HPI-Killers Traxxas Revo Thread

[REVO-5309]

yeh putting everything apart is actually pretty easy, just lay it out on a big bench so i can spread everything out. and dont loose your little screws and c clips cuz ull go mad trying to find em... unless u have spares then 2 weeks later ull find the ones u lost in another room.

 

[2revo1maxx]

Yeah it's pretty easy.....And good for you wanting to learn. I've done it so many times now I'd rather just get it done than mess around with the shock mounts and little diff support thingies.

 

[HPI-Killer]

I will have to do this when my son is sleeping it sounds like lol or I wont ever get anbother revo built after teardown lol.

I'm stupid but I am about to go bash in the snow, my addiction is getting out of hand, and thats when things stop working lol.

 

[bgbdwlf2500]

Good thing u dont like the revo

 

[HPI-Killer]

poofed my throttle servo lol, came with a basic HPI servo so it works for now lol, gotta stick on the street...

 

[HPIguy]

All the parts are from 3 vendors on ebay, all at differant days, so I will have like 5 boxes coming lol it will be like xmas all over again, except RC stuff.

Isn't that the best, it's like Christmas all week long, all over again.

Sucks about the servo, I have had no issues with the TRX servos in mud or snow at all.

 

[HPI-Killer]

^Yeah but thinking of a reason to tell the wife where all these arts came from lol! It looked rugged, the servo that is, then started crying at me after I mistakenly drove into a pretty deep puddle.

Something upgraded though servo wise would be nice for throttle response.

 

[REVO-5309]

steering servo..... does it have both on there? take one off and put it in there

 

[HPI-Killer]

steering servo..... does it have both on there? take one off and put it in there

Yes, I understand your english, I am saying down the road a tad faster throttle would be nice

 

[2revo1maxx]

Traxxas 2075 works nicely for the throttle. I always use my newest servos for that job.

 

[HPI-Killer]

Traxxas 2075 works nicely for the throttle. I always use my newest servos for that job.

Good idea, oh any by the way, I have officially matched post count with you. Well..for a minute lol..

----------------

Okay guys next question, would a cold rated glow plug affect the starting efficincy, becase I get get the Revo to turn over now...


What do you guys reccomend as far as steering knuckles? I am not sure the part that holds the knuckle on, chub?

On crawlers thats what they are, just not sure with other rigs lol..

 

[HPIguy]

The way I understand it from my nitro days, cold is the heat range of the plug, and not it's recommended ambient temp application, somebody correct me if I'm wrong it's been a while on nitro for me. I always ran the OS #8, medium plugs.

 

[Stroytika]

run opposite, hot if cold out, cold if hot out.

 

[2revo1maxx]

Use a medium or medium hot at all times. In cold weather a medium would be fine. In hot weather use a hot plug.

The heat range affects timing and has no effect on engine temp.

 

[HPI-Killer]

Okay, because I notice that one plug, the coil gets super orange hot, and the other doesn't get super orange all the way to the end of the coil so I am guessing thats a cold plug.


And the steering knuckles & hubs?

 

[HPIguy]

Hmmm, interesting, taken straight from O.S. engines website

http://www.osengines.com/accys/choosing-glowplugs.html

The "right" glow plug for your engine is the one that gives you the best performance. And you can choose the right plug for any situation, just by following the guidelines below.
1. Engine Type

Guideline 1: Know what type of engine you have. Is it a standard - or a turbo?

Standard engines (engines with a 1-piece head) are most common. Standard plugs are easily available, inexpensive and fit almost all standard engines. Standard plugs are installed with a washer, which creates a compression seal with the head.

Many new O.S. engines are turbo engines, which feature a special 2-piece turbo head. The biggest benefit of turbo plugs is superior performance. Unlike standard plugs, turbo plugs (identified by a "P" in the description) feature a tapered "seat" that matches perfectly with the head. That creates a superior compression seal and with it, maximum efficiency and power. Turbo plugs are the choice for racers who want - and need - top performance.

A word of caution: you should never install a turbo plug in a standard engine or vice versa. Doing so risks doing serious (and expensive!) damage.

2. Displacement

Size matters to glow plugs. What size is your engine? A .12? .15? .21? Big engines have more mass and retain heat better. Smaller, lighter engines don't, and need the help a hotter plug can offer.

Guideline 2: The smaller the engine, the hotter the plug.

3. Fuel Nitromethane Content

What's the nitro percentage in your fuel? High-nitro fuels produce more power than low-nitro fuels, but also produce more heat.

Guideline 3: The higher the nitro content, the colder the plug.

4. Temperature

Smart modelers tend to keep a variety of glow plugs on hand. The reason? Because the "right" plug for your engine can change with the temperature. To achieve top performance, your choice of plug needs to change, too.

Guideline 4: The hotter the day, the colder the plug.

5, 6 & 7. Other Considerations

Here are a few other things you should know.

Hot plugs promote better idling and acceleration. If your engine runs rough or accelerates sluggishly, a hotter plug will help.

Cold plugs produce more power and may improve performance if your engine runs hot. The downside is rougher idling and more difficulty in tuning.

Where you run also plays a part. If the track/course has a lot of twists and turns, a hot plug is fine. If the track/course has long straights where you'll reach maximum rpm, a colder plug is best.

Fuel-air mix not only affects how your engine performs; it can also have an impact on how long your plug lasts. If you run rich, it means that you're using more fuel than necessary for top performance. Modelers are often advised to run rich during engine break-in, because it helps cool the engine. However, running too rich can also cause an engine to "bog down" or quit entirely. In addition, it also means that the glow element is being exposed to more contaminants than necessary, which shortens plug life.

Running lean means that you're using less fuel. "Leaning down" an engine has a positive effect on performance. However, care is needed here, because over-leaning an engine can harm it, by raising operating temperatures, "burn up" a plug before its time.

Final Thoughts
Choosing the right glow plug not only improves performance, but can also extend the life of your engine and the glow plug itself. With the guidelines above and the tips below, you're well on your way to achieving both.

1. Buy quality plugs. You're protecting your investment.
2. Store plugs where it's dry. Moisture can ruin them.
3. Use the right glow plug. Follow the guidelines above.
4. Follow proper break-in procedures.
5. Tune your engine carefully. Running too lean will make your engine "blow" plugs more often. Proper tuning helps extend plug life.
6. Never touch the filament of a glow plug. Doing so can break the filament and ruin a plug.
7. Don't over-tighten your plug. Tighten it until it's just snug.
8. Be sure to shim your engine correctly. A plug that's too close to the piston can cause detonation, which will quickly damage a glow plug.
9. Use only a glow starter or 1.5V battery to heat your plug. Otherwise, your plug may burn out ahead of its time.
10. Don't be afraid to ask for help. Experienced modelers have already "been there, done that." Their experience can save you time and money - and most are glad to help.

 

[HPI-Killer]

Awesome post HPI thanks for that.

 

[2revo1maxx]

Good idea, oh any by the way, I have officially matched post count with you. Well..for a minute lol.

That's alot of work! Maybe you should have a snack:

:microwaveconstipat

 

[HPI-Killer]

Its been almost a week since my last update, but due to no more glow plugs and lack of nitro, I have been sitting around waiting for ALLLL of my goodies to arrive! I have everything here except for my MIP shafts and alloy knuckles.

I got started on the re-build today to switch everything over to my new 5309 extended chassis.

And this is what it is doin so far & will finish in the next couple days to a week.



First, remove all the electronic boxes & servos leaving the more mechanical parts on until I can really run through them making sure I dont miss anything in my mental notes and take some 'real' time to disassemble.

I like pointing to the next piece I remove making it easier to capture.

Next, the steering servos, I make sure to remove the hardware, and replace it back into the hole so I know thats where it goes

I forgot to snap the powerplant removal but its as easyas undoig 2-4 screws. In this case, 2.

Next is the front bumper assembley

And this is how it looks thus far, not too bad or hard as I have not gotten into the real hard parts yet.

And my son being silly trying to ruin my fun by hiding parts...

 

[2revo1maxx]

Did you get new rx and servo boxes? I use the platinum ones on mine, they're nice and small.