Jamr
RCTalk Addict
Did that photo resistor come with the light kit?In the body shop. The part by the front window is a photo resistor. Automatic lights.
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Did that photo resistor come with the light kit?In the body shop. The part by the front window is a photo resistor. Automatic lights.
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Bought a pack on ebay. Gotta be a little bit different. The light kit is 1/10 rod shop.Did that photo resistor come with the light kit?
All you should have to do is plug the castle link into the RX plug of the ESC, and then plug the USB cable in to the link.@Greywolf74 or anyone familiar with castle link? I tried with and without the battery in the truck, both on and off. I tried all 3 usb ports, both cords I had and even updated it. I can't access anything as it's not picking it up. I unplugged everything from the esc, all fans, lights, even the motor sensor wire.
Any suggestions?
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I tried the software and it didn't work. Then the software on the pc had an update, so I updated it. A year ago I used it no problem. Today it didn't have the copperhead until after I updated it. I was gonna try to restart the computer......... but it's in my dad's truck. I won't see him until Monday. So this will be Mondays headache.All you should have to do is plug the castle link into the RX plug of the ESC, and then plug the USB cable in to the link.
Question, You said you updated it, but how did you update the ESC if it won't connect to the Link? I'm wondering if maybe you accidentally bricked the ESC? If you didn't brick it, then I'd guess the castle link is bad, since you tried multiple USB cables and multiple USB ports.
Do you have any other Castle ESCs you can try it on? You need either another ESC or another Castle Link to test in order to rule out one piece versus the other piece. Restarting the PC is the first thing I would try, but after that this is what you're looking at since you already tried multiple cables and USB ports.I tried the software and it didn't work. Then the software on the pc had an update, so I updated it. A year ago I used it no problem. Today it didn't have the copperhead until after I updated it. I was gonna try to restart the computer......... but it's in my dad's truck. I won't see him until Monday. So this will be Mondays headache.
The esc worked yesterday. It lights up red when I turn it on and connected so I don't think it bricked. I have a new copperhead for this truck. I just need to solder it up.
The link lights up red when plugged in. The esc will light up red only if I plug it in the battery.Do you have any other Castle ESCs you can try it on? You need either another ESC or another Castle Link to test in order to rule out one piece versus the other piece. Restarting the PC is the first thing I would try, but after that this is what you're looking at since you already tried multiple cables and USB ports.
If you didn't upgrade the firmware on the ESC, then it shouldn't be bricked. When you said you updated it in your earlier post, I didn't realize you meant you update the PC software. I thought you meant you updated the firmware on the ESC. That being said, it doesn't mean the ESC itself may not have an issue.
When I plug in one of my Castle ESCs the red and yellow LEDs are lit up solid and the green light flashes very fast. Sounds like yours is only lighting up the red LED?
Anytime. I hope you get it sortedThe link lights up red when plugged in. The esc will light up red only if I plug it in the battery.
I have a sidewinder, og mamba, and a brand new copperhead I will try Monday when I get my computer back. Thanks for your help.
If not I got a sledge hammer and am feeling like gallagher.Anytime. I hope you get it sorted
The amazing Mastertool Corporation, ace subsidiary of Fly-By-Night Industries, has entrusted who? Me! To show you the handiest and the dandiest kitchen tool you've ever seen, and don't you want to know how it works!If not I got a sledge hammer and am feeling like gallagher.
Aftermath right here. For a rwd open diff it's a beast. Gotta upload the video this weekend.You need to put a gopro on it and send it down that culvert
Don't you just hate when the shaft slips out?Truck is being a pain in the rear end. Installed a locker and drive 15 minutes perfect. Up and down a steep incline pulling 30Ibs no problem. Did some passes on flat ground and some donuts without weight and still good.
I get home and drive 2 minutes before it becomes right wheel drive. Drive it for 10 minutes like that. Get to work and drive another 10 minutes and decide to pull again. Made it 20 feet no issues. I hit the brake and I lose all power to the wheels.
I'm assuming since you can feel the initial torque the shafts may have exited the locker.
Atleast they didn't slip out then get shoved into a solid object.Don't you just hate when the shaft slips out?
But how would they slip out? Isn't there flanges or steps on the axle that lock it in place?
I'm very curious to see what the problem is.Atleast they didn't slip out then get shoved into a solid object.
I might have stripped the screw in the plastic or I rounded the locker which is aluminum. The wheels turn a souther hair then stop as the drives after on the pinion spins.
Tune in later to find out.
"Caused by the nut connecting the steering wheel to the drivers seat".I'm very curious to see what the problem is.