Problem to get the MGT to start

[Knoen]

I just bought the MGT and I had a lot of problem to even get it started, some times like one in an hour I got it to run like 10-seconds then it dies. I am a rookie to NITRO RC so I have no clue where the problem is. I have looked so it don´t get flooded. I turned the high needle so more fuel got the engine. But when I drag the dragstart it get stucked so I think it is to much fuel to the engine, so I set it back to industry setting. I don’t use the hexstart because I want to know if the engine got flooded.

Sometimes when the dragstart feels stuck and I release the glowplug it´s got a lot easier.

But even if the engine was not flooded it was quite hard to pull it, but I have no references

Anyway the thread in my dragstart broke just under the puller, I did´nt pull to hard or to long I think it just looked wear out. I have been pulling a lot and probably wrong.

So anyway I think I need to dissemble the engine now, the happy side is that I will probably learn something about the engine.

 

[jon2]

First you need to yank that short plug in there and drop in a MC-59 or a long plug. Heat range depends on your area. Now Is this Brand new? I know that you need to set your needles a certain way to break them in but I am not sure if it stays the same with the new plug. I Left them the same way through break in and then tuned for more power. I also ziptied all lines to nipples fo a sure connection.

Let us know

Jon

 

[Chevy-SS]

Knoen, man, don't start by taking the engine apart. I think the statistic is something like 90% of all running issues are related to tuning, so that is what I would suspect in your case.

You will need to learn a few basics so that you have some idea what the problem might be. All new engines will be hard to crank over using pull-start. That is because of "pinch" and compression. Pinch is the machined tight fit between piston and sleeve. Sleeve is actually a little smaller than piston, especially until it breaks in, that is why it is important to break in engine correctly.

I know you got a MGT, but here is a good tuning page by Traxxas. http://www.traxxas.com/support/pub/trx_sl_tuning25.htm It is for their .15 T-Maxx engine, but virtually all info will apply to the Thunder Tiger .21 in your MGT. I would start by reading that page carefully.

Oh, by the way, here's a link to the Team Associated site for MGT issues, just in case you're insulted that I suggested the Traxxas site: :devil: http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/techhelp/faq.nitro.htm

It may be a drag, but you will need to study and read those pages. Otherwise, running nitro engines will drive you crazy and you'll get discouraged. In reality, the engines are quite simple and you will find there are only a few basic issues that need attention.

Good luck.

 

[Knoen]

Thanks so much for the help, I am going to study the tips and read the url and after that I am going to give you a report

Anyway I still need to get the dragstart thred/wire out of the "starting wheel", because the thread broke when I pulled. Thats why I talked about dissasemble the engine, but I think I did an overstatement, but what it looks like I only need to open the "starting wheel cover" and get it out ?

the thread broke at the handle, so wheel should steel be intact !

 

[RatzoRC]

I took mine out of the box, and put a drill to it. It started in about 4 seconds.
It sounds like you are flooding it.
Take out the glow plug, turn the truck upside down, and pull, well you broke that, put the drill to it for a second or two, to clear out the fuel.
Put the glowplug with the copper washer back in, only pump the primer till you see the fuel get to the carb, and start.
Make sure you go back to factory settings for break in.
And yes, the MC-59 will be a better plug.
Good luck.

 

[olds97_lss]

I have found that running a medium plug in my 21 gives much greater power than a hot plug like the 59. I tried an OS A3 and a McCoy 59, it ran ok, was easy to start, but with something like the OS #8 plug, you may see a dramatic power increase.

Most 21 engines call for a cold to medium plug, not a hot plug anyway.

If you haveing a hard time starting it, try heating the engine up with a hair drier before starting. With the engine warm, it expands the sleeve a little to help you out. Also, you can tighten the glow plug, then back it off 1/4 turn to get it started. Once its running, tighten the plug down. This will also relieve some of the compression to make it easier to turn over.

Make sure that your glow ignitor is 100% charged. If you using an alkiline glow heater, I suggest you get a sub-c heater instead. Alkilines can't handle the massive current draw that a glow plug requires. Alkilines will die on you fast. Less than a minute is what I was getting out of energizer's when I first started. Then I bought a sub-c heater and starting a nitro has been much much easier.

I have worked on many engines and the principles of a glow engine are a combination of a diesel and 2 cycle engine. They don't require spark to run, just heat, compression and a chemical reaction with the coil (platinum i think) that's in the glow plug.

These things do require a different style of learning, but once you figure it out, it's all downhill from there. Just remember to break the engine in properly once you get it running and to run a little on the rich side to preserve engine life.

 

[Chevy-SS]

olds97, where did you get the info that air/fuel ignition is caused by a chemical reaction between the air/fuel mixture and the metal in the glow plug?

I have always heard (and believe) that the heat of combustion keeps the glow plug glowing, which in turn ignites the air/fuel mixture on the next cycle. The glow plug acts like a spark plug, but doesn't work off electricity. This scenario seems to make more sense than a chemical reaction. Just my .02.

 

[olds97_lss]

Sorry, but a really can't remember. But it is a chemical reaction between the coating on the coil and the methanal in the fuel.