Savage .25 options

[srusinek]

Hello all. It's been a long time since I've been here due to everyday life. With working 6 days a week, going to the gym 3 times a week and other things, I had the most unproductive rc season since 2009. I normally run about 10 tanks in my Baja but this season I've only ran 3. So I'm looking forward to a better season in 2017 and I'm done running for the year with a workplace injury(broken ankle). Before I got hurt I was trying to repair my savage .25 and I removed the clutch bell to upgrade it. The bearings need to be replaced but I was going to wait until next season. So when I put it back together, the screw head broke off leaving the screw in the crankshaft. Has anyone had this happen to them? I was thinking of taking it to a machine shop to have the screw extracted but being that there's not much to work with, I'm open to ideas of how to remove it. On the other side, a new crank is around 85 bucks on Ebay and since this is a used engine, I'll probably upgrade to an HPI .28 for around 120 to 150. Thanks in advance for the replies.

 

[cbaker65]

Hello all. It's been a long time since I've been here due to everyday life. With working 6 days a week, going to the gym 3 times a week and other things, I had the most unproductive rc season since 2009. I normally run about 10 tanks in my Baja but this season I've only ran 3. So I'm looking forward to a better season in 2017 and I'm done running for the year with a workplace injury(broken ankle). Before I got hurt I was trying to repair my savage .25 and I removed the clutch bell to upgrade it. The bearings need to be replaced but I was going to wait until next season. So when I put it back together, the screw head broke off leaving the screw in the crankshaft. Has anyone had this happen to them? I was thinking of taking it to a machine shop to have the screw extracted but being that there's not much to work with, I'm open to ideas of how to remove it. On the other side, a new crank is around 85 bucks on Ebay and since this is a used engine, I'll probably upgrade to an HPI .28 for around 120 to 150. Thanks in advance for the replies.

You could try slotting the end of broken screw with a cut off wheel on a dremel to get a small screwdriver to work
it out ,may have to heat the end of the crankshaft ,but sense theres no pressure left on the screw ,it may come out fairly easy!

I've slotted tons of screws ,an keep a supply of cut off wheels handy!...

You also might can do what you call a cut crank conversion ,cut the crank ,an buy the screw on
clutch bell shaft adapter if your truck will eccept it!

 

[Certified Mike]

Slotting is a great option for sure! The other option I am thinking is called an EZ-Out. This is another common option and something that your machine shop would Def consider using. A drill press for this is great because you are going to want this to go as straight as possible.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ez+...&ved=0ahUKEwjEy7eU6pTQAhWi7YMKHfNaB0cQgTYImwQ
This is just an example of the type of extractor I am talking about. I don't know what the brand name of the ones I own. These are not the type of tool you want to try and save a buck on. Quality strenght metal is definitely important (although it's unlikely you'll be torquing on top much because of the sizes involved here).
Get the top of the screw as flat as possible and get a good center punch indent on the screw. I recommend using paraffin wax on this as it lets the drill slip rather than skate across the surface.
With a very steady hand or a well straightened poop in your drill press, you will be drilling a hole in the remains of the snapped screw (sizes will be provided and explained in your extractor kit). The drill opens a hole and the extractor turns in left handed or counter-clockwise. The threads on the extractor grab, the snapped screw turns out. Its a delicate process but is definitely doable.
In keeping with the slotting method, I have been so luck as to have had a flathead screwdriver turn the broken piece out and not ever having had to slot to begin with.
Whatever you chose to do, patients is the key! Def post back to let us know how you made out!
Good luck!!!

Just a heads up... They do make extractors that are designed for wood... They will NOT work in metal applications.

 

[srusinek]

Thanks for the replies and the advice. It's greatly appreciated. I will try to heat up the screw and see if I can get it out. There's not much to work with as far as the screw sticking out of the crank. I don't want to damage the crank unless I cut it and put an adapter on it.

 

[Certified Mike]

Heat it and see if you can go at what's sticking out at an angle. Def the least likely way to damage anything. The slot is,the next less likely, the ez out requires a VERY steady hand if a press isn't available. (they can be bought for less than the cost of a new crank in most cases)
Good luck!!!

 

[srusinek]

Ok. Thank you. It might be sometime until I work on the motor since my season is pretty much over. I know if I do upgrade that the Ofna .28 engine has a lot of power and I own one(Ofna DM 1 spec) and the HPI .28 is also on my short list. I don't want to put an lrp in this truck because it was a salvage build. I also feel that putting the 5.9 in there from my XL is an option and put the lrp in my XL. But doing this will probably grenade my diffs IMHO.

 

[Certified Mike]

I don't own a savage, nor do I know if during traxxas rebuilds, if they put a heavier diff in the 3.3 trucks. I don't have a solid answer for you there. I'm sure if you posted the question directly, a LOT of ppl will be able to help you as far as if the diffs will blow or what the best route for you to take is as far as a reasonable install for the truck. The reason I mentioned that you can buy a drill press cheap I'd that you will find once you have it, there will be a ton of uses for it and your confidence level will go way up once you see how steady and smoothly it will work for you. I have 2. Lol!

 

[olds97_lss]

Have you ever seen an ez out that is small enough to work with a 3mm screw? I've always just resorted to using a really thin dremel disk and cutting a slot. Considering the first 4-5 mm of your crank is usually for shims, you should be able to get away with cutting a slot in it that's a few mm deep.

How did you break the screw off? Over tighten or it just sheared off when you were trying to take it off? If it sheared off when you were trying to take it off, then it's pretty stuck and I'd apply heat after cutting it with a dremel to loosen up whatever is holding it before trying to back it out.

 

[Certified Mike]

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Kawasaki-S...IOBQll2IilvXCN8RkSXjM-qzXVgxcsvEvrRoCab3w_wcB
Thinking these would prob go down to 3mm. Again, I simply posted an example of what I was talking about.

 

[olds97_lss]

Huh. Guess when I looked, my searching skills were sub par, or I didn't do the math right. Looks like the 5/64 might be small enough. I've never used an extractor before. Would be a real bear to do without snapping a bit that small though. Especially without a drill press.

 

[Racer 1966]

5/64 is the drill size for the smallest extractor. The problem is getting the drill centered in the screw,you only have a .010" margin for error around the screw before you start getting into the actual thread. It wouldn't be easy even for me and I do that stuff for a living.

The big question is the one olds asked,how did you end up snapping it off?

 

[olds97_lss]

5/64 is the drill size for the smallest extractor. The problem is getting the drill centered in the screw,you only have a .010" margin for error around the screw before you start getting into the actual thread. It wouldn't be easy even for me and I do that stuff for a living.

The big question is the one olds asked,how did you end up snapping it off?

Yeah... I'd snap that bit off in the crank too. Like I did on my stupid alloy micro-t axle carriers. Snapped the bit in one, snapped the tap in the other. I need tools that weigh at least 1lb or I probably shouldn't use them.

 

[Certified Mike]

I have never used one that small. As I suggested prior, I would Def try the slotting first. I would imagine the ez out itself would be flimsy too, just know they are avail.

 

[srusinek]

Thanks for all the replies so far. I was trying the get the clutchbell on there and I was checking the play in it. After doing that a few times the screw head snapped off. I don't remember if it snapped while tightening or loosening. I'm going to try to heat it up to see how it goes and I'll try to notch it as well but I don't feel confident in trying to tap it.

 

[Certified Mike]

Hopefully it comes out EASY for you! Good luck!

 

[cbaker65]

Thanks for all the replies so far. I was trying the get the clutchbell on there and I was checking the play in it. After doing that a few times the screw head snapped off. I don't remember if it snapped while tightening or loosening. I'm going to try to heat it up to see how it goes and I'll try to notch it as well but I don't feel confident in trying to tap it.

By slotting ,you will slot a little bit on the tip of the crank ,but that wont effect it much ,as long as you
clean the burr off of it afterwards ,then heat an try small screw driver!...

 

[sv250]

You can always cut into the crank a bit. Just a mm or two all the way around. That will give you something to bite with vice grips or a vice. Then heat it and remove. You should still have enough threads for a screw and an of a shim kit comes with a part for counter sunk cranks in bells.

 

[Certified Mike]

As long as you don't go crazy, you should have plenty of thread let to work with if you need to cut into the crank a little.