Engine break-in stand ?

[Remy]

Any one have any insight ?

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?products_id=4531

 

[sl0eg1n]

i tried it out once and wasn't really impressed. you are better off just keeping your car on the starter box and follow the josh cyrul WOT method.

 

[kurtf5]

I prefer just having the car elevated on a padded block and letting it idle. Then when it gets the strength to move ill drive slow circles around the back yard...then when it really gets going I'm tearing it down the road on full throttle and landing massive jumps lol

 

[Plaidfish]

I will never waste time doing a break in in the car again....stands are the only way to go IMO.....WAY EASIER to get stuff done...you eliminate alot of mechanical issues that your RC may be having and causing the breakin to be frustrating.....you can make one for a little less but that seems to look like a nice lil unit.......I need to make another one as my friends is leaving FL in 2 weeks and I will not be able to use it anymore........we charge 20 bucks for breakin so it pays for it self eventually.....be surprised how many people are willing to let you do the breakin once they know you're not gonna mess it up.....

 

[Diver6127]

i tried it out once and wasn't really impressed. you are better off just keeping your car on the starter box and follow the josh cyrul WOT method.

Not for Remy. Not even joking about this one.Remy, if you want to know why, contact me.

Remy, for you, I would suggest doing a rolling break in or heat cycle.

 

[kurtf5]

this might sound weird...but i enjoy the break in!
I just love the first time you start the engine and the gradually increasing power you get out of it.
Also when you think it couldnt get any more powerful, you ccontinue to lean the engine and get even more power!
The first start is frustrating though because usually the needles are in completly whack places so you have to tweak it quite abit just to get it to start.
Plus the fact that the engine has never ran fuel in it so its all tight and ignorant lol
But once it starts, its go go go from there!

 

[Plaidfish]

I can see that being fun until you've done 10 or so in a few months....it gets old quick....also the idling is NOT a good idea....the breakin is definately the most critical stage that will determine your engines life...I notice can run mills hotter and they aren't affected by it as much.....also keeps mech pinch longer too....I'll still have the hard pop on my mills when I used to loose that after 1 -2 gallons I still ahve it after 3 now

when you break in you want temps at least 200*F.....if it's too cold you are hammering the piston head into a cone shape...Not good....

 

[kurtf5]

I just do what the engine manual says!
And it doesn't change my opinion, if you can break in correctly it will be drivable within 3 hours! That means drivable though, not running its best. And i ran my swift in in the cold nearly a year ago now, and it still runs the same if not alot better than it did just after break in.

 

[robmob]

If you use a stand like that and have a bump start engine, how do you start it? Will you need to use one of those hand-held starters to turn the prop like the flyers use?

 

[Plaidfish]

I just do what the engine manual says!
And it doesn't change my opinion, if you can break in correctly it will be drivable within 3 hours! That means drivable though, not running its best. And i ran my swift in in the cold nearly a year ago now, and it still runs the same if not alot better than it did just after break in.

Fine, just trying to give you some help....

Robmob,
yep....
we had it rigged (bolted) to bump box but w/o a cage around our prop it was getting a little crazy.....they need to be bolted to a heavy bench or something solid.....so the starter is sort of necessary on ours......the packaged units do look nice..that one for 90 bucks might be bought when I get a new mill.....I really am not patient when I get new mills and found the stands to just be awsome.....

 

[kurtf5]

i have an RC plane, also an electric starter motor.
It pushes against the nosse cone and forces it to spin around.
Quite handy really.

 

[robmob]

I have 3 mills that need to be broken-in. One of those stands is looking tempting...

 

[HeartBreak]

I might have to invest in a CV.12 or somethin of that nature just to test it... If I could watch someone do a stand-breakin, I wouldn't be so leary to try it.

 

[Plaidfish]

It's actually easier than doing it in the car...w/ a stand you can almost set it and forget it for 2 mins.....once it's running you just richen the hell out of it til it hits target temp....let it run...shut it down.....piston to BDC and do it over again...after 2 tanks lean it to raise temps a lil every 2 tanks.....if you can do it in the car, this is like a dream compared to that.....do yourself a favor and set up th eexhaust pipe w/ a silicone extension tube from the pipe tip to a bucket of water......this will quiet it down alot.....otherwise you feel like your sitting in a NASCAR pit right next to a real BB engine....

 

[sl0eg1n]

why pay more money on a break-in stand when all you have to do is install the engine into your car and run the WOT method by Josh Cyrul. i have broken-in many engines with this method and i have had no ill-effects (4 this year). one of the fastest nitro guys in the NYC area, Jamie Corrado, introduced me to this method. he breaks-in all his engines this way and all of his engines have gone over 7 gallons. with the break in stand you will have to follow the same break-in method.

this method rocks. i used it on 5 engines this past nitro season. 2 of these engines were modified novarossi engines. remy, you have personally witnessed the power of these 2 engines (diver's max power and my hot mod N12LL3). you can have an engine broken-in and track ready in about 4 hours.

here is the link.
http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php