Luke's MM (mid motor) traxxas slash 2wd build

[Lukedavis]

I have already started on it and I have the tranny mounted and everything put onto the chassis. I will post some pics after I post the thread.

 

[luke66]

i wnat to do the same with my dads slash. looks totally sick.

 

[Lukedavis]

i wnat to do the same with my dads slash. looks totally sick.

Thanks lol

 

[DavidB1126]

Alright.
You with the slash.
Luke with the Rusty
And @ZaneC with the bandit.
Wonder how someone can make a mid motor stampede? Cause the chassis is like high and the transmission is on the skid plate.

I was just watching a video, this guy, carpet racer, experimenting with rear motor and mid motor, and different tires. For his mid motor conversion he used a nitro slash chassis. With the nitro slash chassis, how it is layed out, by the looks of it, you have to run a shorty battery, you won't be able to run a full size stick pack.

Since I'm planning on racing the rusty, I'm thinking about putting my ESC in the battery tray, use some spare tire foam for inserts / blocks, and use my old shorty packs instead of a full size stick pack. (Idea from @Razor RC and @MX Acres on YT)

I was mentioning mid motor conversion for either my slash or rusty in my build thread updates last night, I'm sticking with rear motor, just so it's cheap and easy, and less time consuming. It would be more custom work to use the factory plastic chassis. Sure I can use the nitro chassis, but I would have to re organize all my electronics and such. (and need a shorty pack)

 

[Lukedavis]

Alright.
You with the slash.
Luke with the Rusty
And @ZaneC with the bandit.
Wonder how someone can make a mid motor stampede? Cause the chassis is like high and the transmission is on the skid plate.

I was just watching a video, this guy, carpet racer, experimenting with rear motor and mid motor, and different tires. For his mid motor conversion he used a nitro slash chassis. With the nitro slash chassis, how it is layed out, by the looks of it, you have to run a shorty battery, you won't be able to run a full size stick pack.

Since I'm planning on racing the rusty, I'm thinking about putting my ESC in the battery tray, use some spare tire foam for inserts / blocks, and use my old shorty packs instead of a full size stick pack. (Idea from @Razor RC and @MX Acres on YT)

I was mentioning mid motor conversion for either my slash or rusty in my build thread updates last night, I'm sticking with rear motor, just so it's cheap and easy, and less time consuming. It would be more custom work to use the factory plastic chassis. Sure I can use the nitro chassis, but I would have to re organize all my electronics and such. (and need a shorty pack)

Chuckworksrc makes mid motor chassis kits for the rusty, slash, stampede, and bandit
They are like 130$ though lmao

 

[DavidB1126]

They are like 130$ though lmao

Out of my budget.

My budget is about,

Looks like a few pennys and quarters

 

[Lukedavis]

UPDATE. I designed a chassis to be plasma cut out of aluminum on onshape and once i smooth all of the bumps of my design out, i might start selling some or if you want I can release the files to you guys . I will post pics of it when i get home tonight. I will post some photos of my design here in a minute.
Here is the bottom plate. (It took a VERY long time to make lol.) There will be screenshots of dimensions farther down in this post.Here is the top plate for the chassis. (To make this, I just imported the bottom chassis into another parts studio and cut half of it off and resized it to fit between the front shock towers. I am going to have to remove some of the sides next to the front two holes.)

Here is the completed top plate.

Here is the base layout of the bottom chassis plate. It has lots of dimensions and took a long while lol.

This is the bottom chassis plate shape.

This is what the v1 bottom chassis plate looks like. i need to move the two holes that i have circled a little farther back and resize them. that is where the bellcranks go. The reason that I have to move the holes back and resize them is because the way that they are the bellcranks rub up against the front bulkhead.

Here are the holes that connect the top chassis plate with the bottom chassis plate. You will need 30mm M4 spacers to fill the gap. Almost every screw that I am using on this is M4 or M3.

Here is the top chassis plate layout. I just used the same layout as the bottom chassis plate.

In this photo, I just extended the front out to make up for the extra length that is needed to make the holes line up.

EDIT: fixed the first sentence where it said it was the top plate lol.

 

[Lukedavis]

ran out of file space lol. Going to continue in another post.
In this screenshot, it is extruded and is just the bottom chassis but longer and the front of it is slightly narrower. I need to make it even more narrow because currently it will not fit in between the front shock towers. The 200 mm dimension is just showing how long the top chassis plate will be.

In this screenshot, it shows that the unnecessary parts of the plate are removed.

In this screenshot, it shows the hole placement that lines up with the bottom chassis hole placement that connects the two together with a 30mm M4 spacer.

This photo shows that I need to move the front mounting holes back a couple of mm because the holes do not line up at all with the front bulkhead screw holes.

This photo shows where the hole placement for the bell cranks are. I also need to move these back a couple of mm because where they are now makes the bell cranks rub against the front bulkhead.

Thats all I have for now. If you have any questions or want the files, ask me and I will happily give you access to them . They are almost done and I will also be designing a 3D printed battery mount for it and I will also release those files as well. Thanks for looking in!

 

[luke66]

if i designed a chassis brace for my rusty MM, would you be able to get it made and shipped to me?
i also have plans to maybe make a custom wheelie bar.

 

[Lukedavis]

if i designed a chassis brace for my rusty MM, would you be able to get it made and shipped to me?
i also have plans to maybe make a custom wheelie bar.

hell yeah! i can totaly do that for you!

 

[luke66]

hell yeah! i can totaly do that for you!

okay sweet! ill make the 3D model and send it to you.

 

[Lukedavis]

okay sweet! ill make the 3D model and send it to you.

okay!

okay sweet! ill make the 3D model and send it to you.

I can help you with the custom wheelie bar if you want. What CAD do you use?

 

[luke66]

okay!

I can help you with the custom wheelie bar if you want. What CAD do you use?

I'm not sure yet... this will be my first time making a 3D model. i forget what my dad uses.
ill tell you by tonight

 

[Lukedavis]

I'm not sure yet... this will be my first time making a 3D model. i forget what my dad uses.
ill tell you by tonight

kk. if you need my gmail, ill shoot you a private message with my info and phone number.
or if you use outlook, ill include that too.

 

[Lukedavis]

Update. Finished the build for now. Got a bunch of parts like the rpm offset compensating front arms, the proline body mounting kit, and some different springs. It is a ripper for sure!

 

[luke66]

looks like its too much fun for you, ill have to take it from here.

 

[9x19]

Well done.

 

[Lukedavis]

Well done.

thanks!

looks like its too much fun for you, ill have to take it from here.

It’s a lot of fun lmao
Monster slash go crazy lol

 

[Greywolf74]

If it were me, Id buy a $10 battery tray and slap in it to better secure your lipos.

 

[Lukedavis]

If it were me, Id buy a $10 battery tray and slap in it to better secure your lipos.

I think that’s what I’m gonna eventually do