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- Thread starter
- #62
Center Brace/Wire Routing
Dremel tool used to make extra opening, on center brace, for ESC's wires to pass through while on their way to the receiver. Wires are at that perfect spot for trial and error. I don't think I weakened the brace much/if at all. Time will tell.
Dremel tool used to make extra opening, on center brace, for ESC's wires to pass through while on their way to the receiver. Wires are at that perfect spot for trial and error. I don't think I weakened the brace much/if at all. Time will tell.
I will be using 2S packs that have 5mm "tubes". I was trying to make sure I had enough battery wire length to reach back of battery tray. I'm not sure if my orientation of the ESC is the best way, but for now, it seems to be working out.
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- Thread starter
- #63
Wire Routing
She's slowly taking shape...
In case anyone wants to know, normal LiPo stick packs will fit battery tray.
She's slowly taking shape...
In case anyone wants to know, normal LiPo stick packs will fit battery tray.
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- Thread starter
- #65
I normally don't do it. I like black on black/gray hardware, but I plan to run a yellow colored body this time around and the price for the gold bits/pieces was right. I originally ordered some from eBay.
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i orederd an assortment in dark blue, i like a little accent colour!
- Thread starter
- #67
Shoving It All In There
Receiver mounted, and my attempt at dirt entrance mitigation...
Edit: And tiny antenna tube installed for now... plugging the hole.
Receiver mounted, and my attempt at dirt entrance mitigation...
Edit: And tiny antenna tube installed for now... plugging the hole.
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WickedFog
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Looks like that should help. Whatever you do, don't put an o-ring on it or the Traxxas lawyers will sue the pants off ya
- Thread starter
- #69
Well, Horizon Hobby may want to jump in on this one, 'cause my backup plan is this Axial knockoff:Looks like that should help. Whatever you do, don't put an o-ring on it or the Traxxas lawyers will sue the pants off ya
WickedFog
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Oh, a nice silicone seal there. That should do nicely!
- Thread starter
- #71
Finished things up a while back. Wire routing, battery connectors soldered on, endpoints set... wheels, tires, and body painting needed. One thing you'll never hear from me is, "I love coming home from work, and start painting RC car bodies."
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What are the shock lengths eye to eye, and OD of the shock body?
- Thread starter
- #74
Shock Length
. Shock bodies are 16.25mm at the threads.
As per the manual, the stock droop settings are 98mm/108mm. Well, built as per manual, I was on able to get the shocks 96.82mm (front) and 107.62mm (rear) eye to eye measurements... close enough
. Shock bodies are 16.25mm at the threads.
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- Thread starter
- #75
Battery
Everyone says how heavy the 2.0 is, and having a battery with enough capacity/headroom is key to making a 10 minute run on the track. Hopefully, my chosen battery will be enough. CNHL had a promotion going on at Amazon, and the two CNHL packs that I used last year seemed good. Sooo...
Everyone says how heavy the 2.0 is, and having a battery with enough capacity/headroom is key to making a 10 minute run on the track. Hopefully, my chosen battery will be enough. CNHL had a promotion going on at Amazon, and the two CNHL packs that I used last year seemed good. Sooo...
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Been looking into those types of packs. Once my old SMC 7200s give up.
But first I need to learn how to solder bullet plugs better.
But first I need to learn how to solder bullet plugs better.
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Dang, those wouldn’t work for me then, I was looking at options to replace the shocks on my xterminator nitro buggy. But they seem like the diameter is pretty close, and the rears would work on the front. Well now that I measure these shocks, those probably could work…….. Thanks!Shock Length
As per the manual, the stock droop settings are 98mm/108mm. Well, built as per manual, I was on able to get the shocks 96.82mm (front) and 107.62mm (rear) eye to eye measurements... close enough
- Thread starter
- #78
Steering Stop Screws
Having lots of steering is always nice, but that last little bit of steering throw, on the SCT410 2.0, has very little leverage on the inside tire while going into a turn. This allows inside wheel/tire rubbing on my 2.0's arm. The 2.0 manual does not suggest, nor does the kit come with, any steering stops (screws) to physically control that last little bit of movement of the inside spindle/steering block. There is a molding mark on the spindle and I though it would be a great place to add a M3x6mm button head screw.
Edit: To further explain why I felt the need to add the steering stop screws can be found HERE.
Having lots of steering is always nice, but that last little bit of steering throw, on the SCT410 2.0, has very little leverage on the inside tire while going into a turn. This allows inside wheel/tire rubbing on my 2.0's arm. The 2.0 manual does not suggest, nor does the kit come with, any steering stops (screws) to physically control that last little bit of movement of the inside spindle/steering block. There is a molding mark on the spindle and I though it would be a great place to add a M3x6mm button head screw.
Edit: To further explain why I felt the need to add the steering stop screws can be found HERE.
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WickedFog
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Do you not have your endpoints on your servo set?
- Thread starter
- #80
A soldering job doesn't get any easy than what is needed for these connectors.
Just tin both the connector's cup, and wire, then lay the wire in the cup. Give 'er some heat and solder... good to go.
A third hand is always helpful though. Slide heatsink/cap on, and lock into place with set screw.
