Big Block REVO help and advice???

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vsill280

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I am new to forums and need a little help. Has anyone put a big block in their REVO? is it better to stay with the 3.3 or go to the big block?

I am not an amature, but not a pro. i guess you could call me a back yard warrior. i want an engine that is reliable, easy to start and tune, has common parts that are available and at reasonble prices and would also like electric start.

Like anyone, i also want a balistic amount of power.

here are my questions...can you help?
1. what is the best big block engine with the most power that meets my requirements? i have been looking at the ofna force .28 and dynamite .28 mach. suggestions???

2. what do i need to make this work? traxxas big block kit, new era kit, or other?

3. what pipe and manifold do you recommend?

4. what gearing works well for general all around fun?

5. shaft start or torque start?

anything i am missing? any good, cheap websites to go to to purchase these parts? your feedback is appreciated.
 
I forget wat engine I saw but it war very nice and I saw someone wit it in a revo but I heard that a picco.26 maxx was pretty gr8 and I keep making typing errors b/c I am typing on an I phone they r pretty cool they have a touch screen
 
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My neighbor put a picco .26 on his Revo. He said it screams when he runs it. Unfortunately he took it off a big jump and it landed on the head and snapped it off. It's a direct drop in, no mods required.
 
hey man , i run a picco .26 with a dynamite 053 sidepipe and i love it , picco power is sweet. the .28 is too much i find .
 
cut a piece out of the body to fit the sidepipe, other than that the picco fits right in and the sidepipe fits directly , you just have to get a piece to hold the pipe in place from the side.
 
you didn't have to buy the "big block installation kit"??? the linkage worked??? pull start worked?? what about electric start??? is it worth the $ for the big block over the 3.3???
 
picco .26 max isnt bb, so yeah it all fit, no mods needed.

you may need a different engine mount since the holes arent the same .
 
you didn't have to buy the "big block installation kit"??? the linkage worked??? pull start worked?? what about electric start??? is it worth the $ for the big block over the 3.3???

Picco .26 is a direct drop in. All the stock parts and linkages fit on it. It was designed like that.
 
I'm runnin the new era mount with the AXIAL .28rr engine.

here are some links to a couple of the parts I'm running at the moment.

http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=2420
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=1655
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=2648
http://www.axialracing.com/details.php?Id=3531


dont let the name of the pipe fool you, it doesn't have any low end torque at all. my revo only wheelies going downhill.
i'll be running the Buku in a couple of days.

I'm also running a stock savage clutch with 2 composite shoes and 1 ofna aluminum blue shoe.


i had to custom make my throttle linkage, and it still doesn't open my carb up all the way.


I'm ditching the axial .28rr this week and will be purchasing an LRP .28 spec 3 engine.
i've had too many problems with the axial with it only have 6 tanks through it.



feel free to send me a pm anytime if ur needing some help or have any questions.
 
I had a BB revo using the NE Leaner BB mount and used a duratrax warhead header and pipe. Lined up pretty good and gave decent power.

Z400 isn't wrong about the linkage that came with the NE kit. I made a new throttle wire as I didn't like they one they gave me. It was too flexible and was too short to use an OFNA slider/spring/collar on the servo like I had been using with the 18TM. I don't like using TRS if I don't have to and with the way the revo linkage is, the TRX spring was just way too stiff.

I also had a FOC in the trans, but I did blow out one two speed gear within a gallon or so. I only ran the BB that long in it because it was too much power for such a light truck. I was running only an XTM 24.7. Even with the 3.3 chassis, the nose was in the air all the time at the lightest throttle blip. I didn't have it geared all that high because of where I drive. Speed isn't what I wanted. I wanted torque... and I got way to much of it.

I also modified the chassis to slide the trans 1/4" forward so I could use a BB flywheel/clutch. I used a savage 3-shoe teflon and OFNA 15/16 tooth bells. I believe I ran a 36T spur, but I can't be certain. It was still damn fast and went on it's roof with a light touch of the throttle.

The axles and diffs all held up fine though.

The only other problem I had (other than being overpowered) was that the extra weight of the engine made it bottom out hard all the time. Which eventually (after a few 5 foot jumps) bent the chassis in the engine bay and messed up the spur. If the chassis didn't bend, the motor mount slipped. I tried heavier oil and springs, but the truck was so light in general that that just made it severely bouncy and pretty much underivable at mid speed on any type of rough terrain. Imagine a 1 ton truck running over railroad ties at 30mph... not fun. It did help with the jumps though, but then I was bending push rods.

I went through 5 or 6 spurs in that one gallon where I ran 8 gallons through it with a 2.5R and 18TM on the same spur prior to the BB install.
 
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