RC10GT Need engine help - please

[nitro_salsa]

<--- As you can see I'm banging my head against this one.

Newbie to cars/trucks - Had an airplane in the early 80's so I've been around the hobby a long time.

I've got a .15 mill running in my RC10. When I go to pull start it, it seems to have compression-a-plenty, but it doesn't start very quickly. Primarily due to the fact that after 3 or 4 pulls it's like no compression at all. I just replaced the zip-start on the engine, and this is when the problem started.

I'm inclined to believe that something in the new pull-start is off, or the nut with the bearings in it is bad/dammaged/messed up somehow.

Or do I have real problems?

This thing runs a stinger pipe (the only mod on it) and on short grass has so much torque it's hard to steer unless I lay on the brake, in fact it won't even turn while accelerating. Yes and I need some weight in the front end to help it stay on the ground. So I know I've got a mean machine, it's just getting it started.

After the engine starts once, it'll start again without any trouble at all (when it stalls) but the initial get-it-going when it's cold is about to torque me off.

Any suggestions???

Thanks

Jim

 

[NCNitro]

What engine are you running, sounds like your one way bearing might be slipping. A little more info would help though.

 

[x_789]

Jim the problem sounds to be with the One Way bearing. Simply stated in a one way bearing the needle bearings are not round they are teardrop shaped this is so that it will not grab going one direction but will the other way. IF you prime the motor good by blowing in the pressure line till you hear no air in the carb I bet you will get a good pull right off.
What is happening is when you shut off the motor the oil from the fuel will cause the needle bearings to stick in the one way bearing. When you prime it the fuel essentially washes or knocks loose the needle bearings causing the one way to grab the crank. When the motor is hot the oil hasn't had time to gum up the bearings and hold them in place.
Reply with what type of engine you have and there may be some mods you can make to the starter to prevent this also. For now though try priming via the pressure tube and see what happens just don't drink the nitro it gives you a bad hangover the next day.
P.S. if you changed starters because of this issue hang on to the starter because its probably ok. X

 

[NCNitro]

BTW welcome to the best forum on the net.

Hey X, get your own ideas

 

[x_789]

Man That was my idea it just took so long for that spell checker to fix all my misspelled words is why you posted before me. Also notice my post was only one minute behind yours so think about it in reality its MY IDEA. :cheerful:

By the way Glad to see you posting Salsa no need to be a silent member...X

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Oh hell you BOTH stole MY idea

 

[NCNitro]

Get out of here Captain Random, lol

 

[nitro_salsa]

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. Such a nice welcome. Tried posting to another board and got ignored.

Will post that question to the appropriate section of this site and see what I get.

Ok, onto the questions at hand.

X the priming of the carb/fuel line worked! got it started in 3 pulls! Thanks a million.

X and NCNitro the mill I'm running is an ae .15. It's the one comes standard on the GT Plus. I bought it from a guy used. And he had just added the stinger.

The old pull start had unsprung itself, and I had dissasembled it and resprung it, it lasted about 2 cold starts and so I went to my LHS to get a new one. there was nothing on that one to salvage except the one way bearing (which btw is a nut that fits inside of the pull-start assembly), not inside the engine housing like the docs on the ae site show.

Anyway, too cold right now to run it much, so I think this weekend I'll take the truck apart and give it a good cleaning and rebuild it. If I do I'll soak the nut/bearing in some gas and then soak it in some light weight oil hehe, to see if tha helps.

Will post another thread for my next problem. I alluded to it in my original post here.

Thanks for all the help/support! This is what this hobby is all about.

Jim

 

[NCNitro]

Don't soak the bearing in gas, instead use denatured alcohol. Let it soak a couple hours and then if you have a compressor or can of compressed air blow it out as good as possible, then oil it prior to reinstalling it.

 

[Candyman]

If it's the same AE that my RTR came with 3 years ago, the one way is embedded in the backplate inside the engine. There is a smooth "bolt" that slides through the backplate and meshes with the pull starter. So remove the backplate and the one way will drop out. Like Nitro said, soak it in denatured alcohol or nitro wash. Gas will melt the internals of the one way making it useless. I have had this problem a few times with the .15 on my truck. Just keep it clean and it should be ok.

 

[nitro_salsa]

Denatured alcohol it is then. I grew up as the neighborhood bicycle mechanic, as well as lawnmower mechanic as I got older. Gasoline is the best cleaning solvent I've known to date.

Ok and carb cleaner too :ha

So ya can teach an old dog new tricks. WIll try the alcohol.

Thanks for the redirect!

Jim

 

[nitro_salsa]

Denatured alcohol worked great! Thanks!

Candyman, the smooth bolt you mentioned is also in my engine, but the shaft comes through the backplate and goes through a "nut" of sorts on the outside of the engine. The nut meshes with the pull start. The nut is the one way bearing itself.

But thanks for the info, it is nice to feel welcome here.

Jim

 

[x_789]

Jim you are correct that is your one way bearing. You can modify your pull start more than likely bye drilling a hole in and threading in a nipple then you can put a piece of fuel line on the nipple and just give a spray of nitro blast in the line when ever you have issues to clean the one way. Retread has pictures on how to do this to a easy start. I know backspur has some pix of his O.S. engines done this way I will tell him to post some pix for you. X

 

[Candyman]

Originally posted by nitro_salsa
Candyman, the smooth bolt you mentioned is also in my engine, but the shaft comes through the backplate and goes through a &quot;nut&quot; of sorts on the outside of the engine. The nut meshes with the pull start. The nut is the one way bearing itself.

Ahh... if it's the AE .15, then then finally changed that. Thank God. It was a major pain to have to take the engine apart to get to the one way. That makes it so much easier.

 

[nitro_salsa]

Thanks X - I can almost visualize what you're saying there.

And Candyman. It's still a pain for me to get that far, cuz I have to loosen the header for my stinger pipe to get at the last bolt LOL

Jim