Yup, that would be the next step. When you're looking into the carb and pumping the throttle trigger, is it moving at all in there? When you let off the throttle, does it close if you push on the carb link?
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Mattyfats420
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #22
yeah the carb moves when i pump the trigger, and when i push on the link it will close the carb only when the car and remote are off. i just can't get the opening smaller than 1/4 way closed useing the idle screw.
just one quick question too with my ignitor. do you guy recommend a battery or a chargery type ignitor for the glow plug?
just one quick question too with my ignitor. do you guy recommend a battery or a chargery type ignitor for the glow plug?
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2000delux
RCTalk Racer
If the carb is open when tx and car are on but you can easily push it closed when everything is off (if you push it gently when it's off and adjust the idle screw does it move either way??) it's possibly the throttle trim like Rolex was saying earlier, there will be an adjusting knob / switch somewhere on the radio that can move the assembly so that the carb is closed when trigger is at neutral position.
True, we don't know if you've done that. There will be a trim knob to center the steering servo, and another trim knob to raise the idle when starting or warming it up. Turn the throttle trim knob all the way down and watch the barrel.
Now tell us where you're at.
Now tell us where you're at.
Mattyfats420
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #25
I've done that using the trim knob and it still doesn't move at all. I'm pretty sure that i have to adjust the linkage to get to to that 1mm mark. I've tried all the suggestions on here and i got nothing. the only thing I'm left with is adjusting the linkage.
Remove the screw in the center of the servo horn. lift the horn off, and move it over a few splines till the carb is almost closed. Tighten it back down and make sure it will still open all the way, and close without pushing on it.
You will now need to adjust your brake linkage also.
You will now need to adjust your brake linkage also.
Brushlessboy
RCTalk Addict
On some of my cars when i pulled off the air cleaner I found I had to adjust the throttle linkage to close the carb to 1mm. It has happened to me three times now, but of course you have to open the throttle up to make sure the carb is still opening right up.
Mattyfats420
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #28
ok so the servo horn is the one with the low end needle screw. take that off and move it over a few splines? the adjust my linkage?
2000delux
RCTalk Racer
Servo horn is the little plastic bit sitting on top of the servo that turns either way when you apply throttle or brake (about 1.5 - 2" long) it'll have a screw (probably philips head) in the centre which you can undo (while holding the horn) then pop off the plastic piece and turn it so that the throttle is closed when the servo is at neutral position - you can then screw it back up and adjust the brake linkage.
When the servo horn is off, turn on your Rx and Tx, turn the throttle trim all the way down. That puts the servo in the right place for starters.
When you move the carb linkage by hand, does it move freely in and out when the linkage is not connected? If so, close the carb to about 1 or 2 mm with the idle screw and a little push to the closed position. Now that the carb is about in the proper idle position, reset your servo horn, screw it down and make sure everything moves freely with the radio.
Start it and see how it idles. you may have to raise or lower it with the idle screw. When the idle is good, start your break in. You'll also have to adjust your brakes at this point.
When you move the carb linkage by hand, does it move freely in and out when the linkage is not connected? If so, close the carb to about 1 or 2 mm with the idle screw and a little push to the closed position. Now that the carb is about in the proper idle position, reset your servo horn, screw it down and make sure everything moves freely with the radio.
Start it and see how it idles. you may have to raise or lower it with the idle screw. When the idle is good, start your break in. You'll also have to adjust your brakes at this point.
Mattyfats420
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #32
thanks alot everyone, i finally got my carb to the 1mm spec it said. now i just have a problem with the breaks. my carb closes all the way when i go forword on my controler which makes the car stall. other then that its been running good and i started my idle break in. hopefully tomorrow ill fix the breaks and get it on the road for my 1/4 throttle break in. wish me luck and if anyone know how to adjust breaks. please let me know. and thanks again for everything. if not for all of you i would be paying the place i bought the car from 50 bucks to do a break in for me =]
That's what the idle adjustment screw on the carb is for. It keeps the carb from closing when you apply the brakes. You need to screw it in a bit so the carb doesn't move when you transition from "idle" to brake.
Correct. With the trim all the way down, and the brake applied, adjust the idle screw.
Mattyfats420
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #35
Great thanks alot everyone, i think i should be up and running soon! if not I'm sure you will hear from me again lol
Mattyfats420
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #36
ok i just had my first say out with my on road nitro. i havent had that much fun since i was a little boy hehe. it was great. i found out by talking with a local nitro head that i had a broke clutch spring. with his guidance we fixed the problem and i was on my way. great day so i just wanted to thank everyone for there help and tips.
just one question before i start again tomorrow. how important is getting a temp gauge? and if it is that important does anyone know any good site for a decent cheap one? the ones in my LHS were $60+
just one question before i start again tomorrow. how important is getting a temp gauge? and if it is that important does anyone know any good site for a decent cheap one? the ones in my LHS were $60+
Mattyfats420
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #38
is there any way of telling your engine is to hot without a temp gauge?
CharliesTheMan
Gone - bye bye.
There's some nice infrared temp guns available online for around 20 bucks, I almost got one on ebay really cheap but I was too busy to bid at the last minute, so check around.
Cupooterluvr
Hardcore RCTalk User
You can get a Duratrax gauge for 20 bucks on Towerhobbies.com. Other than that, put a drop of water on the head right next to the glow plug hole. Sizzles and pops, too hot, evaporates after more than 8 seconds, too cold, between 4-6 seconds, just right.
