Nitro Rustler Idle Problems?...

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rdizz

RCTalk Basher
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
Location
Raleigh, NC
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
Hey guys, I am a total newb to Nitro RC.

Now I just bought a new Nitro Rustler went through the break in process. So far so good. car has much power and runs great However...

It just seems to idle way to high. It wants to just go on grass or street it takes off. So i read into it more read the manual watched videos the whole nine and attempted to adjust the idle screw (counter clockwise for lower idle speed and clock wise for higher) But the problem is the screw is doing absolutely nothing? it does not affect the butterfly inside the carb at all? loosening it changes nothing? Am I doing something wrong here?
 
With the engine off and the electronics turned on remove the air filter so you can see the carb gap and apply the brake. if there is a gap, (keep on the brake) it should close slowly as you make small counter clockwise turns to the idle screw, it should open slowly as well when turned clockwise. just to see movement either way is a good sign for the idle screw and 1mm is typical starting point. it sounds like the clutch is engaging for some reason which i have found out causes insane idle problems. It's just something typical when learning Nitro engines :) see if this link helps any:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/
 
I actually tried this method you suggested, The carb gap does not change while turning the idle adjustment screw.
 
how much gap is there currently? does the carb open when throttle is applied and close back to starting point when released?
i am assuming it does. It wants to idle with the wheels spinning fast like this? skip to 2:50 to where i star her up.

this is the reason for the problem in the video.. the clutch spring broke, but your clutch is different i bet.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1212.JPG
    IMG_1212.JPG
    341.2 KB · Views: 193
If the Needle does nothing, then you may have a broken carb on your hands (may be easily fixable)- or if the gap does change, but the wheels still spin, then it may be a broken clutch spring :)
 
The good news is my experience with Traxxas Nitro Rustler support was the best. i love the Rustler but i'll never miss the old EZ-start, lol.
 
The good news is my experience with Traxxas Nitro Rustler support was the best. i love the Rustler but i'll never miss the old EZ-start, lol.
never used ez-start, looks cool though...
 
Well its not even a day old yet that would suck... So I just played with it a bit, I did the "pinch test" concluded the LSN was too lean. I adjusted it seemed to help a bit got it to idle up slightly then shut down right at or after 3 seconds. But still it wants to move.

When I have the filter off and I adjust the Idle needle i can detect absolutely no change at all in the gap.

Attempting to attach pics of the gap and idle screw so you can see how far it is backed out compared to the gap.

idle%20screw_zps1jjpgd0z.jpg


Idle%20gap_zps7afjcqwk.jpg


Also Thank you guys so much for responding I am a total newb to this and loving it so far, just don't want to break my "investments" so early lol. Again Thank you!!

how much gap is there currently? does the carb open when throttle is applied and close back to starting point when released?
i am assuming it does. It wants to idle with the wheels spinning fast like this? skip to 2:50 to where i star her up.

this is the reason for the problem in the video.. the clutch spring broke, but your clutch is different i bet.
Hmm, possibly have a brand new Rustler with a bad spring and carb?
 
Last edited:
take the idle needle all the way and check that it isnt broken. Make sure that your servo isnt preventing the screw from changing the idle gap. take the blutch bell off and make sure your clutch shoes and clutch springs inside havent broken. jsut a few things i can think of off the top of my head to check.
 
take the idle needle all the way and check that it isnt broken. Make sure that your servo isnt preventing the screw from changing the idle gap. take the blutch bell off and make sure your clutch shoes and clutch springs inside havent broken. jsut a few things i can think of off the top of my head to check.
O lord... lol.

Ok remember I am totally new and now I am scared haha.

Ok so just back the needle all the way out until it literally comes off the carb?

Also how would I check to see if the servo is messing with it?

and finally, ill check inside the clutch bell soon as I find out where it is LOL! thanks again for all your help!
 
O lord... lol.

Ok remember I am totally new and now I am scared haha.

Ok so just back the needle all the way out until it literally comes off the carb?

Also how would I check to see if the servo is messing with it?

and finally, ill check inside the clutch bell soon as I find out where it is LOL! thanks again for all your help!

For a start, unscrew your idle screw most of the way out, if not all the way and check for any damage. 2nd, the clutch bell is usually a black case with a gear on the end- situated between the fuel tank and engine- below the carburetor. 3rd, the servo are the motors that control the opening and application of the brakes on your vehicle, they also control your steering. Using this information check that A) your servo's work correctly and open and close the carbs slide. b) I wouldn't need to worry about the clutch yet. c) check your idle screw (once out) for damage. Here's a pic of a clutch bell:
 

Attachments

  • $_35.JPG
    $_35.JPG
    5.3 KB · Views: 186
For a start, unscrew your idle screw most of the way out, if not all the way and check for any damage. 2nd, the clutch bell is usually a black case with a gear on the end- situated between the fuel tank and engine- below the carburetor. 3rd, the servo are the motors that control the opening and application of the brakes on your vehicle, they also control your steering. Using this information check that A) your servo's work correctly and open and close the carbs slide. b) I wouldn't need to worry about the clutch yet. c) check your idle screw (once out) for damage. Here's a pic of a clutch bell:

Allright, I am going to run to the store get some better quality tools and report back.
 
yeah get a good set of tools for like 20-30 bucks, they're essential. Don't worry about breaking anything, it will be okay the worste part is down time and as you learn that is all but eliminated with the durability of a nitro engine. You're gonna start buying certain parts in double so you have them ready to go if something breaks or wears out. It's not expensive or difficult to repair these vehicles, once you spend a few hours learning about it. It's not free either, lol. I also agree with @ninnon that it is probably not the clutch considering its new, but a new car shouldn't have a broken carb either sooo, yeah.
By the way your low end and idle screws will unscrew all the way out just like removing a screw from a piece of wood, but some have Orings and such so pay attention and be gentle. But don't be scared or worried, the car will be fine no matter what you do it can be fixed :)

a small set of spring loaded pliers, needle nose pliers and snips are good to have.. like these i got at home depot for $7:

now that i see how far the idle screw is backed out in your photo i would think the carb would be completely closed if you applied the brakes, it's a good ways out for the gap to be that wide. imo
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1230.JPG
    IMG_1230.JPG
    174.5 KB · Views: 190
Last edited:
yeah get a good set of tools for like 20-30 bucks, they're essential. Don't worry about breaking anything, it will be okay the worste part is down time and as you learn that is all but eliminated with the durability of a nitro engine. You're gonna start buying certain parts in double so you have them ready to go if something breaks or wears out. It's not expensive or difficult to repair these vehicles, once you spend a few hours learning about it. It's not free either, lol. I also agree with @ninnon that it is probably not the clutch considering its new, but a new car shouldn't have a broken carb either sooo, yeah.
By the way your low end and idle screws will unscrew all the way out just like removing a screw from a piece of wood, but some have Orings and such so pay attention and be gentle. But don't be scared or worried, the car will be fine no matter what you do it can be fixed :)

a small set of spring loaded pliers, needle nose pliers and snips are good to have.. like these i got at home depot for $7:

now that i see how far the idle screw is backed out in your photo i would think the carb would be completely closed if you applied the brakes, it's a good ways out for the gap to be that wide. imo
Yes, good tools always help.
 
yeah get a good set of tools for like 20-30 bucks, they're essential. Don't worry about breaking anything, it will be okay the worste part is down time and as you learn that is all but eliminated with the durability of a nitro engine. You're gonna start buying certain parts in double so you have them ready to go if something breaks or wears out. It's not expensive or difficult to repair these vehicles, once you spend a few hours learning about it. It's not free either, lol. I also agree with @ninnon that it is probably not the clutch considering its new, but a new car shouldn't have a broken carb either sooo, yeah.
By the way your low end and idle screws will unscrew all the way out just like removing a screw from a piece of wood, but some have Orings and such so pay attention and be gentle. But don't be scared or worried, the car will be fine no matter what you do it can be fixed :)

a small set of spring loaded pliers, needle nose pliers and snips are good to have.. like these i got at home depot for $7:

now that i see how far the idle screw is backed out in your photo i would think the carb would be completely closed if you applied the brakes, it's a good ways out for the gap to be that wide. imo

With the brakes applies the gap does not change. Ya regardless of where that idle screw is the gap does not change at all.

Ok here goes nothing, First i am going to back the screw out and post pics of results.

Ok, New update I Am currently uploading a video to Youtube. So you guys can see what I am trying to describe

What I have noticed is the idle adjustment screw DOES work when backed out ALOT however it is not making adjustments on the fly...

What i mean by that is after i apply brake the gap will be almost closed this is with the screw almost just hanging out. However when i release the brake at this point the gap does not reset back to standard idle setting? Is this normal or a symptom of something else?

Here is a link to the video Also i got a horrible cold... so cut me some slack =p

 
Last edited:
if the idle screw is that far out and you hold the brake and tighten the idle screw until its a turn or more past flush and that gap does not start to open at some point, i would think its a carb and/or idle screw issue. It sucks to experience that right out of the box but it's common for high performance machines to experience technical difficulties even when they are brand new so don't get discouraged, i am curious to hear some other opinions.
 
if the idle screw is that far out and you hold the brake and tighten the idle screw until its a turn or more past flush and that gap does not start to open at some point, i would think its a carb and/or idle screw issue. It sucks to experience that right out of the box but it's common for high performance machines to experience technical difficulties even when they are brand new so don't get discouraged, i am curious to hear some other opinions.
Will give that a shot now.

What it seems to be doing is adjusting the idle only while brake is applied. After doing what you just said. (Pic included) When applying brake the gap does not change at all but it does stay open.

In the pic i tried to get a shot of the screw as well. Well at least it appears the screw is in fact doing something, however it is only noticed while the brake is applied? Is this normal? It was my understanding this was an "idle adjustment screw" lol My thoughts are the carb is in fact bad after all.

Remember while adjusting the screw without using brake or opening it up the carb does not change at all. it only seems to affect it while braking. I guess at this point i should attempt to Richen the LSN see if i can get the idle to calm down a bit?

20150208_190004_zps8cemyxum.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top