Break in problem

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blind4x4

RCTalk Rookie
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Location
San Antonio, TX
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Hi guys. Okay I’m new to all this. Hi have a Savage X 4.6 that I never got running and stored it years ago. I finally got around to it and the break in is really getting me. The thing is, I can get it to turn on and take off glow starter as long as there is throttle. Si basically, as I have to set my controller to have throttle set up so when it starts it can stay on. As I attempt to decrease the number so the wheels won’t be spinning like crazy it just cuts out. I can’t get the engine to idle without the throttle engaged. I hope this all makes sense. I have everything set to factory settings according to the HPI manual. So I am just stumped.
 
Hi, okay I went ahead and got to the carb to see it better and adjust the screw like in the video. The thing is, that I don’t see it moving at all. I have one picture with the screw going in and the other with the screw out. I don’t see a difference. What could be happening? Never adjusted this before as this engine is just being broken in. Tell me what you think.

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Ah okay wrong screw sorry
Okay now I got it to move. According to the video he said larger engine 1 mm. This is the picture of how it looks now. Hopefully it’s at 1mm, it looks it.
 

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id suggest you download owners manual . so then you know where the idle screw is. I see it in your picture I also see that the carb idle is little under what one wants . its the brass screw at end of carb.
 
I mean the motor is the Spektrum 1250Kv 8s motor and the esc is the MMX which you can find easily to look at the specs. Sorry if I seem like a smart arse

That looks bigger than 1mm. I'd use a 1mm rod and measure.
if he had to add throttle trim unlikely over 1mm and that varies model to model.that purple boot and the black plastic arm just dont look right to me. is there a sharp piece of metel wires tuck in that boot? looks like it is
 
Hi guys, let me try the paper clip to see.
Okay here are some pics for y’all to check out. Let me know what you think. It’s seems like as long as there is throttle the engine stays on. But as soon as I start to trim it back it will stop the engine. Can I still break it in if the wheels are spinning a bit, not fast but still going? Or figure this out first?
I have also decided to take the exhaust and point it down a bit at an angle. I got this feeling that the oil is filling up somewhere and possible cutting it off. Not sure just trying things out. As I noticed a whole lot of oil come out after I tipped the exhaust pipe downward. Here is a pic of it.
This is what’s under the boot.
When I did the paper clip trick I did have to adjust it, opened it up a bit as it was too small the opening. So that trick is a good one. Thanks

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The smallest pinhole in the fuel line can also screw things up, the fuel line is very cheap so I would replace it all.
 
Okay will order another fuel line. Do you have any recommendations on which brand or just one I find on Amazon?

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It seems like the exhaust pipe was not working out for it. It was not creating enough pressure to the fuel tank to keep it flowing once it was running. I tried my best to tie it down with the zip ties, but it was still not working enough to keep up. I changed it out and after messing with the idle it began to stay on a bit more each time. I am still working on getting the tires not to spin while I have it on my stand, but when I place it down on the floor it stays put. I do notice that the force is still there as I see the gears kinda vibrating around a bit, like it wants to go on it’s on, but can’t. Not sure if this is okay or not, but when I give it throttle on the controller it moves just fine and starts going. It’s a good thing I don’t mind tweaking theses things, as changes will need to be made I assume as the weather changes or just to fine tune it among other things. Let me know what you think and guide me in any way that you feel will help me on this Nitro RC journey. Thanks
 
Tires moving on stand, generally a sign that the idle speed is a little high. Or, could have weak, or broken clutch springs.
 
I am still working on getting the tires not to spin while I have it on my stand, but when I place it down on the floor it stays put. I do notice that the force is still there as I see the gears kinda vibrating around a bit, like it wants to go on it’s on, but can’t. Not sure if this is okay or not, but when I give it throttle on the controller it moves just fine and starts going.

That's not the worst thing, it can just indicate that the driveline has very little friction throughout, so even the minor amount of friction that makes it through the clutch bearings turns the wheels. If it doesn't bog down when you hold the wheels still, it's fine. Lots of nitros will lazily turn their wheels at idle when you pick them up, even with the clutch fully disengaged.
 
Nice. That’s good news, thanks! I can just go ahead and start enjoying this truck. Thanks again for the info.
 
Okay guys back again. Have done the break in. Have started running the way the manual tells me too. So far it’s fun, just one thing though.. it’s a gas guzzler. Even at idle it just drinks it up. I take it for a spin on moderate throttle with a half tank, I haven’t actually timed it, but went around a few times and done, nada. I’m like, geez what do I do next?
 
Okay guys back again. Have done the break in. Have started running the way the manual tells me too. So far it’s fun, just one thing though.. it’s a gas guzzler. Even at idle it just drinks it up. I take it for a spin on moderate throttle with a half tank, I haven’t actually timed it, but went around a few times and done, nada. I’m like, geez what do I do next?

That's to be expected; it's a good thing, the excess oil washes away the fine metal "grit" that's release by the break-in, as the moving parts polish themselves to their running finish.

You can start leaning out the low-speed needle and tightening the idle gap as it'll naturally begin running smoother / faster than when you began the break in.
 

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