Convert 8IGHT-T 2.0 to brushless...

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tomyknoker

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Hi guys,

I have had my Nitro for about 2 years and love it, but the bottom line is in my area with the noise it's just too loud, so I have been thinking about converting it and wanted some opinions...

  1. I assume I buy this? http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA0912
  2. Do I also then need to buy a motor? What is the best?
  3. By Electric they mean Brushless? And can the Brushless speed compete with the Nitro powered car?

Thanks in advance all!
 
That is the conversion kit that you need. You will need to buy a 1/8 esc/motor combo, as well as batterys and a decent charger. As for performance, a quality brushless system will outperform any nitro engine.
 
+1 Mudslinger....I would recommend the Tekin 1900kv motor with an RX8 ESC on 4S if you wanna race on a track. If you just want awesome top end and dont plan on running on a track then Run the Tekin 2650kv on 4S with an RX8. If you want stupid sick uncontrollable speed then use a Castle 2200KV on 6S: )
 
I want craaaaaaazy speed! Guys this is great :)

Guys this is so helpful thanks, can you clarify what the '6S' element of the motors is? Is it power?

The motor that will give me crazy speed, will it be good on the track and off?

Is this what you were suggesting, http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ster-1-8th-Scale-Brushless-Car-Package-2200kV –*is there any opinions on which is better, Tekin or Castle or are they similar?

Also the Losi versions of these motors sell for $50-$80, are they crap? http://losi.com/Electronics/Motors_ESCs.aspx

As far as batteries go, would it be this type of thing I need?

http://www.modelflight.com.au/products/Losi_LiPo_Battery_1400mAh_3S_20C_Long_EC2-10621-38.html

Also saw these, http://www.modelflight.com.au/products/Losi_LiPo_Battery_6000MAH_2S_60C-10622-38.html
 
"6S" stands for "6 cell lipo". The link you posted for the Castle equipment is the one I was talking about. You will NOT be able to use this kit on a track with a 2200kv and 6S lipo. In fact you'll have a hard time on a track with a 2650kv on 4S. a 1900kv on 4S is just about perfect for track racing conditions. plenty of low end acceleration and a decent amount of top speed. Personally for the money i prefer to buy Tekin over Castle so if you want just top speed and you're just gonna be bashing then I would try the Tekin RX8 and 2650kv on 4S. You can buy the Castle 2200kv and run it on 6S if you want but theres a couple things to take into consideration. First off Yes, it will give you about 8900 more RPM to go that route but a 6S pack is going to cost more than a 4S. Its also going to weigh more which if you are jumping your kit will cause it to be off balance on one side. Personally the only time I would recommend a 2200 on 6S is for doing high speed on road runs where every RPM counts. Even at that though I prefer the RX8 ESC over the MMM. Thats your call though. I'm just throwing ideas out there. Tekin has better quality electronics IMO. If you are racing you will definitely want Tekin over Castle because Tekins are sensored castles are not. Technically Tekin have whats called Dual Drive which combines the best of both sensored and sensorless. You can check out my video series "Electrics 101" HERE. One of the videos on motors explains what Dual Drive is. might not be a bad idea to watch the whole thing eventually. They are long and kinda dry but I attempted to pack them full of all the info a new user could want. :) That being said castle isnt crap either. castle has the second best electronics but only if you're bashing IMO.

The Losi motors you linked are for tiny little 1/32 scale "micro" RCs and they are just fine for those kits.

As for a lipo my favorite budget lipos are gensacearespammers from Hobbypartz. Id recommend something in a 40C rating or higher. 40C gensacearespammers only come in 2, 3, and 4S packs though. If you want a 6S pack you either have to go down to 30C (Something I dont recommend for the electronics you are looking at using), Go up to 60C (To expensive IMO), or run a 4S and 2S lipo in series. If you want to go a little bit cheaper route the same website sells "Sky" lipos. Not quite as good as gensacearespammers but pretty close and you can save a few bucks. Again I wouldnt recommend going under 40C regardless of brand and my video series deals with lipos and ESCs and pretty much everything else you need/want to know starting out :)

Hobbypartz also sells a decent beginner Lipo Charger. You can look at the Thunder AC6 or if you want one with a little more power for a few more bucks look at the Thunder AC680.
 
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Thanks so much! I have started to watch your videos, very interesting :)

I'm slowly getting my head around this now, I do want to try and take the car to the track more so wondering if it's worth putting in the 1900kv on 4s? What do you think?

Also if you have some time can you explain the correlation between the lower/higher S and the lower/higher kv? I am trying to get my head around what the higher/lower does and difference it makes to the car when driving...

Thanks again!
 
The "s" as in "6s" is referring to the number of cells in a lithium polymer battery. The more cells in the battery equals more voltage. So a 4 cell lipo battery (4s) is 14.8 volts where a 6 cell (6s) lipo has 22.2 volts. As for the KV rating of a brushless motor, the higher the KV rating= higher rpm's with less torque. A lower KV rating= lower rpm's with more torque.
 
+1 Mudslinger....I would recommend the Tekin 1900kv motor with an RX8 ESC on 4S if you wanna race on a track. If you just want awesome top end and dont plan on running on a track then Run the Tekin 2650kv on 4S with an RX8. If you want stupid sick uncontrollable speed then use a Castle 2200KV on 6S: )

The "s" as in "6s" is referring to the number of cells in a lithium polymer battery. The more cells in the battery equals more voltage. So a 4 cell lipo battery (4s) is 14.8 volts where a 6 cell (6s) lipo has 22.2 volts. As for the KV rating of a brushless motor, the higher the KV rating= higher rpm's with less torque. A lower KV rating= lower rpm's with more torque.

Thanks! I was looking at this and thinking it might be the way to go, as the Losi kit is $80 and this is $129 with setup all complete and apparently more evenly spaced out, if you could let me know your thoughts that would be great!

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr4508-v4-brushless-kit-for-losi-8t-truggy-1-02-0-for-42mm-motors/

The only item I was worried about was it says for 42mm motors, not sure if they are all standard?
 
If you have the money to spend I would recommend spending it and doing the Tekno conversion. I wasn't aware of the Tekno conversion back when I bought my Losi conversion kit or I very well might have gone that route myself.

Motors do have standard sizes and your typical 1/8 scale motor (670 can size) is 40mm wide but if you include the small fins that most motors have on them they are right at 42mm. So ya in terms of diameter any regular 1/8 scale motor will work with that conversion kit. The one thing that isnt always standard is the length of the motors. Make sure the conversion kit doesn't have any length restrictions and you are good to go. If it does have length restrictions then just make sure the 1900kv will fit.

To answer the question about whether to use the 1900kv or not I would say yes definitely use the 1900kv if you want to race on the track. It has the right amount of acceleration and top speed that is apporiate for a track setting. It will still be plenty fast off the track too plus if you want a little more speed out of it you can throw a 5S pack in it and get some more top end. Watch motor temps if you go from using a 4S to 5S lipo though. more voltage will mean more heat if you are using the same pinion.

To expand on Mudslinger answer to your previous question let me throw in this. The voltage of the lipo directly corresponds to the RPM of the motor. For example if you have a 1900kv motor that means for every volt of electricity you put into the motor the motor will spin 1900 RPMs so a 1900kv motor on 4S would spin at approx. 28,120 RPMs. 4S lipo = 14.8V. 3.7V per cell times 4 cells. So, 14.8V X 1900kvA = 28,120 RPMs. 1900kv on 6S would be approx. 42,180kv. It should be noted here that the Telin 1900kv is NOT compatible with a 6S lipo I just used that as an example. The max cell count lipo you can use on a Tekin 1900kv is 5S. Most of this stuff is covered in my videos though so keep watching :)

As for the C ratings of the batteries, the C rating works in combination with the mAh value of the pack to determine the maximum amps the pack can safely output at a continuous rate. Example a 40C 5000mah pack can put out 200A continuously without damaging the lipo. 5000mAh/1000 = 5A. 40c X 5A = 200A. 25C lipos are to low to use in most 1/8 scale kits IMO. A 25C 5000mAh lipo only outputs up to 125A.

5000mAh pack are among the most common but you can use higher mAh packs for longer run times as long as the pack will fit in your tray. Always make sure the lipos dimensions fit your tray before buying a lipo even if its a 5000mAh pack. Now you can also go a little lower on C rating if you have a higher mAh value pack. for example if you had a 6800mAh 30C pack it can put out up to 204A continuous so its right on par with a 5000mAh 40C lipo in terms of the amperage output they can sustain.

Let me know if you have any other questions and finish watching the vids cuz they go into even greater detail on most of these topics. :)
 
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Thanks again!!! I have been watching the videos, great I need some time to get my head around them but getting there. I ordered the Tekno conversion :)

I have to buy the battery and motor and wanted your opinions!

For the battery I had a few suggestions to go with this, seem ok?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ttery-Pack-w-Universal-Connector-148V-5300mAh

Someone suggested the connections on Venoms are no good so I am best to get my own? I also looked at these...

https://www.amainhobbies.com/advanc...=14.8&sort=pop&filter_mfr=209&filter_cat=2382

From Tekno the guy there suggested the below, is that correct? As the motors are $$$ I want to make the right decision!

For your truggy, you might want one of the larger Tekin Truggy motors, like this 2250 kv, or this 2000 kv. This motors are longer and provide more torque and will run cooler, they do weigh a little more though. If you're going to be running mechanical brakes than the lighter buggy motor will be fine.

THANKS AS ALWAYS!!!
 
Noise? Has anyone complained? It doesn't make any more noise than a lawn mower so if no one is complaining, I would mess up a good nitro car just because I thought it might be annoying someone. I think you should run it until someone says something about it. You probably won't like electric. It's almost as exciting as watching paint dry and it sounds like an electric shaver with wheels! You can't scare people and dogs with something like that! For me it will always be nitro's or nothing!
 
Sorry the 1900kv is for buggies, IDK why I was thinking buggy. I would use the 2000KV Truggy motor for average course racing....if your on a small, tight track I would consider going with the 1700KV or if you are on a really big track or you just want top end for bashing then go with the 2250KV.

As for Lipos Id go with either this:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-5000-4s1p-hardcase-direct.html

or if you really want a crazy high C rated lipo then you could go with this:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-60c-5300-4s1p-4444.html

As for the 2 lipos you listed the ProTek will probably out perform the Venom on a track and it is cheaper but unless you are a serious racer the gensacearespammers packs should serve you very well and are considerably less expensive.
 
^+1. Buy your battery's from hobbypartz. The same quality at a much cheaper price. Sky lipo, gensacearespammers, and blue lipo are all good brands.
 
well if you got the money to buy that pack then I would suggest either getting iCharger306B or the Powerlabs 6 or 8. iCharger is about $175 and so is the PL6. However the PL6 doesn't have any adapters, plugs, or even a balance board. You have to order those seperately. I'm not 100% sure but I believe the iCharger does. The iCharger has a 30A max and the Powerlabs chargers are 40As. If your interested theres a guy over on the RCtech forums that sells custom made 24V 1100W and 1400W power supplies. He makes them buy running two 12V 550W server powers supplies in series. Heres a pic of my 1100W PSU that I got from him for $65 bucks. Its the big red thing with the NitroRCtalk.com sticker on it :) Works like a champ! If you want his contact info let me know and I'll get it to you.

67161_438459796201173_203891195_n.jpg
 
Hi guys!!!!!

I'm back, apologies for the hiatus I was away. I have the battery, motor and the Tekno chassis just arrived. After all of the questions with the battery charger I remembered I had this originally and it did cost a bit so I am hoping it will be ok to use? But of course would appreciate input from you experts!

http://www.imaxrc.com/B6AC-PRO.html

I did ask the people where I bought this from for help but they weren't that helpful the guy simply said 'Push it up to 5AV and away you go', when I read the instruction manual it was pretty in-depth so would hate to kill my battery...

This is the battery I ended up getting...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...-Case-Battery-Pack-148V-6400mAh-ROAR-Approved

I also noted on the A Main Hobbies site they say this about the battery...

Unlike most other Lithium Polymer batteries, these batteries can be charged at up to 2 times the rated current, or 2C! If your charger is capable, you can charge these batteries at 12.8A!

Not sure if my charger above can handle this?

THANKS as always guys :)
 
I still think you should have bought a gensacearespammers. gensacearespammers Lipos can be charged up to a 5C rate. Most people say you should only charge at 1C rate though for better battery life. Your charger will work however it has a max of a 5A charge rate. 1C for your lipo would be 6.4A. Thats fine though, it will just take you a little longer to charge it is all.
 
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