Just got my Savage X 4.6 - dies when accellerating

[ratchet1974]

Hey Guys,

I just got a Savage X the other day for my anniversary gift ! I was so on the fence between going with a nitro or Brushless electric, but here I am with the Savage X 4.6. Nitro is sooooo cool, I'm glad I ended up with THIS nitro vehicle

Anyways, I watched the instructional DVD & read the manual. I wanted to make sure I break the thing in as directed. The guy at the hobby shop recommended Odonnel 25% fuel. Everything was going well, but I have a bit of an issue.

Here is where I stand:

Sun Evening - Idled the engine (actually just above idle - the wheels were spinning. After it ran out of gas, I left it alone for the night (plenty of time to cool)

Monday Evening - Started it, accellerated it a bit slowly - not quite to full throttle to clear the oil out (shown in DVD). Then I went to drive it & it stalled as soon as I accellerated with it on the ground. I had to start it a about 5 times, it finally stayed running. So I followed the instructions and accellerated to about 1/2 throttle & let it coast. I repeated this until it was out of fuel. I noticed it was accellerating faster and faster with the same amount of throttle input.

Tonight - It started easy, but died any time I touched the throttle.

After reading a lot on-line I tried turning the LS needle in abu 1/8 turn, it did it again So I tried another 1/8 turn. Same thing. So I called it a night since he mosquitos were out. I ended up starting it about 10 times, then quit for the night.

Both the HS & LS needles are about flush with the case now. The glow plug looks like it's fine (all of the element turns red when hooked to the ignitor.

I hate to lean it out too much more.

Any thoughts / help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Rolex]

You need to adjust the needles as it breaks in. It's still set very rich from the factory.
If it starts and idles, let it run till it warms up before making any adjustments.
Turn the LSN in another 1/8 turn and slowly accelerate till it shifts into second. Give it full throttle at that point. If it bogs you'll need to lean the HSN.
With the engine at running temp, continue doing this, and lean the LSN by 1/16 turns till you get a good idle and takeoff. (You will probably have to turn the idle screw down till you get the idle set properly)
Lean the HSN for WOT.
If you make any adjustments when the engine is cold, you will not get good results once it warms up.
For a good long life on the engine, keep a close eye on your temps, and don't run it flat out till you have about a gallon through it.

 

[Racer 1966]

Put the lsn back where it was originally, turn in the hsn about a 1/4 of a turn. That should keep it running but may need more. Then only 1 hour increments when final tuning. After the hsn is set, adjust the lsn needle for crisper response when taking off from a stop. Do you have a temp gage to check with? It would really help when diagnosing a problem.

Also being new, check all the screws for tightness and loctite(removable) any that are in metal. These would be the engine mounts,engine plate mounts and the upper end of the TVPS. Also do the grub screws in the drive cups on the trans/diffs. This may save you a spur gear and a "why won't the truck move?" headache. :thumbup:

Oh, and congrats on the new truck!

 

[ratchet1974]

Thanks for the quick response / tips.

I'll tinker with this a bit more tomorrow.

Racer 1966, I have a temp gun. When I checked the temps while running on the box, I was hovering around 190-200 at the glow plug. I didn't check it while running it on the ground though. What's a good method for checking the temp to optimize it, ? Should you run it bring it back by you & check, or crank it up on a box and check at full throttle, which isn't under load ?

Thanks for helpin a nitro NOO B out.

One other question. My fuel supply line jus touches the crankcase - is it ok to loosen the fitting on the carb & twist it away from the crank case a bit ?

Thanks for the quick response / tips.

I'll tinker with this a bit more tomorrow.

Racer 1966, I have a temp gun. When I checked the temps while running on the box, I was hovering around 190-200 at the glow plug. I didn't check it while running it on the ground though. What's a good method for checking the temp to optimize it, ? Should you run it bring it back by you & check, or crank it up on a box and check at full throttle, which isn't under load ?

Thanks for helpin a nitro NOO B out.

One other question. My fuel supply line jus touches the crankcase - is it ok to loosen the fitting on the carb & twist it away from the crank case a bit ?

Here is the temp gun I own:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96451

 

[Racer 1966]

Do not check temp at wot with no load on it, in fact don't even run it like that please! I check temps periodically under different conditions. Running it and bring to you is best.

Yes you can move the fuel line.

 

[ratchet1974]

Thanks Racer,

I got the thing running a bit better the last couple of nights. 4 or 5 tanks through, following the HPI break in procedure, then I leaned it up a little.

The LSN was over 1 turn out from flush, so I put it at flush & started there. As of now, it's about 1/2 turn in.

My HSN is about 1.5 turns in.

Running it and bringing it to me, its around 220. I don't plan on leaning it out anymore for right now.

It seems to be running good & will pull the front wheels with no problem, so I added the wheelie bar.

The only hing I think is a bit weak is the brake system. I think if you put a washer (or something) at the spring where it goes to the servo arm, it would help a lot. I say this because some times it ends up un the edge of the servo arm & sometimes, i tucks under & hits where it's supposed to. You wouldnt think it's make that big of a deal, but that extra 1/16 " (inconsistency) or so makes a big difference in stopping.

Other than that the truck is awesome.

This is a great site!

 

[Rolex]

As you run several more tanks through it, you might lean out the HSN a bit more. Don't hurry with that, but take your time with the break in.
You have an adjustment knob to tighten the brakes if you feel it's necessary, or you can remove the spring and replace it with a piece of fuel line for a more aggressive brake.

 

[ratchet1974]

Thanks guys.

I think I had a little oil on the brakes when it was running rich at first.

Cleaned them off, adjusted & it seems to be al lot better. After a while you get some fade. I cleaned them off & added an exhaust deflector to get the exhaust out to the side a bit. We'll try again tomorrow !