Traxxas 2.5 Revo and 3.3 Jato suspension and steering

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HDRIDER56

RCTalk Basher
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Location
Delaware ohio
RC Driving Style
  1. Crawling
I need to reset the toe and camber links on my Jato and 2.5 Revo, does anyone have the stock length of the toe and camber links to get me somewhere close to squared up? My two cars are project cars that I got from a buddy, the links are 10 to 15mm off between one side to the other. I got the steering links set to the 31.7mm, I know to cycle the servo and zero the trim. Looking for a starting measurement if possible
 
You can find the manuals online with a quick google search. Here is the Jato steering link
Screenshot_20240124_010959.jpg


Here is the Revo
Screenshot_20240124_011236.jpg
 
I have the manuals and my steering links length set, I can't find the factory setting length for the toe and camber links. I did miss the longer 43.1 length for the Jato. Haven't messed with it yet, my Revo is far worse.
 
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I have the manuals and my steering links length set, I can't find the factory setting length for the toe and camber links. I did miss the longer 43.1 length for the Jato. Haven't messed with it yet, my Revo is far worse.
The toe is set with the steering links. So those numbers will get you in the ballpark.

For the camber, just use a square to get the wheel straight then set your link to that and adjust the camber from there.
 
or just eyeball it for that matter. Its not hard to get it in the ballpark. RPM makes (or at least used to make) some cheap toe and camber tools that will help.
 
Those measurements shown above are only for setting the servo arm to bellcrank length. They set the servo arm location so the bellcranks are centered when the servo is centered. There is no set measurements for the toe links or the camber links.

For the Revo I screw in the pillow balls all the way and then set camber by unscrewing either the bottom or top one to set the camber. After setting camber then I set the toe-links. I just tried measuring mine on my truck and they were around 142mm.

For the Jato mine are around 84mm for the camber links and around 95mm for the toe-links
 
The toe is set with the steering links. So those numbers will get you in the ballpark.

For the camber, just use a square to get the wheel straight then set your link to that and adjust the camber from there.
I was mainly looking at what to set the links lengths to since they're so far off from one side to the other. One wheel is toed in like a club foot, the other side is toed out somewhere in left field. Lol
Got everything taken apart on the Jato waiting on transmission case halves and diff case cover to get here.
Can anyone suggest what parts are best to upgrade to aluminum?
 
I was mainly looking at what to set the links lengths to since they're so far off from one side to the other. One wheel is toed in like a club foot, the other side is toed out somewhere in left field. Lol
Got everything taken apart on the Jato waiting on transmission case halves and diff case cover to get here.
Can anyone suggest what parts are best to upgrade to aluminum?
Uprights/c-hubs is a good one. Shocks as well. I'd keep the plastic rear shock tower because the aluminum one I am sure is what caused my transmission case failure. There's really not much available for them in aluminum unless you can find a transmission housing.
 
Uprights/c-hubs is a good one. Shocks as well. I'd keep the plastic rear shock tower because the aluminum one I am sure is what caused my transmission case failure. There's really not much available for them in aluminum unless you can find a transmission housing.
All of the aluminum trans cases I've seen were out of stock, I am looking towards replacing the suspension arms, driveshafts, axle stub carriers.
What about sway bars. I see them listed as a part that came with the RC, don't see them or anything showing they were ever installed on mine.
 
All of the aluminum trans cases I've seen were out of stock, I am looking towards replacing the suspension arms, driveshafts, axle stub carriers.
What about sway bars. I see them listed as a part that came with the RC, don't see them or anything showing they were ever installed on mine.
The trans cases are few and far between, and way overpriced when you do catch one on ebay.

You don't want aluminum arms on a Jato. They will get bent, and likely do damage to the bulkheads. Grab some RPM arms.

And stay far away from the junk Traxxas aluminum links. They are worthless.
 
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How close is the newer Revo 3.3 nitro to the 2.5? I cannot find anything listed for my older 2.5 if it isn't close is there any current models that are close enough I can use for a reference point? I've been using the 3.3 model, so far so good.
 
The trans cases are few and far between, and way overpriced when you do catch one on ebay.

You don't want aluminum arms on a Jato. They will get bent, and likely do damage to the bulkheads. Grab some RPM arms.

And stay far away from the junk Traxxas aluminum links. They are worthless.
What about sway bars? The parts listings and drawings show them as an included option. Mine doesn't have any signs of them being installed?
 
What about sway bars? The parts listings and drawings show them as an included option. Mine doesn't have any signs of them being installed?
That's because a lot of people don't fiddle with installing them. But the Jato definitely needs them, especially on the front.
 
That's because a lot of people don't fiddle with installing them. But the Jato definitely needs them, especially on the front.
Amazon has the front and rear set for $18 and change, need to grab a couple things I forgot to get last order. Seems like I'm forgetting something here and there on most orders. No local shops really carry a lot of parts for the Traxxas Nitro cars.
Thanks for the help
 
Okay which differential oil do I need to get for the Jato, not like they only have one or two to choose from. Lol I'm in Ohio, so normal Sumner and winter temps
 
Who makes a good aftermarket air filter assembly for RC cars
 
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