Engine question

[Greywolf74]

Sorry not familiar with after market engines because with the exception of one the Ten T I bought off of eBay (which I havent had a chance to run yet) I've never used anything but stock engines so far. What is the difference between a LRP .28 spec 2 and a spec 3? Are there other specs? (The Ten T I bought was brand new. The guy bought a Ten T took the stock motor and the ROSS out because it sucks sold em off on eBay, then bought an OS .21 engine with a pull start on it, installed it, and then got in a bind for money and sold it before he ever got a chance to run it. Picked it up for 315 bucks. I really wanted an 8ight T but I couldn't pass up suck a great deal. Not a single solitary scratch on it, not even on the chassis, and not a spec of dust or dirt either.)

I've often heard people talk about the LRP .28's they seem to be highly regarded engines. I've also heard that the Losi .28 that is used for the XXL and the 8ight Truggy are just re-badged LRPs. Is this true and if so what spec LRP .28 is it?

If you're just bashing are the after market engines worth buying over the stock engines or are the after markets more for racers? So far I've been pretty happy with my stock engines. Even my Dynamite mach .26 from my LST2 which I've had more than one person tell me its a crappy engine but it seems to be a great to me. It seems to have plenty of power and I'm going on about 7 or 8 gallons of fuel through it now and its still going strong. IDK maybe its just because I haven't really experienced the after market engines and that why the stock engines seem great to me?

Anyone care to answer these questions and give me their opinions on the rest of it? I'm curious to know.

Thx

 

[2revo1maxx]

The website doesn't list a spec 2 anymore, so I'd say the spec 3 has replaced it. It says a few things have been optimized.

 

[olds97_lss]

I don't remember the spec, but considering the price on it vs the real LRP28S3, I'd go for the real one. It was listed as the spec 2 for a while as mentioned, but until you have both, tear them apart and look at their porting/machining, it's iffy. The XXL 454's seemed to have more mfr'ing issues with them causing them to not run right or hold a tune properly. At least when the XXL first came out with it, were a lot of threads with people having issues with them.

The mach 26 wasn't a bad engine, is fairly similar to the 427 line that Dynamite was putting out. I'm actually trying to find one for my revo... the LRP is just too much for that truck. lol

I can honestly say that the 427 (which is a bit more stout than your 26) doesn't hold a candle to the LRP28S3. I used to bash with 2 guys that had LST2's with the 427 in them, one other guy had the 427 grey head which had a different carb and I think may have had different porting to get higher RPM's. Still walked all over it with my LRP in my aftershock.

I only go "aftermarket" because I rarely buy new vehicles. I buy used most of the time. I think I've had 15+ RC's over the years, 3 or 4 were new when I got them. Usually, when I buy, I buy as a roller or the engine has issues and I end up getting a different engine anyway.

The LRP's aren't the best out there, but they are pretty good for the $. Long life, plenty of power, decent torque and fairly easy to tune. A bit tough to break-in and they don't have great fuel economy, but those things didn't stop me from buying a 2nd for my savage.

All that said, for an LST2 with stock sized wheels, I'd get the LRP30.

The LRP28 has legs, but the 30 has serious torque.

I ran revo sized wheels/tires with +2 gearing (over LST2) and mine screamed. Stock gearing (LST2 gearing) was just a wheelie machine with revo wheels/tires. With +2, it was silly fast and could still pull a wheelie easy in 1st gear. 2nd gear wheelies went away though. With the huge ATX tires on the LST2, I didn't like it in general with the LRP28. Was definitely a different truck with those tires on it, and not for the better. I bought a set with the thought that I'd run them in the winter, but I didn't like how sluggish they made the truck.

 

[2revo1maxx]

Go for the .32!

 

[Phins Fan]

I'd say go for the .32 as well! Dont think you can go wrong with too much power and rpm's!

 

[Greywolf74]

So, I didn't exactly understand what you said at the beginning. Where you saying the 454 was a re-badged LRP you just don't remember what spec of LRP? Sorry it starts out kind of confusing. If that's what you were saying then you are saying for the cost difference go for the real LRP instead of the 454 right? What if you take into consideration that you can buy a brand new 454 off of eBay that's being parted out from a RTR for about 110 bucks? Is it worth it then to go for the 454?

Yeah I had problems with my XXL 454 until I figured out that the stock HSN setting is flush with the housing not 2.5 turns out from bottom like the XXL manual suggests. Its also not 2.75 turns out either like the engine manual suggests. The two manuals don't even agree. I brought this up with Horizons tech support people once but nothing ever came of it. Those settings aren't even remotely close to the correct setting. Once I figured that out it was easy to tune and has a lot of power. At least to me it does.

I have the Mach 427 engine. I didn't realize there was a Mach .26 that was different. I just said that because that's basically was a 427 is, a .26. I don't have it in my LST2 anymore though. I modded my OFNA 9.5 MBX to hold it and switched from a 13T Pinion to a 17T. That thing screams like a woman in labor now lol. I'm in the process of converting my LST2 into Electric.

So if you want to buy aftermarket for bashing (i.e. you don't want to spend 300-500+ dollars on an actual racing engine. What are good brands to look for? LRP and OS from what I understand are two good ones. Are there any others?

 

[2revo1maxx]

Most engines' high needles are set flush, if it has that style needle.

I've had great luck with my 454, fricken thing screams.

 

[Greywolf74]

Most engines' high needles are set flush, if it has that style needle.

I've had great luck with my 454, fricken thing screams.

Yeah thats how I discovered that the manual was wrong out of frustration one day I thought to myself "You know most of these are set flush I wonder if that work" and sure enough it did.

 

[olds97_lss]

I didn't see any BIN on ebay for the 454 around $110 that were complete. A few without pullstarts around 110-130, pullstart is $20. Then you take shipping into account...

The LRP28S3 is 169 at my LHS(s).

 

[Greywolf74]

you have to be patient and bid on them I got mine for 110 but now that you mention it I did have to buy the pull start seperately and I paid 14 for it shipping was 7.50. I didnt realize the LRP.28S3was only 169. not to much more. Guess next time I will be looking into the LRP. Thanks for that info. I really appreciate it.

 

[2revo1maxx]

I got my spare 454 pretty cheap too, maybe around 110-120 shipped?

It'll be a while before I have to replace them, but it's eventually gonna be a 30x with a pullstart.

 

[Olly-a]

Hi, i have a team infinity .18 engine which i only got back in the summer i have broken it in and tunned it and it has only gone though a quater of a gallon of fuel but after i left it untill now it wont start i have cleaned the carb and stripped the engine down but it still refuses to start, the only way it will start is but pouring fuel directly into the carb or in the head but it will still only run for around 10 seconds before it stalls when i took the carb off i noticed that the crankshaft is slightly corroded, not sure what to do so some advice would be much apriciated thankyou.

 

[Phins Fan]

Not to be rude but first I would start my own thread with my own problems instead of robbing someone elses. That bieng said how was the motor prepped before you put it away? Was there residual fuel left in it? Did you saturare it with afterrun oil or something compartive? How you choose to store it directly affects how it works afterwards.