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thanks for the input. I wasn't wanting to go to something that wouldn't turn it into a part snapper, just something that would duplicate the power it has now. I took it out last night now that I upgraded a bunch of stuff and I was quite pleased with it's peed and performance. So your input was valuable. thanksThat's an oldest generation of emaxx. I have one, paid 100$ for it. It's a two speed.
I would highly suggest to keep it stock or if you convert it to brushless to go with very mild setup. Those cars are not designed for brushless power and if you put anything higher than 3 s you will destroy something as soon as you pull the trigger.
If you plan to bash and jump this thing it will brake very easy. It's not worth putting any money into it and actually by doing mods you will lower it's value. Some collectors would pay more for all stock vintage emaxx than modified. But it's not very sought after truck with crazy price.
If you really want to convert to brushless I would go with hobbywing quick run 120 ESC and 3660 motor with around 3000 kv stock gearing. You don't need different motor plate, just use one motor.
I have newest emaxx second gen brushless edition that I bought as a roller for 60$
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If you really want to push your luck that go with 3670 motor.
If you need something to bash and abuse Maxx v2 is the way to go
thanks. yeah, I don't want to get stupid with it and already planned on getting something newer that was designed for brushless power. All of the input was definitely helpful in my decision making process. thanks againBogda89 is right, a lot of older kits A) weren't built for modern brushless power & speed, and B) plastics become brittle with age.
If you want something fast to beat the hell out of, pick up an Arrma Kraton 6s EXB, Associated Rival MT8, E-Revo, etc.
Some of the vintage stuff can handle brushless alright, I've got a lot of vintage 1/10 Associated buggies and trucks and several converted 1/8 nitro buggies and truggies. But the old T-Maxx and E-maxx have 1/8 scale + weight with a lot of 1/10 part geometry, so they're not gonna take the torque like a beefy 1/8 critter or a 3.5 pound 2WD buggy or stadium truck that will mostly just spin tires.
1/10 short course truck electronics with moderate gearing, and use that is cognizant of the truck's age and weaker construction will allow you to enjoy it without destroying it.
Take it from someone who has overpowered a lot of vintage kits with both brushless motors and potent nitro engines.
There are definitely efficiency advantages to lipo/graphine and brushless if you select components that will more closely mimic the brushed motors. Some of my favorite vintage RC10 buggies and RC10T/T2 kits have fairly sedate 13.5T or 17.5T sensored brushless motors with ESC programming and gearing that is matched to the chassis, they're super smooth and controllable with long run times.