New HPI Savage X 4.6

[gablett]

So I ended up ordering a onyx 235 and 2 reedy 1700 liFe receiver batteries. Hopefully that will give me good run times and get the most out of these upgraded servos. They are 6.6v.

Also ordered a 6 pack of McCoy medium glow plugs since I've read from several people they are much Bette than the colds they come with.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Looks good man, get some TBR Bumpers to protect it now. They have front and rear as well as a rear version with a wheelie bar built in.

I cannot find the one with the embedded wheelie bar? Do you have the part number? I really like TBR product so would like to check this part out I've dealt with Rich a few times and their customer service is worthy of mention. I

I need a wheelie bar I can land on from ~8-10 feet. I know it's silly (but this whole damn hobby is anyway) ;-). I want to back-flip off my ramp while riding a wheelie and then maintain the wheelie when I land and ride it until I shift into second gear. I'm real close to pulling it off but the landing from the needed height when back-flipping causes the bar to flex and I cannot maintain the wheelie when I land. I can do each of those independently but now just need A rigid wheelie bar. My ultimate goal is to do a lap around an offroad track riding a wheelie. I think I can actually do it with some practice. ;-)

 

[SchrodeMode]

I cannot find the one with the embedded wheelie bar? Do you have the part number?

Its the one I linked to, it comes with the bumper and T-bar. The T-bar bolts to the bumper, you can see it in the pics.


Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Its the one I linked to, it comes with the bumper and T-bar. The T-bar bolts to the bumper, you can see it in the pics.


Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Ah...see it now. Did not even notice it--was looking for a wheelie bar with one wheel. I'll try the front bumper as most damage I incur always seems to be up-front anyway.

 

[gablett]

Does that gap look ok? That's with throttle closed.

 

[bobaloohoo]

this isnt an answer to your question.. but i wish my XL was that clean lol

 

[Rolex]

A proper gap can not be assumed by measurement or sight. That's only a proper starting point. It needs to be set in conjunction with the LSN to set a proper idle RPM.

 

[gablett]

this isnt an answer to your question.. but i wish my XL was that clean lol

Lol yea it hasnt even been fired once yet. Give it time.

A proper gap can not be assumed by measurement or sight. That's only a proper starting point. It needs to be set in conjunction with the LSN to set a proper idle RPM.

Ok, I had just read to make sure to check that it is close before starting to tune. Just wanted to make sure it was reasonably close to where I should start.

 

[gablett]

So its been almost a week now trying to get a pipe ordered from ERCM and I get no response. Is there another pipe out there that is comparable, or is this really work the hassle and wait?

 

[HPI-Killer]

So its been almost a week now trying to get a pipe ordered from ERCM and I get no response. Is there another pipe out there that is comparable, or is this really work the hassle and wait?

Call ERCM by phone, his job ties him up badly.
IMHO waiting for a ERCM pipe is worth it, the power increase alone is huge, and the sound output s damn near deafining. So damn loud!!!

 

[gablett]

Call ERCM by phone, his job ties him up badly.
IMHO waiting for a ERCM pipe is worth it, the power increase alone is huge, and the sound output s damn near deafining. So damn loud!!!

Thats one of the things that scares me with this pipe is the noise. I don't live in the middle of nowhere. And I really dont need to piss my neighbors off anymore than nitro will already I'm sure. Is it really that deafeningly loud?

 

[gablett]

I just talked to him and he is having email problems, so he can't respond to anyone. Called and got the order submitted, should be shipped mid next week he says.

 

[gablett]

So I'm breaking this thing in and have a couple questions.

1. The clutch with wheels off the ground keeps engaged or stutters. No matter how low I try to get it to idle the wheels never completely stop.

2. The engine temps climb pretty quick. Like 260-270 in just a few minutes. I'm getting smoke and even raw fuel out of the exhaust and everything except idle screw is stock. What should I do? I did the pinch test and it seems to do just fine. Idle up just a touch for a few seconds.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

So I'm breaking this thing in and have a couple questions.

1. The clutch with wheels off the ground keeps engaged or stutters. No matter how low I try to get it to idle the wheels never completely stop.

2. The engine temps climb pretty quick. Like 260-270 in just a few minutes. I'm getting smoke and even raw fuel out of the exhaust and everything except idle screw is stock. What should I do? I did the pinch test and it seems to do just fine. Idle up just a touch for a few seconds.

1. Engaging is fine. Stuttering, however can be an issue. Can you elaborate on that. You have to remember your tune is ALL about your LSN and idle gap. You would be shocked at how much you can lay down your idle when you have your LSN set correctly. Just remember those two play in tandem....

2. Climb pretty quickly just at idle? Or after WOT? Or....? First, I would not worry about temps. I've had engines scream their tits off topping at 290, and some that were sluggish at 230 (but that is just what my temp gun said). I know everyone is going to disagree with me on that, so take this with whatever grain of salt you want. Go by what you see/hear. If the engine is too lean, you will know it. Temp guns are just an 'estimated' temp.

Is the idle two-staging? If so, I would lay it down not bring it up as you noted. Try fattening your top end 1/2 turn, leaning your LSN 1/8 increments and lay down your idle. You have to be patient. There is no 'hard rule' about your engine, no matter what you read on here. Just keep slowly learning what you can and do not be afraid to make lean until you notice a decreased performance. I've seen guys with MTs who note their engines are blazing but when you see them they are saying "air...I need air! as they are almost 4-stroking. I understand as their temp gun probably read 250 and it freaked them out....but once again go by performance. What is happening after a hard pass? That will pretty much tell you almost everything you need to know.

Long-winded version of saying even if your temp gun shows 260-270 but the engine seems fine...I am missing the issue. I run almost ALL my .25-.28 engines in the 260-270 range. Or at least that's what my temp guns say they are temp wise. I just check my temp when I have it where I want so I know 'oh....so this engine kicks ass at 270, eh? Hell yeah!" ;-)

One other thing to note....you are aware of the 'mid-tank lean' with this vehicle, correct? If you are seeing this spike at mid-tank then that is probably playing a large role in it...Hope this helps some.

 

[gablett]

1. Engaging is fine. Stuttering, however can be an issue. Can you elaborate on that. You have to remember your tune is ALL about your LSN and idle gap. You would be shocked at how much you can lay down your idle when you have your LSN set correctly. Just remember those two play in tandem....

2. Climb pretty quickly just at idle? Or after WOT? Or....? First, I would not worry about temps. I've had engines scream their tits off topping at 290, and some that were sluggish at 230 (but that is just what my temp gun said). I know everyone is going to disagree with me on that, so take this with whatever grain of salt you want. Go by what you see/hear. If the engine is too lean, you will know it. Temp guns are just an 'estimated' temp.

Is the idle two-staging? If so, I would lay it down not bring it up as you noted. Try fattening your top end 1/2 turn, leaning your LSN 1/8 increments and lay down your idle. You have to be patient. There is no 'hard rule' about your engine, no matter what you read on here. Just keep slowly learning what you can and do not be afraid to make lean until you notice a decreased performance. I've seen guys with MTs who note their engines are blazing but when you see them they are saying "air...I need air! as they are almost 4-stroking. I understand as their temp gun probably read 250 and it freaked them out....but once again go by performance. What is happening after a hard pass? That will pretty much tell you almost everything you need to know.

Long-winded version of saying even if your temp gun shows 260-270 but the engine seems fine...I am missing the issue. I run almost ALL my .25-.28 engines in the 260-270 range. Or at least that's what my temp guns say they are temp wise. I just check my temp when I have it where I want so I know 'oh....so this engine kicks ass at 270, eh? Hell yeah!" ;-)

One other thing to note....you are aware of the 'mid-tank lean' with this vehicle, correct? If you are seeing this spike at mid-tank then that is probably playing a large role in it...Hope this helps some.

#1 Because I thought that the wheels should not be engaging when held off the ground I tried to get it to idle so slow that the clutch would engage and disengage rapidly, like stuttering. But now that I know thats ok, even though the manual says to tune the engine so that when the truck is suspended in the air the tires do not spin. I think the manual is wrong.

#2 Yea really quickly. Like room temperature to 260 in just a few minutes. Thats not moving, sitting on my bench with stock settings and a paper clip gap in the carb slide.

Yea I'm just gonna get it on the ground and start doing short 1/4 throttle runs for a tank of fuel and see how it does. I think this idle 2 tanks sitting on a stand method of break in is a poor method. Theres no air moving over the cooling fins, no load on the engine or change in RPM to get a feel for if its loading up and how it idles when the carb is closed back down. I've done 1 1/2 tanks letting it warm up and shutting it off and putting the piston and BDC and I think I'm done with that.So many conflicting ideas out there on break in.

Yea I'm aware of that, I always made sure it was over 1/2 tank.

On a side note, while I had the engine out putting on a vented 16th bell I put in HPI aluminum clutch shoes. I have the stuff to do the ofna throttle mod so I will do that this week. I also got this:
http://www.amain.com/product_info.p...Super-Heavy-Duty-Driveshaft-Outdrive-Axle-Set

But I'm gonna hold off putting that in until the stock breaks/bends. Might as well get some life out of it. I think I can see a LRP .32 in my near future to go with my ERCM pipe that should ship this week.

 

[bobaloohoo]

its not a poor way to break it in, the first 2 tanks do not need any air flow or any RPMS going through the engine, go ahead and break your engine if you want, run it around for the first 2 tanks. your engine wont last long. stick to the traditional break in methods and do it as you should.

 

[gablett]

its not a poor way to break it in, the first 2 tanks do not need any air flow or any RPMS going through the engine, go ahead and break your engine if you want, run it around for the first 2 tanks. your engine wont last long. stick to the traditional break in methods and do it as you should.

I disagree. There are tons and tons of racers that use the new school method of break in and their engines run just fine.

Anyway, ERCM pipe should be in the mail end of the week and I have an LRP .32 ordered to mate up with it. Is the .32 a direct drop in using the flywheel and clutch from the F4.6?

 

[SchrodeMode]

its not a poor way to break it in, the first 2 tanks do not need any air flow or any RPMS going through the engine, go ahead and break your engine if you want, run it around for the first 2 tanks. your engine wont last long. stick to the traditional break in methods and do it as you should.

I haven't done a bench break in on a single one of my engines and they've taken a few gallons each and are still going. Traxxas doesn't recommend a bench break in either, why are they suggesting people not do it as they should? How long would my engines last if I had done it as I should?

 

[bobaloohoo]

racers do not use the same motor month to month, or year to year. keep that in mind, racers run their engine to the moon to get all they can, that doesn't mean that the motor will last forever, as a basher it has been more succesful to break in a motor the old school way because the engine would need to last longer. I have one GS storm .21 that i broke in the traditional way and I'm on its 12th gallon of fuel and its 10 years old, running strong. my first GS storm .21 wasn't broke in b using the bench method and i didnt even get through a gallon of fuel before it lost its balls.

i learned from trial and error on my part, maybe someone else will have better luck, but with a motor that has lasted 10 years, ill stick to my method, as an old school follower and promote it.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

racers do not use the same motor month to month, or year to year. keep that in mind, racers run their engine to the moon to get all they can, that doesn't mean that the motor will last forever,

Okay, so with all due respect I have to say this is probably the most inaccurate thing I've ever read on the Internet with respect to this hobby.

You have basically said "racers don't know how to properly take care of their engines" and/or "they don't care about the longevity if their engines"... Or did I misread that? Not sure why there always has to be a delineation.I realize there is somewhat of an 'anti-racing faction' on this forum. I'm basing it on statements such as this. I've yet to see any racers on here bad-mouth bashers so would ask that we try not to categorize and instead just be nitro heads. ;-)

My son and I both bash and race. We love both equally (me probably the former) Why does one have to be one or the other? Seems to me there is a right way to take care of an engine and.....

What I can tell is you is that as we entered the race scene, I found it to be the exact opposite of what you are saying. I found those who race nitro engines to be the ones who best have their pulse on how to properly break in and tune engines. I'm not the only person whose had that experience. Not sure where you race, but I don't know ANY guys who change engines month to month---and we have factory drivers at our tracks here whom I know for a fact big name sponsorships and allowed x number of engines but they keep the same engine. Who do you know that changes engines month to month? If you cannot tell me anyone, then at least tell us who you know that has had a decreased life span of an engine because they heat-cycled it...or did it in a way that you disagree with. Guys, we need to be very careful about blanket statements like this because people new to the hobby get very confused

In fact, I cannot think of a single 'racer' who ruined or decreased the life-span of his engine because they 'run their engine to the moon'. However, I know a lot of so called 'gurus' who only bash and have popped multiple engines because they have it all figured out and don't want to learn from anyone. In fact, the times I've heard things such as this it's because someone has not taken the time to properly learn how to tune, and when they see other engines outputting REAL power they immediately think think something is wrong.

The goal of tuning is to get the engine optimized, correct? By that you want the engine to be as powerful as it can be...or am I missing the point of tuning an engine?

If you lean it too much it will not be powerful so I don't understand what you are stating. Unless you are saying one should not make your engines as powerful as they can be they can last forever? I know I'd rather have an engine scream it's ass off for 7 years vs one that ran like sh*t for 10 years.

Take this how you will...I really mean no disrespect to you personally, and.want to ensure that people understand both 'sides' to a statement like you made here.

I might not be a guru like a lot of you on here, but I too have learned from trial and error. I have 15+ engines and have tried a multitude of break in procedures, etc. Every engine I've owned is still going strong as are the 10+ I have broken in for others. Additionally I only THOUGHT I knew how to tune until I started seeing how 'racers' tune their engines...and as stated they are taking damn care of their 'fancy' engines...know that. I see absolutely nothing wrong with learning how to properly squeeze power out of your engines. As noted, isn't that what tuning is?