robmob
LET’S GO BRANDON!
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Excellence Award
Since my $2K T-maxx is just collecting dust, I decided to combine it with a brand new E-maxx with a Novak Brushless HV-Maxx system.
Here is a list of stuff taken from the T-Maxx:
• Airtronics 94358Z Steering Servo
• Alum Steering Servo Skid
• Hexcrews Screw Kit
• Hitec HS-925MGS Throttle Servo (now serving shifting duty)
• JR XS3 Radio
• Kippster Diff Cups with modified RRP Ring Gears
• Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles with Proline Maxx Ball Ends
• MIP Shiny CVD’s on all four corners
• Proline Maxx Alum Wheel Hexes
• Proline Maxx Performance Steering Kit
• Proline Powerstroke Shocks with heavy duty spring set
• RC Solutions Bulkheads front and rear
• RC Solutions Chassis Braces
• RC Solutions Skid Plates front and rear
• RPM A-Arms and Steering Knuckles
• RPM Center Skid
• RPM Lower Spring Cups
• RPM Shock Towers
• RRP 72T Metal Double Disk Slipper
Basically, the front and rear ends off my T-Maxx were added to the E-Maxx chassis.
I had to do some dremel work to get the Pro-line steering kit to work on the E-Maxx chassis.
I had to pick-up a set of MIP center CVD’s for the E-Maxx. The center CVD’s for a T-Maxx would not work.
Also installed a pair of 7 cell NiMH 3800’s along with some gorilla straps.
Deans connectors and RRP 76T spur added to my RRP dual disk slipper and a RRP 13T pinion finished the project off.
I sold off all the excess E-Maxx parts as well as the T-Maxx tranny. Going to keep my Sirio .18 as a back-up for my Revo.
This sucker has some sick torque that basically flips onto it's lid in first gear. Best to leave it in second gear all the time. Even then it will flop onto its lid if you mash the throttle. Not sure on the top speed, but it seems to be faster than my old Maxx with the .18 or my Revo. The low end will blow the doors off any nitro I have run.
I am glad I did this project. Sometimes I just want to run around the back yard or down at the local school grounds. Nitro in these areas is out of the question.
Next project……Irock Crawler.
Here is a list of stuff taken from the T-Maxx:
• Airtronics 94358Z Steering Servo
• Alum Steering Servo Skid
• Hexcrews Screw Kit
• Hitec HS-925MGS Throttle Servo (now serving shifting duty)
• JR XS3 Radio
• Kippster Diff Cups with modified RRP Ring Gears
• Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles with Proline Maxx Ball Ends
• MIP Shiny CVD’s on all four corners
• Proline Maxx Alum Wheel Hexes
• Proline Maxx Performance Steering Kit
• Proline Powerstroke Shocks with heavy duty spring set
• RC Solutions Bulkheads front and rear
• RC Solutions Chassis Braces
• RC Solutions Skid Plates front and rear
• RPM A-Arms and Steering Knuckles
• RPM Center Skid
• RPM Lower Spring Cups
• RPM Shock Towers
• RRP 72T Metal Double Disk Slipper
Basically, the front and rear ends off my T-Maxx were added to the E-Maxx chassis.
I had to do some dremel work to get the Pro-line steering kit to work on the E-Maxx chassis.
I had to pick-up a set of MIP center CVD’s for the E-Maxx. The center CVD’s for a T-Maxx would not work.
Also installed a pair of 7 cell NiMH 3800’s along with some gorilla straps.
Deans connectors and RRP 76T spur added to my RRP dual disk slipper and a RRP 13T pinion finished the project off.
I sold off all the excess E-Maxx parts as well as the T-Maxx tranny. Going to keep my Sirio .18 as a back-up for my Revo.
This sucker has some sick torque that basically flips onto it's lid in first gear. Best to leave it in second gear all the time. Even then it will flop onto its lid if you mash the throttle. Not sure on the top speed, but it seems to be faster than my old Maxx with the .18 or my Revo. The low end will blow the doors off any nitro I have run.
I am glad I did this project. Sometimes I just want to run around the back yard or down at the local school grounds. Nitro in these areas is out of the question.
Next project……Irock Crawler.
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