doesn’t do anything, it’s either your harness, your ground is loose, or the starter motor is bad. I had a wand go bad too.

Check your connectors in the female harness end. I had one harness that the connector had broke loose. And I’m was pushing it out of the way instead on making contact.

I’m not the guy to discuss fixing something like a starter motor. You can buy the whole setup including the harness for $20. So, I usually put a new one on every build for ease when breaking in. And, I’ve learned there’s no sense in parting them out.

I feel your pain. I put a whole new set up on my revo. Run about 2.5 quarts through it and it stopped working.

 

[HDRIDER56]

I’m not sure 100% which will apply. But, I’ll address what I’ve experienced.

If it’s starting the turn over and just doesn’t have the unp, it’s a battery or seriously flooded motor.

If it doesn’t do anything, it’s either your harness, your ground is loose, or the starter motor is bad. I had a wand go bad too.

Check your connectors in the female harness end. I had one harness that the connector had broke loose. And I’m was pushing it out of the way instead on making contact.

I’m not the guy to discuss fixing something like a starter motor. You can buy the whole setup including the harness for $20. So, I usually put a new one on every build for ease when breaking in. And, I’ve learned there’s no sense in parting them out.

I feel your pain. I put a whole new set up on my revo. Run about 2.5 quarts through it and it stopped working.

It was working fine yesterday and now nothing, notta, copoot. I did find the black wire terminal pushed back up into the remote, it didn't solve anything when I got it pushed back out. I did work the starter motor pretty hard the other day trying to get it to idle without dying every time I let off the throttle. Let me try swapping it out, I happen to have a backup on my Jato. Already checked my connections and the ground wire at the motor, everything looks good. I'm not getting either light on the remote when it's pushed into the connector if that helps any?
Thanks for the info