"Pushing" during cornering

[DuckStang]

Hey guys, I need some help with my D8t. I currently run 10-10-5 diff fluids. The problem I have with it now is that the trug pushes in the corners when on power. I am talking about 1/16 power here. Barely on the throttle trigger. When not on power, I swear this bitch can turn in it's own radius. Will thinning out my front fluid give me the on-power turn in I am looking for??? I have to drive this thing wayyyy to hard in the corner and hope that the speed carries me through. Everyone at the track is looking at me like I have a death wish towards the truggy, which is not the case. I am looking for your experiences here as I am new to this truggy thing.

 

[beason]

lighter in the front may help, but 10 is pretty light. can you move any weight forward? you sure you put 5k and not 50k in the rear? just askin.

 

[neobart]

Lighter in the front will only make it worse, try going up to 15 or 20K in the center. Going to a thicker front sway bar and/or thicker rear sway bar will also help.

Just remember to only do one change at a time, otherwise you won't know what worked.

If that doesn't give you enough you can increase anti-squat and increase the wheel base.

 

[MotoGod]

I run 7-10-5 in my XRay Truggy. I had pushing issues when I first got the Truggy....the problem was too weak of a steering servo. I tossed a 9100T in there..steering issues went away. So check your servo strength...and make sure the tires you are running are good for whatever track/surface you are running on.

 

[neobart]

Oh yeah, tires is the most important part. I always forget that part. lol

You'd think I would've learned by now.

 

[Scrogg]

Tighten the servo saver up. Very little to no preload on the sway bars. I run 7/10/5 on hard pack, 7/10/3 on rough looser tracks.
Add some more anti-squat if you can. 2.5 degrees of rear toe in is plenty for most truggies. 3 degrees anti squat in the rear too.
Plus the servo and tires.

 

[DuckStang]

Thanks guys. I will try to tighten up the steering servo saver a bit. I have read some other posts on the d8t and it seems like they are pretty loose from the factory. I am running a jr 8711 on the steering, 400oz/in is PLENTY to turn those wheels. I did a little testing today, changed the springs in the front to a little softer, it helped a whole lot. I will thin out the front diff oil as everyone says it's a little to thick.

And Beason, I did check to make sure it was 5k not 50. Hehe, you had me questioning myself.

 

[Brushlessboy]

On power cornering in truggy is a myth. They will always push on power no matter what the viscosities are. I run 7,7,7 in the RC8T and wouldn't go any heavier.
I realise I am running clay here in Oz and your dirt in the USA might alter the handling but any higher than 10k in the centre to me is just silly.
It will give you more drive to the front which of course allows the front to pull, however will lower your turning abilities.
If you're running on dirt try something along the lines of 8,7, and if you like twitchy 7 in the rear too, or stay with 5 if you like it tamer.
The good thing about 7 in the rear is it will rotate in the corners better.
The trick to fast cornering in the truggy on dirt is to set your brakes at maybe 70% rear 30% front and have them set light, (not much braking) then just make sure you break hard into the corner, hit the apex, straighten up BEFORE throttling up. It sounds like driving 101 but it is hard to do everytime......

 

[DuckStang]

I feel like such a dumb ass. I did some reading, checked a few forums. Rebuilt the front shocks and set them to 1/2 rebound. OMG what a difference. Trug will turn like no other. Thanks for your help.

 

[Plaidfish]

On power cornering in truggy is a myth. They will always push on power no matter what the viscosities are.

I have to disagree with this...you can tune any handling deficiency in your rig..I personally like a loose super soft suspension, especially for racing...you may loose more power on take off but if you can hold a line at speed it drives a lot smoother....as far as on power oversteer I try changing the camber / toe settings on my rig....reduce the +toe on the frot and usually set the rear at just less than 0.....I like 5-7-1 in any 3 diff setup (buggy / truggy).... if the track is a softer surface I run a little thicker in the rear to give me more push on straight but it does affect the steer push.....loads of settings you can try to tune the oversteer push out of your rig.....

 

[Brushlessboy]

I have to disagree with this...you can tune any handling deficiency in your rig..I personally like a loose super soft suspension, especially for racing...you may loose more power on take off but if you can hold a line at speed it drives a lot smoother....as far as on power oversteer I try changing the camber / toe settings on my rig....reduce the +toe on the frot and usually set the rear at just less than 0.....I like 5-7-1 in any 3 diff setup (buggy / truggy).... if the track is a softer surface I run a little thicker in the rear to give me more push on straight but it does affect the steer push.....loads of settings you can try to tune the oversteer push out of your rig.....

Gee with 1 in the rear it'll jump out of the corner like a 6 cyl Caddillac. lol
Yes you can help the pushing a little however trying to steer through a corner on power, (unless its very wide or not really a corner) is the slow way to turn.
Also your dirt over there must be a lot different to our clay tracks. No one is Oz uses heavier oil in the centre than the front, yet I see it popping up all the time in these threads.
I'll head over there one day and see what you guys are on about...

 

[Eman]

Power on understeer is caused by the weight transferring to the rear. Adjusting the rear anti squat, shocks, springs and diffs until a you get a comfortable, controllable amount of throttle on oversteer.