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kx250ryder said:If you are new to tuning, I would highly suggest getting a sealed backplate for your motor (or at least throwing away the pullstart internals, and siliconing it shut) and going with a starter box.
Yeah, its another 100 between a good box (such as OFNA #10253 w/ power panel) but you can run your glow ignitor off of the big 12 volt battery with the power panel, so your ignitor won't constantly be dying. That, and its hard enough to learn to tune, no need add fighting pullstart strings breaking and one way bearing nightmares to the mix.
Got Nitro? said:I'm not new to tuning,I'm just very rusty lol. It's been awhile since I've ran a nitro and I'm brushin up on my skill's.
Rotostart's are hard on the owb but it would seem easier. I'm gonna have to see if somebody make's a roto backplate for the wasp.28. If they do I'm buying one.
Monkey Wrench said:You need to get rid of that Wasp engine, man. I know it's not what you want to hear, and probably have nothing to replace it with, but you can see how crazy it is making you.
I have not heard anyone ever say that the Wasp is a joy to tune and holds it well!
Good luck, but before you decide to throw the towel in on the hobby because of that engine, see about getting an alternate mill.
One bit of advice with the rotostart. You've already experienced how easily the Wasp hydrolocks. You have to be EXTREMELY careful using the rotostart because it will hydrolock easily and shitcan the OWB in a snap.
Good luck, my man!
HeartBreak said:When you pulled the pullstart apart (try sayin that 10 times fast!), did it look somethin like this?
Note the coil between the rope-spool and the casing. That should be in the pullstarter.