New HPI Savage X 4.6

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Should I add head shims to this lrp 32 to run 30% nitro or am I good as stock?
 
Not sure about head shims, but you might need a few glow plug shims. This is what I do, take the button head off the engine to see it the glow plugs you are using stick out past the inside surface of the buttonhead, if it does add as many shims as it takes to ensure you glow plug doesn't get the chance to come in contact with the face of the cylinder.

Side note: This may or may not chage the timing of you engine, since the more shims you use will cause a slight delay in the ignition cycle. If you find that the delay is becoming harder, and harder to tune around, then you might need to look into different glow plugs. Ones with less threads on them, so you can use less shims.

Glow plug shimming is done mostly to combat early detonation in engine from the use of fuel w/higher nitro content. If you lean out too far w/ fuel that has a high nitro content your engine could start to have early detonation cycle. I run 30% w/standard glow plug shims (1) and haven't noticed any early detonation, but I'm still on the rich side of the tune.
 
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alexander speaking of 30% i just went out today and upped my nitro from 20 to 30, the guys at my hobby shop said my 4.6 will like it better with the cold plugs, so i bought about 8 cold plugs a gallon of 30% and a new chrome HPI pipe(old pipe i had was from an old .21 GS storm with a small stinger) so tomorrow I'm gonna figure out the power difference, I'm always up for trying something new, you think the 30% performs better noticeably?
 
Yes, that being said some 30% are better than others, have started to use werks 30%, and after readjustment of my needles, my engines seemed to run cooler, and have more power on tap.

I also started using cold plugs when I upped to 30%, only to notice that it was harder to start an engine in the Canadian climate, so I asked Robin over at ERCM what my probem was,.....He said he couldn't help me hes not a psychologist, but he did say the issue I was having with my engines could be solved by switching out my McCoy - 9s with McCoy - 59s
 
its all about the oil content.........High oil makes tuning difficult, increases temperature and increases detonation ...

30% fuel is great as long as you dont buy some basher blend with 14% oil...in that case take the crap back and buy some race fuel...10% oil or less....
 
A guy I know was real skeprical about bones brew. He said it was hype. He tried some and did a 180. I might switch to that for my clocked engines instead of traxxas.

Regrding content. You guys are more savvy than I. If someone were to test me on my engones to see if I could tell if it were 20, 25,
 
I'm running 30-8 championship blend fuel, man this stuff put my 20% to shame, by a long shot. no more 20% for me, it makes it look sad lol
 
I'm running 30-8 championship blend fuel, man this stuff put my 20% to shame, by a long shot. no more 20% for me, it makes it look sad lol


I'm excited to try it. The plan is to run some in the lrp and get it tuned great and get a good feel for it then drop in the picco so I can really get a feel for the difference. Neal said he can't even get a solid dyno number as it keeps breaking the dyno gears. Impressive.

I bent one only the upper shock bolts. Found it while I was switching to Tonys screws so hopefully they will do better. Surprised it bent as I didn't really jump that much. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401660154.354980.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1401660166.082075.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1401660173.794280.jpg
 
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So couple new things.

1. Ordered a buku clutch set up. Gonna give that a shot on the picco as I think it will handle the power better and be easier to tune each shoe.

2. Ordered a set of mounted badlands. Hope that will save on weight and still give great traction. I'm thinking with the picco this might help save on driveline repairs.

3. Ordered some Bones Brew 30% break in fuel. According to him as well as many who have used it, 1 quart will break your motor in 90% or more. Save me running a gallon plus through it to break it in. I got the case of 30/8 from him already, and thats what I will run once break in is done.
 
so you think the picco boost .28 has more power than the LRP .32? I've not done much research on the boost.
 
hmmm, might look into this. wife is getting me a new engine of my choice for fathers day. thanks for the input
 
Heres a video of me jumping.

[ame]http://vimeo.com/98339305[/ame]

Went pretty well. It wasn't 100% tuned as that was the maiden voyage of the bones brew 30% nitro 8% oil. Definitely made a difference, ran cooler, was easier to get tuned that far and made a ton of power. Only things that failed were the stock exhaust mount. I knew it was a weak point. That ERCM pipe is heavy.

Fuel tank mounts. The last big jump on this video sheared the fuel tank right off. Snapped both mounts in half and blew the air intake filter off. Those are some pretty big air jumps. Way over my head. If I had to venture a guess it would be somewhere around 12-13 feet high. So some damage is expected, but its a work in progress.

So I ordered the right kind of exhaust mount, aluminum tank mounts from GPM as well as some other assorted goodies from GPM in aluminum to add some strength. More to come once they are here.

This down time is allowing me to get the Buku clutch on the Picco and get it installed.

On a side note, lining it up for jumps on that narrow ramp was much easier this time around. I changed to Badlands tires, and did the HPI suspension upgrade kit to adjust camber. It corners much better. Might be the tires, might be the kit. Who knows, all I know is I like what I am seeing.
 
the truck looks to run great, and i like the video. NICE AIR! most people are afraid to get big air like that. if you didnt break anything these runs, you would have been doing it wrong! its nice to see some good control going in mid-air also. Props to the vid:)
 
Thanks, yet I did attempt one back flip and landed square on the top of the truck from about 15ft up. So that was enough for me. I've gotta figure out how back flips work on these trucks and on my particular ramp as well. Ill get it, just might take some experimentation.

Got the best prepped and ready!

IMG_5196_zps910a3c7c.jpg


Hope to maybe have time to start breaking it in this weekend. I'm going to do the bones brew break in, so it should go quick. I'm super stoked to see how it runs. I'm sure I'm gonna love the top end coming from an LRP.

So as far as update goes, I got the right type of pipe mount now.

IMG_5198_zps81afb075.jpg


I also got the GPM aluminum fuel tank mounts in. High quality looking parts. The screw holes arent 100% perfect in lining up. Not bad or anything and will certainly work, just not as perfect as it could be. I certainly dont think these will ever break!

I also ordered some trakpower speed wash and speed prep detailer. Hope they work good.

Where I run can be quite dusty at times. I've always run outerwears filters on my K&N filter for my quad and been impressed, so I got one for the truck too. And it seems that the shocks are a big collector of dirt and grime that is tough to clean, especially on the exhaust side. So I also ordered some shock covers for them. And per your recommendation I also ordered TBR front and rear bumpers as well as the wheelie bar.

Thats all for updates for now.
 
Got a couple tanks through the Picco. Holy loud batman. Totally different sound than the 4.6 or the LRP .32. Way louder and meaner sounding. Deeper sound. It was insanely rich from the factory. So rich I couldnt get it to start. The roto start would not even turn the engine over until it was heated to 160+. Good compression. Once I got it going it ran strong, and the first little bit it got up to 210 but ever since that first run its struggled to get to 170. So Ill either lean it or wrap the head in foil to finish the break in.

You can tell there are some serious horses in there wanting out. The buku clutch is nice. Smooth power delivery. can't wait to start getting it fine tuned.

The carb surprised me. After running a tank it was actually still cool to the touch. So cool in fact that it was condensing water on the end of it since it was really humid yesterday after the rain. Thats a well insulated carb. I was having a nightmare boiling fuel in that LRP, I think this is a totally different animal. I hope to be able to be jumping it before too long. Maybe get it broken in this week. I'm actually tempted to get an hudy break in bench so I can control and fine tune things better. I'm sure this is not my last motor nor my last RC truck, so I may go that route.
 
not trying to poke holes i swear!
but i would consider moving your fuel filter to a different position, if it bounces really hard it could crack the filter, or it could cut the fuel line if it bounces too hard against the cooling head
 
not trying to poke holes i swear!
but i would consider moving your fuel filter to a different position, if it bounces really hard it could crack the filter, or it could cut the fuel line if it bounces too hard against the cooling head

No problem, I can take ideas and criticism. Thats what forums are for.

Actually I see what it appears like in the photos. But actually it sits more right over top of the fuel tank lid so I dont think it is in danger of coming in contact with the cooling head. Actually I'm not sure it is even necessary and I might just remove it all together.
 
Actually I see what it appears like in the photos. But actually it sits more right over top of the fuel tank lid so I dont think it is in danger of coming in contact with the cooling head.
What if you ran it around the engine? You could put some of the heat shields on the fuel line and secure the filter to the shock tower or roll cage.

Actually I'm not sure it is even necessary and I might just remove it all together.
I would definitely keep it, it's cheap insurance against engine damage. I don't know about you but I don't refuel in @Rolex's waxing room so there's always a chance for crap to get in my tank.
 
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