Will This Kill My Engine

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mugenseiki

RCTalk Basher
Messages
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Location
Essex, England
RC Driving Style
  1. Racing
when i break in my engine can i let i sit at idle for 5 tanks and then go 1/4 1 tank then 1/2throttle 1 tank and finally full throttle bursts 1 tank ??
 
The idle on the box method is very outdated. I would very much recommend the heat cycle method or a variant of. Check out the sticky in this section. I have used it for years and my engine life has went up since I started using it over the sit and idle method.
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42716
 
I idled maybe 1-2 tanks through my Alpha.....which included @ 5 heat cycles while burning those 1-2 tanks. Then I started giving it blips here and there up to @ 1/2 throttle. Next tank blips to 3/4 or full. tank 4 or so I was on the ground and running it slow.
 
i do a varient between the old method and the heat cycle method.
 
i do a varient between the old method and the heat cycle method.

heres how I've done it i let it sit for 1 tank then drove it at low rpm for 3 tanks then i leaned the hsp keeping the lsn at fac s and drove for three tanks and then i leaned the hsp again and drove it for 2 tanks with full throttle short bursts. i have followed the RB instructions for break in to keep my waranty.
 
Sounds like you are doing pretty good. My biggest problem with the sit and idle is getting any temp out of the engine. I used to do that and sit there with a heat gun keeping the engine hot (220-230). Now I do slow lazy circles and figure 8s up to a quarter throttle for the first couple tanks keeping a close eye on the temps. I wrap the head up if I need to to make sure it gets warmed up. But if follow the instructions the manufacture gives you, always a good bet.
 
thanks for all the comments , why do nitro engines act lean when there cold ??
 
You probably are a little off on the tune. Engines that are not fully broken in can not be leaned as far because there is so much compression they predetonate. Once all the mechanical pinch is gone, then you can fully race tune a mill. Using the older method of breakin is terrible for engines. They do not reach proper operating temps for thermal expansion. Plus all that excess fuel you are trying to force the engine to burn is stressing the pure hell out of the conrod, piston and bearings. My engines last a long time using the newer method. I can race one mill for years without repinching or replacing a piston and sleeve. Properly tuned all you need to do is replace bearings and an occasional rod. That is the secrets to having 10 gallon engines. Of course you have to start with a quality brand though.
 
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