Tekno RC SCT410 2.0 1/10th 4WD Short Course Truck

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my 2 cents on servos these days is anything over say....35kg probably isnt seeing much more than that at 6-8.4V. most esc's do like 5 amps? the RX4 from Tekin does 8 amps I think? In a rock crawler it takes a lot of amps to push high torque servos. I would imagine theres alot less resistance in a higher speed scenario..... Bottom line for me, anything 10th scale and bigger is direct power. ESC's also generate heat when the BEC is getting maxed out.
I'm sure that Tekin will work for you, they make great electronics. One of my rock crawlers has a Tekin power system in it and I really enjoy the slow control and the snappy speed too. Gotta love those scratch n dent deals!
 
I would like to see a track comparison on the 410 2.0 and 410sl.
Two differently designed platforms. Each has pros/cons depending on the surface they are being ran on. I'm so glad Tekno has the balls to release not one, but two great SCT platforms when everyone else is just... meh :blackeye::wacky:.
 
The 410 2.0 and 410 SL probably compare like the 410.3 and 410 SL do. One is heavier with 1/8 buggy construction, the other is lighter with 1/10 style components.
 
Almost there!

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Been really happy with my 410.3 but new to the whole shortcourse thing. Feel I kind of spoiled myself starting out with such a good rig. I have not idea what a lesser truck drives like. Keeps me from feeling too antsy, when it comes to upgrades... I suppose. Don't even have a track nearby, so have only driven it 6 times, no races yet. Have had a blast and have made small adjustments after each run. Really wish I could drive it more, but such a rainy summer/fall , even those tracks have been mostly flooded out all season.
 
Fierce RC usually has the best deal. Wife pushed; Black Friday; in stock; fear of missing out, and I couldn't wait... :woot::woot:
So much stress.

Update: My little inspector says I'm good to go. 🐾 :woot: :woot:🐾
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Is there a misprint in the PDF/paper manual?

I looked at Ifti's shock build video and no mention of piston hole sizes. After looking at the PDF manual, I see the pistons are not my normal way of setting up my shock packages. The PDF manual shows 1.2mm pistons for the front, and 1.1mm pistons for the rear.
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Any, and all RCs that I ever built/used has pistons with smaller holes on the front and equal/larger piston holes on the rear shocks. 🤔
 
Is there a misprint in the PDF/paper manual?

The PDF manual shows 1.2mm pistons for the front, and 1.1mm pistons for the rear.
Any, and all RCs that I ever built/used has pistons with smaller holes on the front and equal/larger piston holes on the rear shocks. 🤔
Being as Teknos are front-heavy by design, I think the case is even stronger for a misprint.

Unless the idea is something like the forward weight bias requires harder front springs, which requires thicker fluids, which would mean the larger holes are required?

Have you compared it to other Tekno setups?
 
Being as Teknos are front-heavy by design, I think the case is even stronger for a misprint.

Unless the idea is something like the forward weight bias requires harder front springs, which requires thicker fluids, which would mean the larger holes are required?

Have you compared it to other Tekno setups?
I'm just preparing for start of build. The 2.0 kit is still in box.

I may just build it my way and see what trouble I can get myself into. I have asked about the pistons in multiple groups/forums, but no feedback yet.
 
Hmm, hadn't looked that far ahead with my MT410-2.0, but now I see they suggest 1.2mm piston with #700 oil in the front, and 1.1mm piston with #600 oil in the rear.

My MT410 used the same pistons and #700 oil front and rear,
 
Matthew "Mr. Tekno" Armeni got back to me a bit ago, and said:
The piston setup is correct, 5x1.2 front and 5x1.1 rear. To make the 5x1.2 work in the rear shocks you'll need to run minimum of 700 oil, and if I recall right think I prefered 800 during testing. In the front you'll need something around 400 with the 5x1.1, probably lighter. The problem with swapping the pistons (and the reason we didn't do it in the kit) is because the workable range of oils is limited, especially if the weather is very hot or very cold. If the truck didn't drive well with any of the pistons sets we already had, we would have molded new ones specifically for this kit.
 
Building The Diffs
I don't know when I started tapping diff case holes, but I do believe it makes a difference in feeling that "all snugged up"/stopping point during final tightening of the screws. Just one of my precautionary measures.
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Using a drill, screw, and Speed Tip... I got threads (picture below) I can work with now:
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It's a start. Veering from stock setup...
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I don't know when I started pre-tapping diff cases, but I do believe it makes a difference in feeling that "all snugged up"/stopping point during final tightening of the screws. Just one of my precautionary measures.
View attachment 181396
Using a drill, screw, and Speed Tip... I got threads (picture below) I can work with now:
View attachment 181397
It's a start. Veering from stock setup...
View attachment 181392
s
There is a thing called form taps, or roll form taps, or roll taps (depends on which machine shop you work in). They don't cut threads into material. They form them in. Makes for a much stronger thread in soft materials like aluminum and plastic. I have them for everything up to 4mm screws. Great for plastic.
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Receiver Box
Just one of the future plans for a sealed receiver box may come in Axial SCX10 form as I can see dust and debris pouring in the big opening on the stock built-in receiver box. The Axial piece was bought for my SCT410SL, but I never used it. It fits pretty good in the space provided on the SCT410 2.0's battery tray. I'll try some sort of foam first most likely.
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ESC Installation
I used the holes on the bottom of the ESC's case to mount the unit to the plate (leaving screws just snug). I also put a layer of double sided tape in between to cushion things a bit. Even when you have lots of room, deciding which direction you want things to go can be troublesome. None of the holes on the mounting plate lined up to the Hobbywing EZRun Max10 140A G2. At least not the direction I have the ESC positioned.

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