Losi LST 2 help please

[Alexander_0_1]

Hmmm, I Like the welding idea! It would probably work to ark-out a 1/8 welding rod to the screw head, then all a guy would have to do is snip a piece of the welding rod off, and grip it in a vice-grip pliers, and remove the screw, and to limit heat travel I'd just use a damp cloth rag on the transmission side, if I could get a better look at what's under that...is it a skid plate/trans mount I'm looking at?

Is there any angle that you could take a pic to show me what those two middle screws are are screwed into? Just so I can get a better idea of what's going on.

I'd better pick up that microphone hamz doesn't like people bothering his sound equipment.

 

[Alexander_0_1]

Heat does not loosen metal by itself... Just a heads up. Also, if you are going to take that route... Be VERY careful that you're not hearing anything near plastics.

You want him to wear hearing protection? Well safety first I suppose.

@Chamaraw throw on some ear plugs, and your ear muffs to be safe!

I don't have it Sir yet another purchase then

If its what you got, then give it a shot, my silver solder came free with my soldering iron, but my 60/40 lead is just easier to work with.

 

[Greywolf74]

highjack threads much?

 

[Certified Mike]

Yes, terribly sorry... HEATING... Clearly a typo... As I saw your suggestion about making things bigger for man hands... I suffer the same. I do try but occasionally my typos get past me. I will do my very best to make sure something as clearly off the wall as hearing and heating never get past me again! Btw, you will do WAY more damage by trying to weld something that small than you would by simply cutting into the head of the screw. I am DYING to hear how this silver solder thing goes!

 

[Chamaraw]

Hi, so the dremel worked perfectly fine. Got all the stripped ones out except for one. You can see the above image there is one without a head I don't know how this happened but it looks like it stripped from top. I tried to use pliers to remove it doesn't seem to move at all. Here is a image of the situation.

And made it worse by putting a tool on top to wiggle it out, and guess whats on top the stripped out part of the tool and its not coming out too i guess after removal i might have to change the transmission case too.

 

[Certified Mike]

Glad to hear it went well! The process is simple but effective. As for the remaining screw... Is it possible to grab the screw from underneath with some vice-grips? If the piece it is stuck in is metal, heating it will help to remove it but you need to be sure you can get a good hold of it so when it's hot you can move it. If you do go with heat, I would remove the entire part from the chassis before heat is applied. Take care to heat evenly and gently. In other words... Dont use an acetelyn torch unless you know how to do it.

Another thought... If the threads aren't too messed up and you can get a couple of nuts to thread on there, you could try to sandwich the 2 nuts against one another and try to catch it that way... You could also thread a nut on there, then basically dent the threads so that when you back the nut to the dent, it will lock against it and you have essentially added a head to what is currently there. You'll have to dent it pretty good so that the bit doesn't simply spin off over the area you're hoping it will grab.
I would try these last 2 ways first as once you grab the threads with vice grips, you won't have much luck threading anything in there.
Again, good luck and let us know how it goes!!!

 

[Chamaraw]

Wow , fast responsive. Thanks again Mike, will do . Yes the process was unbelievably simple. Dremel is a really a neat little tool and the I am an expert of stripped screws now thanks to you. Will keep you posted.

 

[Certified Mike]

The more you use the dremel, the more you'll like it! It's GREAT for work like this. I use it for all sorts of stuff!!!

 

[Chamaraw]

I think I found the problem. Now

to look for this part. Seems only available in US

 

[sv250]

Thousands of those went in the trash due to the foc conversion

 

[Chamaraw]

Thanks, I might do that too. I don't really need a reverse

 

[Certified Mike]

To answer an earlier question, denatured alcohol is the go to for cleaning fuel, gummed up fuel etc... WD40 is good for protecting the metals and displacing moisture. They have a number of different products available, each with their own specific uses.
As for reassembling, I recommend using BLUE locktite on all metal to metal hardware. Do NOT use anything stronger or you will have a terrible fight in your hands and likely more stripped screws when you need to remove the hardware again. Be sure to use quality hardware and the CORRECT hardware. If there is a countersunk screw hole, use the appropriate countersunk type hardware to fit. This way, screws on the underside of the chassis don't have protruding head to hang up while driving as well as grinding off the slots or allen screw heads etc... It looks like there may have been a couple that were incorrect causing you some of these headaches.
This and be sure the tools your are using are high quality and in good shape. You save nothing with cheap tools! Again, good luck and keep us updated!

 

[Chamaraw]

Could you please guide me a good tool set. I am just using the Allen keys I got with the car. They are a bit rounded off too. I bought an Allen key set none of them fit the car.

To answer an earlier question, denatured alcohol is the go to for cleaning fuel, gummed up fuel etc... WD40 is good for protecting the metals and displacing moisture. They have a number of different products available, each with their own specific uses.
As for reassembling, I recommend using BLUE locktite on all metal to metal hardware. Do NOT use anything stronger or you will have a terrible fight in your hands and likely more stripped screws when you need to remove the hardware again. Be sure to use quality hardware and the CORRECT hardware. If there is a countersunk screw hole, use the appropriate countersunk type hardware to fit. This way, screws on the underside of the chassis don't have protruding head to hang up while driving as well as grinding off the slots or allen screw heads etc... It looks like there may have been a couple that were incorrect causing you some of these headaches.
This and be sure the tools your are using are high quality and in good shape. You save nothing with cheap tools! Again, good luck and keep us updated!

 

[Certified Mike]

I may be able to. Where are you from? When buying tools, youll want to be reasonably close to where you purchase in the event that one should fail and you need a replacement. (when I am working on something and a tool breaks, a lifetime warranty means little to me!)

 

[Chamaraw]

Thanks I am based in United Kingdom. London to be precise

I may be able to. Where are you from? When buying tools, youll want to be reasonably close to where you purchase in the event that one should fail and you need a replacement. (when I am working on something and a tool breaks, a lifetime warranty means little to me!)[/QUOT

I may be able to. Where are you from? When buying tools, youll want to be reasonably close to where you purchase in the event that one should fail and you need a replacement. (when I am working on something and a tool breaks, a lifetime warranty means little to me!)

Preferably from https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/

 

[Chamaraw]

Also the inside gear cover was broke. Is it OK to assemble spur gears without that and do a test run. As you know I can't wait until the covee gets delivered.

 

[Certified Mike]

I know it sux to have to wait but I prob would. The time and effort involved to disassemble, clean and relube everything, not to mention the possibility of damaging all the new/good gears kind of kills the desire to run without the cover.
As far as the tools go. I have not heard great things about the Hudy tools. Arrowmax seems to be the other big name on this site. I have no experience with them at all. Lodi and MIP both have good reviews. I have some older MIP tools that are still in good shape as well as Bondhaus (spelling?) that have served me well. Being a mechanic, I have both Blue Point and Snap On tools which serve me VERY well. They are expensive but well worth it IMO. I also use a Craftsman ignition wrench set for some very small and obscure sizes. These are old sets, before they sold out to Chinese manufactures and the quality went VERY far downhill!!! I don't know if any of this is available to you there but I recommend all with personal experience. Also, I have found that using actual brand name Dremel bits seem to last far longer than any of the other bit sets I have tried. Xcelite makes good precision cutters and pliers. Weller makes good soldering equipment. I have used their soldering stations with adjustable temperature (which is Def something I recommend) as well as their butane soldering iron. (The P2KC and the PSI100K have served me well over the years)
I haven't a clue as to what is avail in UK as I am in US. I hope this is helpful though.

 

[Chamaraw]

Thanks a lot Mike. I will take a look.

 

[Chamaraw]

I need some advice regarding LST2 , I have been offered another LST2 by a shop , doesn't have receiver or transmitter but the tranny works for £120=$170 . Is it really worth it? could i easily convert one to e-LST and keep one for nitro, I am also traveling to US for holidays in August. I can also save up and buy a new one what would you recommend for me? i like the idea of all terain. Thanks in advance

Thanks a lot Mike. I will take a look.

 

[Certified Mike]

What engine is in it? Be sure to check for good compression and for leaks. Does it come with any accessories? If so, what? Does the car have a servo? What kind and model? What is the over all condition? How do the bearings feel? Is the suspension and steering tight? I'm guessing you don't have the answers to these questions? Well, prob not ALL the answers anyways! Whenever buying used, be THOROUGH! Ask questions. How old is it? Was it races or just bashed, or both?( While I am against age discrimination of Any kind, I believe the age of the owner can sometimes tell about the kit as well. Usually... USUALLY younger owners are learning and can be harder on cars. Also, they don't typically have as much money to spend on their cars. This is something I learned about buying a used 1:1 car. I feel it transfers well to RC. IN GENERAL!!!) Any engine mods or repairs done? How does the air cleaner look? What fuel was used? 20%-30%? Check the condition of the shocks. Check to be sure the shafts aren't bent. Are they leaking? How does the shock oil look? Is it dirty? (good indication of poor maintenance) if you can check it, how does the line in the trans look? Are there leaks there? If there is a body, how does it look? Does it look like it spent a lot of time in its roof? Condition of shock towers for grinding. Also, the chassis itself... Is it bent? How does the underside look? Is it ground down badly?
What has been upgraded on it? What brand was used? RPM A-arms for example...
Wow! Lots of questions! These are things I would be concerned with as when they are all out together, it creates a tail of use, abuse, maintenance etc... I would ask away as well as any others you have or that the ppl here add on to... Or maybe even suggest against. Keep in mind, it's unlikely they have a long line of people trying to buy this. Nitro isn't the fastest seller in a lot of cases. I would take this info and compare it to other used similar kits that you find on line... Search them out tonight and think about the prices vs conditions. Keep in mind, you are either buying someone else's baby, or their nightmare!( Some of these things may not apply to this specific kit. I don't own one so there may not be 'trans fluid' for instance.)
Whatever you find, let us know and we will try to give best suggestions! Good luck!!!

Oh, as far as the other questions... I don't ever get into electric conversions but there are a few who have with great luck! If @olds97_lss Is around, he can tell you more about his adventures with a Jato...
As far as a different kit to check out, I really enjoy my Revo. Its a great kit with lots of parts availability. Its extremely versitile and is great for letting the kids bash with as its tough as nails! A monster 4x4 would be my next step unless you're really stuck on buggies. If you're on road a lot, a rally might be another option. I don't own one but have talked with a few owners who really like them! 4x4 has always been good to me... More expensive to own and maintain but they run everywhere!
If you're thinking about racing, that's a whole other story. Say so if you are and I will try to help you thru all that.