Nitro Rustler Idle Problems?...

[Kris407]

There should almost always be some sort of pressure pushing on the carb slide (unless you are on the throttle) to ensure it is closing properly and is not able to close completely if the brake is applied. you can also pop the throttle arm off the carb slide horn and slide it open and close with your fingers, it should slide smooth both ways.

if your going to play with the tune keep the tuning flow chart handy that i linked in my earlier post. also look on youtube on how to remove and clean an RC Nitro carb. it can't hurt

 

[Jam Racing 1]

The other thing you might try is reading the instruction manual all the way through a couple of times.....And Traxxas has vids on their site to help with problems too....

 

[Rdizz]

The other thing you might try is reading the instruction manual all the way through a couple of times.....And Traxxas has vids on their site to help with problems too....

I have read it numerous times before I even attempted to break it in. Still does not help the fact the idle screw is not adjusting the idle.... I will on the other hand watch some traxxas vids and give them a call if I must.

 

[Jam Racing 1]

Like the others have said , disconnect the carb linkage and set the idle by eye to about 1mm open while gently holding the slide closed , check the trim on the transmitter and reset to zero if needed..... if all else fails then call Traxxas... those threads pull out rather easily because they are just plastic so using much force usually wrecks the threads inside the idle screw port......i have seen several with pulled out threads.....

 

[Rdizz]

Like the others have said , disconnect the carb linkage and set the idle by eye to about 1mm open while gently holding the slide closed , check the trim on the transmitter and reset to zero if needed..... if all else fails then call Traxxas... those threads pull out rather easily because they are just plastic so using much force usually wrecks the threads inside the idle screw port......i have seen several with pulled out threads.....

Just completed this. Will give it a shot tomorrow after work. Also unfortunately my transmitter does not have idle trim. Apparently traxxas went the low route on them

 

[Rolex]

What transmitter do you have?
A high idle can also be caused by the LSN being too lean. A good idle is the happy medium between a quick take off, and a steady idle without creep. Temp also matters here.
When the engine is up to running temp, pinch the fuel line HARD as close to the carb inlet as possible and tell us how many seconds you counted before it stopped. It will speed up and then quit. (Count..."One thousand one, one thousand two, etc.)

 

[Rdizz]

What transmitter do you have?
A high idle can also be caused by the LSN being too lean. A good idle is the happy medium between a quick take off, and a steady idle without creep. Temp also matters here.
When the engine is up to running temp, pinch the fuel line HARD as close to the carb inlet as possible and tell us how many seconds you counted before it stopped. It will speed up and then quit. (Count..."One thousand one, one thousand two, etc.)

The one it came with. Bare as can be really. I guess I should invest in a new transmitter...

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[Greywolf74]

I would take the cheap Dynamite tools back or maybe keep it as emergency back up tools but what you really want to get is a set of Team EDS tools. You want tools that are made from rolled spring steel with precision ground tips to minimize stripping and maximize bite. Any tools made with any sort of die cast procedures will pale in comparison to these tools.

 

[Nitro4910]

The Idle Gap will not change by adjusting the LSN, to change the Idle Gap you need to turn its screw.
An easy way to set the Idle Gap is with a #60/#61 drill bit shank, or a large paper clip, this will you close to 1mm.

If your turning the Idle Gap screw and it has no effect on the idle gap then check it to see if it turns in or out of the carb housing when you turn it.
If it just spins in the housing without going in or out then the housing is stripped and you need a new carb body.

Idle Gap screw

LSN/LowSpeedNeedle(idle circuit)

 

[ninnon]

The one it came with. Bare as can be really. I guess I should invest in a new transmitter...

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There's no need for a new transmitter if the one you've got now works fine, as for the problem, reset the throttle linkages off with the remote all centred, then give the engine a 2mm gap, and put servo horn back on, if this doesn't fix the problems you can fine tune with the remote.

 

[Rdizz]

There's no need for a new transmitter if the one you've got now works fine, as for the problem, reset the throttle linkages off with the remote all centred, then give the engine a 2mm gap, and put servo horn back on, if this doesn't fix the problems you can fine tune with the remote.

unfortunately the remote does not have throttle trim.

 

[ninnon]

unfortunately the remote does not have throttle trim.

Aaah, yes that would help- silly me not reading the question properly, if you want a new one just get a system off a reputable car like a Hyper 7 or Trophy 3.5 (or spektrum)

 

[Rdizz]

The Idle Gap will not change by adjusting the LSN, to change the Idle Gap you need to turn its screw.
An easy way to set the Idle Gap is with a #60/#61 drill bit shank, or a large paper clip, this will you close to 1mm.

If your turning the Idle Gap screw and it has no effect on the idle gap then check it to see if it turns in or out of the carb housing when you turn it.
If it just spins in the housing without going in or out then the housing is stripped and you need a new carb body.

Idle Gap screw

LSN/LowSpeedNeedle(idle circuit)

According to this, I do need a new carb.
However it is hard to explain it does move in and out the screw is not stripped but it Does not affect the carb gap.
It does however seem to loosen it as seen in the video I posted. In other words it does not affect the gap unless I apply brake. But does not change gap on the fly if that makes sense. I do have a few more things to try as suggested in this post hopefully I will be able to do them tonight.

 

[Kris407]

it does sound like a new carb is the easiest thing to try and i bet Traxxas will send you one. Not having trim adjustments is strange considering my Rustler from 1999 had trim knobs, but hey using the brake and turning the idle screw is the same thing as trimming the throttle down and turning the screw.
The idle screw is at least doing something by turning in and out and stopping the carb slide when the brake is applied when you screw it in enough. if you pop off the servo arm from the carb slide and gently hold the slide closed and screw in the idle screw (whileholding it closed) almost all the way in (a couple turns past flush) and that gap doesn't grow, its an odd carb issue because its obviously not a stripped idle screw.
This will help you in the long run in one way or another

 

[Rdizz]

Here is the Transmitter it came with, Sorry previous link was broken.
Did not have time to work on it today got home late and it's raining (demotivation) I will be calling Traxxas tomorrow explain the situation see if I can get a new carb on the way.

And yes they really cheaped out on the new remotes from what I can see

it does sound like a new carb is the easiest thing to try and i bet Traxxas will send you one. Not having trim adjustments is strange considering my Rustler from 1999 had trim knobs, but hey using the brake and turning the idle screw is the same thing as trimming the throttle down and turning the screw.
The idle screw is at least doing something by turning in and out and stopping the carb slide when the brake is applied when you screw it in enough. if you pop off the servo arm from the carb slide and gently hold the slide closed and screw in the idle screw (whileholding it closed) almost all the way in (a couple turns past flush) and that gap doesn't grow, its an odd carb issue because its obviously not a stripped idle screw.
This will help you in the long run in one way or another

Also Just so you guys know the screw will not go flush or past flush really, it gets very tight there and I am told to not put any force behind it.

 

[Kris407]

Thats great advice, never force anything on your vehicle.. nothing hurts more than causing your own problem.
the controller looks a lot nicer now

 

[Rdizz]

Thats great advice, never force anything on your vehicle.. nothing hurts more than causing your own problem.
the controller looks a lot nicer now

Ya it doesn't look bad and honestly if feels great in the hand I mean wonderful. Just lacking any sort of features.

Also the transmitter is directional, I don't feel that is a great idea It is supposed to give you greater distance however you turn your hand away from the vehicle and you will lose connection...

 

[Nitro4910]

After watching your video, pop the ball cup off the throttle slide, and push the slide all the way in.
Now set your idle gap to 1mm.

Now you need to adjust your throttle linkage, it should not be pushing in on the slide during braking like that, I assume the stop collar is too close ans the spring is being fully compressed.

Do you have a pic of the entire throttle linkage you can post.

 

[Rdizz]

After watching your video, pop the ball cup off the throttle slide, and push the slide all the way in.
Now set your idle gap to 1mm.

Now you need to adjust your throttle linkage, it should not be pushing in on the slide during braking like that, I assume the stop collar is too close ans the spring is being fully compressed.

Do you have a pic of the entire throttle linkage you can post.

I can take one real fast.

Just made a quick video of it's operation. I got the throttle adjusted to about 1mm I used a Large Paperclip as a reference..

When you say pop the ball cup off the throttle side I assume you are talking about where that blue boot is where the servo connects to the carb?

After watching your video, pop the ball cup off the throttle slide, and push the slide all the way in.
Now set your idle gap to 1mm.

Now you need to adjust your throttle linkage, it should not be pushing in on the slide during braking like that, I assume the stop collar is too close ans the spring is being fully compressed.

Do you have a pic of the entire throttle linkage you can post.

Ok if i understand you correctly I am doing this correct? (made my own instructions lol)

And the last step would be to move that collar on the linkage shaft a tad closer to the servo Correct?

One last question Should i position the Throttle screw to a more open position before i start this?

 

[Nitro4910]

That vid looked much better, notice how on braking the carb slide isn't being pushed into the body.

Yes to set the idle gap, pop the throttle linkage off the carb slide, set the idle gap, using light pressure on the slide using your finger, put linkage back on and check the operation.
The gap should not change on braking, if it did then adjust the little collars on the linkage.

It looks like you got the pushing in on braking sorted out.