HPI-Killers AE MGT 4.6 & LRP .32 MGT Thread

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Very nice for everything stock, wish my stock 4.6 .21 ran that good. :hehe:

Also i too prefer the rear exhaust, gotta mount that second tank somewhere.:coffee:
 
Haha just the luck I am used to with nitros, it must of beem hibernating until today... After wrecking my NTC3 and putting it out of comission for awhile I decided to vent with some MGT #2 bashing. Start it up and realize it isnt responding to my tuning and idle adjustments.. So I run it up my driveway amd back then I hear a sudden "clunk" noise, then dies immediatly... So I try to start it again and it wont even turn over, acting like its flooded I remove the plug and attempt to turn-drain the fuel out. When the mill still doesn't turn over I realize there is a serious problem. Take it to my ER bench and pull the mill out amd start tearing down searching for the issue/s. As I am removing the back plate I hear I rattle within it amd know exactly what it is. A broken con rod yayy, now tearing the mill 100% down minus carb removal for a delux cleaning and inspection to prep for a resleeving. The sleeve apears un damaged but arent sure if microscopicle markings can and will affect anything after its back together.

Do I need to remove the carb and clean it? Not sure if debris can get inside.
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Since you have it apart anyhow I would clean everything. Man I have never broke a rod on any BB mill that sucks bro! From the look of that cool head I would say she has seen some serious use though.
 
Haha actually that cooling head damage was one jump with a cartwheeling flare and a road rash finish haha!! I took the screw out of the thingy holding the carb secure, but the actual female part of the part is still stuck, I dont want to tap on it to pop it loose in fear of breaking or damaging something beyond whats done. How do I get this PITA out?!?!
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I'm not 100% sure on this one. Should just have to remove the carb pinch bolt and work the carb from left to right and it should wriggle itself loose bro!
 
That female shaft has a notch the same shape as the carb neck, with the nut loose you want to wiggle the carb and pull up.....if you have pushed hard on that shaft trying to remove it you might have to tap it in the opposite direction that you have been pushing, that notch needs to be lined up with the carb neck. The carb should come off, once the carb is out then you can remove the female shaft. When you put it back together the shaft has to go in before the carb.
 
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That female shaft has a notch the same shape as the carb neck, with the nut loose you want to wiggle the carb and pull up. The carb should come off, once the carb is out then you can remove the female shaft.

Thats what I thought, I assumed the same setup as every other nitro but have never seen an allen screw its always a nut. Thanks Pete
 
That female shaft has a notch the same shape as the carb neck, with the nut loose you want to wiggle the carb and pull up. The carb should come off, once the carb is out then you can remove the female shaft. When you put it back together the shaft has to go in before the carb.

My carb popped right out after removing the carb pinch bolt I didn't have to remove the shaft at all it just separated enough to let the carb come loose. Of coarse knowing AE they prob had several diff styles of carbs on there engines. They like to be different LOL!
 
It's not nessesary to remove the shaft but he asked how to do it so I figured I would attempt to explain :D
 
Well while I wait for my new parts to arrive for #2 I saw a perfect op to tear down the front and rear diffs and give them a thurough Rolex'n, then follow that with the rest of the rig. Might even pull the trans apart tonight we shall see how energetic I am...

Starting with the rear diff area since it sees more dirt and grime than the front..
Yummy!
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All clean! Decided against opening the diffs internals just because everything sounded great and 100% rotation on all 3 points with no binding or grinding of any sort. Now to reassemble and move forward!!
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I might also take this op to pull the shocks off and give them a lookover and cleaning, might as well go all out yeah!?
 
Like I expected the front is uber clean comparing to the rear... a bit dirty but not bad. Potato phone joy, I hate updating my builds with lousy phone pics...
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Nice bro! You know I have yet to have a major diff issue like a lot of people say they have had with the MGT. I am up to 4 gallons through my basher rig and have had the diffs open for inspection and everything looked really good still. Maybe I have just been lucky LOL! Did you get your carb off yet?
 
Thanks man I enjoyed it. Because for me anyways getting my hands knuckle deep in RC filth to clean, repair or upgrade is the only way I learn, and have an awesome time doing it too!! Sure sure my RCNT family here helps, but they instruct me on a starting point and help me understand it 100%!!

Yeah it was stuck stuck stuck then it just popped loose... Glad I decided to pull it and clean it, boy was there debris in her!!...
 
Lol come on Ralph there has to be something, I know you have a whopping 5lb tub of some crazy Billy Mayes cleaner :hehe:.

What else can I do to thos thing while I twiddle my thumbs? Lol I'm bored, maybe ill switch my RPM arms from #1 over to her, juuust mayybe
 
Deciding if I want to just upgrade #2s mill by getting this LRP beast!

Thoughts?

LRP ZR.32X Spec. 2 Nitro Competition Engine with Pull Starter.
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I think I am going to marry the mgt to the LRP unless.someone has any objections to it.. Also what gearing changes am I going to need to make for the new powerplant?
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On the #1 side of things, I am putting #2s pullstart unit on it and seeing if I can't get it to fire up, hope I can she needs some fresh air!!
 
I've been giving some serious thought to that .32 in the Bling Thing Savvy. If you do it, let me know what you think of it. I've only heard good things, but the color would clash with my current scheme. :hehe:
 

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