How to add Anti-Squat to Team Associated Pro4 SC10 / Rival MT10

[Lumikko]

I noticed the Pro4 SC10 (and, by extension the MT10) has arm mounts and insert pills that suggest a possibility for adjustment. Looking at the basic setup I found no setup sheet but I measured -2.2 degrees of anti-squat (equal ride height front and rear). That’s pro-squat really, and goes against every setup guide I know of!

All the other Associated off road vehicles have +1 to +2 degrees of anti-squat as the standard setup. (Yeah I know it’s a rebranded Helion but still.) I can’t mention a single race-worthy truck or buggy from the last 30 years with pro-squat rear suspension.

So let’s fix that. I removed the rear skid plate and turned the C-block upside down. It would interfere with the skid plate so that has to be addressed, but the fronts of the hinge pins were elevated quite a bit. Great!

My first thought was to file the arm mount until the skid plate fits back on and that’s what I did. However, I think filing relief cuts to the skid plate itself would be a better idea in order to retain full strength of the arm mount.

With the parts back together I measured a healthy +1.2 degrees on anti-squat. The truck handles a lot better now: has more grip when accelerating, doesn’t slap the chassis so easily, and I can soften the rear springs for more overall grip.

This mod costs nothing, doesn’t require special skills or tools, and is reversible in case you don’t like it.

 

[iGmole]

Can confirm, doable with simple hand tools, relatively easy and has a dramatic effect on how the rear suspension behaves. I did it on my Pro4, will do to my MT10 as well. It suffers from the pro-squat even more, I suppose due to the considerably shorter wheelbase.

 

[tntpoof]

pics help iGmole

 

[iGmole]

Alright fair enough. This is really bad craftmanship but if you follow these steps you can do it (better than I please) on your Rival MT10. My method is slightly different from Lumikko's way, I do not remove the rear assembly in its entirety:

1: Remove these ten screws. You will need HEX1,5 - HEX2 - HEX2.5 (thank you Team Associated)

2: Wiggle out this mid and rear diff cover plastic bit

3: Remove the two screws holding the hinge pin holder:

4: Start filing. I used the width of the file as a gauge to determine the width to file away. I just filed the top part somewhat flat. Accurate enough for this old worn out part.

5: The part will look something like this after you are done

6: Put it back in and don't forget the two screws, don't ask me why I am reminding you of this

7: This part might give you a bit of stress. Put back the plastic diff cover thingy. It is best to slide the rearmost thinned out part under the rear bumber first and then sort of bend the rest in by lifting from the mid section of the part and pushing down from the front section. It is plastic. It will obey your fingers.

8: Put them screws back in. I had to replace the rear screws because they're old and rounded from many screw-ins and outs. Tadaa! Finished!

 

[Lumikko]

Yeah it’s definitely easier to remove only the rear skid plate. You can access the C block from there.

I had the whole truck apart for … legal reasons or something.

In case removing metal is not desirable, it can be avoided if you file reliefs to the skid plate instead.

 

[Nightcrawler67]

Does this apply to the newest of the Pro4's?? I just bought mine a week ago and have noticed that it wants to spin out quite quickly.

 

[islandlife]

This is for the current pro4 sc10

 

[Nightcrawler67]

This is for the current pro4 sc10

Ok, ty

 

[Lumikko]

Does this apply to the newest of the Pro4's?? I just bought mine a week ago and have noticed that it wants to spin out quite quickly.

Yes, the truck is the same as before in this regard.

I have not found the C-block to be weakened from filing but I’m still going to file the rear skid plate instead. I have new arm mounts from Fastrax and I don’t want to ruin the blue color.

My Pro4 had very stiff diffs and I rebuilt them to get easier control on power. The rear certainly was not 3k cst as in the manual.

In case you want to further tune the anti-squat, kick-up, or rear toe-in, the old EB410 pills from Tekno fit the Pro4 arm mounts. The part number is TKR6544.

 

[Nightcrawler67]

Yes, the truck is the same as before in this regard.

I have not found the C-block to be weakened from filing but I’m still going to file the rear skid plate instead.

My Pro4 had very stiff diffs and I rebuilt them to get easier control on power. The rear certainly was not 3k cst as in the manual.

In case you want to further tune the anti-squat, kick-up, or rear toe-in, the old EB410 pills from Tekno fit the Pro4 arm mounts. The part number is TKR6544.

Thanks for the info. I went ahead and worked the skid plate instead of the c-block.

I wanted to check things out and pulled the rear diff. Found it was burnt(melted) and the bearing mount was broken off. I haven't even had the damned thing for a week yet. UGH.

 

[Lumikko]

Ouch, that looks bad!

Any idea what caused it?

I once used the long 3x18 mm screws from step 32 instead of the shorter 3x12 mm screws in step 28. The extra length pushed the rear diff bearings and could have broken them. I only caused minor damage to the rear gearbox #25806.

When mounting the rear skid plate, make sure that the longer screws go in the rear holes.

 

[Nightcrawler67]

Ouch, that looks bad!

Any idea what caused it?

I once used the long 3x18 mm screws from step 32 instead of the shorter 3x12 mm screws in step 28. The extra length pushed the rear diff bearings and could have broken them. I only caused minor damage to the rear gearbox #25806.

When mounting the rear skid plate, make sure that the longer screws go in the rear holes.

Omg, you're absolutely right. I used the wrong screws. When I put it back together after the c-block mod. Drove the screw straight into the bearing. WHAT A F'UP!!!!!!