Losi LST 2 help please

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Mattgen166790

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Hello, recently my brother gave me his old Losi LST2 that headset in his garage for at least a few years he said it ran the last time he played with it and since having it I have gotten new gas new glow plugs new glow starter and nothing seems to work I have tried priming it only to have it very very slightly turnover when it finally did it seems to blow fuel from in between the heat sink and top of motor I pulled heat sink off looked everything appeared okay so I reinstalled it nothing seems to be working for me and it is a bad ass car any suggestions thanks a lot..
 
Hello, recently my brother gave me his old lst2 that headset in his garage for at least a few years he said it ran the last time he played with it and since having it I have gotten new gas new glow plugs new glow starter and nothing seems to work I have tried priming it only to have it very very slightly turnover when it finally did it seems to blow fuel from in between the heat sink and top of motor I pulled heatsink off looked everything appeared okay so I reinstalled it nothing seems to be working for me and it is a badass car any suggestions thanks a lot..

Have you taken the fuel tank off an cleaned it?
Also ,the air filter & the carb will need to be cleaned ,an perhaps a new glow-plug!
Make sure that the glow igniter is fully charged!..:cool:
 
Pull the heat sink off of the motor, and check to see if the metal gasket between the button, and the engine block is still in good condition, or if its there to begin with ( the button is the round aluminum bit sandwiched between the heat sink, and the engine block, its what your glow plug screws into). If it seems in good condition, you can put an extremely small, paper thin amount of high-temp RTV silicone on the metal gasket, reinstall, and tighten the heat sink, button, and engine block evenly.

Make sure your carful not to get any of the high-temp RTV silicone into the combustion chamber.

The metal gasket should have no scratches, folds, bends, or caked on dirt.
 
Have you taken the fuel tank off an cleaned it?
Also ,the air filter & the carb will need to be cleaned ,an perhaps a new glow-plug!
Make sure that the glow igniter is fully charged!..:cool:

Yes brand new glow plug, and brand new glow starter. I have seen where people use wd40 to clean fuel lines and tank, thoughts on this?
 
Go to you local hobby shop, you might be able to pick both of those up for less than $15.
 
Try putting a couple drops of fuel in the carb ,an manual open up the throttle when you try to
start it!!
Hello, recently my brother gave me his old lst2 that headset in his garage for at least a few years he said it ran the last time he played with it and since having it I have gotten new gas new glow plugs new glow starter and nothing seems to work I have tried priming it only to have it very very slightly turnover when it finally did it seems to blow fuel from in between the heat sink and top of motor I pulled heatsink off looked everything appeared okay so I reinstalled it nothing seems to be working for me and it is a badass car any suggestions thanks a lot..


My last car was a xtm xtermenator, it seemed to have alot more compression than this one does. It has the spin start which i use my drill on, but for a 427 big block motor it just doesn't seem to have the "pop" when turning on it. Suggestions on this also?
And if compression is bad could i just re sleeve it?
 
I'd advise giving it a complete stripdown and check over. :)
 
Thanks, Started off, I had bad luck with one of the nuts in the tranny and now it cannot be taken off, the screw head is gone:( . Any ideas how to get that removed ?
 
I thought I posted here about this. If you post a couple pics, we may be able to help you out with this. There are tricks that can work out but it's easiest to see what we're working with. :thumbs-up:
 
Thanks Mike, here you go. I am completely new to this and this put breaks on me.
IMG_20170615_231410.jpg
IMG_20170615_231354.jpg
IMG_20170615_231354.jpg
new to this and this has really put a break on me.
 
Ok... This is actually very good news! These should be relatively easy to remove. The first thing I would attempt would be to use a flat disc dremel bit (cutting wheel)

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dremel-E...75035&wl11=online&wl12=16504569&wl13=&veh=sem

Use this to put a slot on the head of the screw like this.

download (2).jpg


Make the cut deep enough so you can use a flat head (slotted) screw driver to remove the screw.
If there isn't enough space there to get a good cut without cutting up your chassis, use a drill bit that is the same size as the screw you are working on. In the picture above, you want to use a bit that is the same size as the portion of the screw that is threaded (the part that the nut twists on to). You may want to use smaller bits to start and work your way up to that size. (I recommend that. It lets you be much more accurate.)
Center the bit as best as you can in the very center of the head of the screw and drill down into it deep enough so that you have passed thru the head of the screw to the threaded portion. Continue to do this with slightly larger bits until you cut the head off of the screw. From there, it is possible the screw will simply slide out. If not, use vise grips or good pliers to unscrew the remainder from there.
I have attempted to be thorough with the explaination there. If it's not clear or if you have more questions, please ask BEFORE you start cutting! (Much easier to ask questions than to fix mistakes! ;))
Good luck and Def let us know how it goes!:thumbs-up:
 
Ok here's what you do, pack it up and send it to me, and then it's no longer your problem...and I get another RC, yay me!

Kidding, what you do is solder an Allen key into the hole of the screw, let the solder cool, then use the hot tip of the soldering iron to heat the area around the stripped screw (metal expands when heated), then try to unscrew it slowly/carefully. Don't cut, grind, or drill anything till you try this!

Silver solder is suppose to be harder to heat up, so I'd try that kind instead of 60/40 lead solder, or you could accidentally reheat the lead solder to the point that the Allen key will come loose, then you'll have to start the process over again.

This has worked for me in the past. Good luck.

Source a good set of hex drivers, and it should eliminate stripping out the hex screw for a good while, until the drivers start to wear down, my brand of hex driver is Lockeup-rc.


Microphone Drop!
 
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So I bought a dremel. I will update when it arrives. I am going to try Alexander approach. I already tried heating it up with solder iron. Nothing happened. I would not belive the lead would hold the Allen key down as this nut is crazy tight. But worth a shot before start cutting I guess
 
No sir, try the silver solder first! Lead solder might heat up while you are applying heat to the area around the screw.
 
I don't have it Sir :( yet another purchase then
 
Heat does not loosen metal by itself... Just a heads up. Also, if you are going to take that route... Be VERY careful that you're not hearing anything near plastics. You will melt the plastic before it gets hot enough to take solder. I have never tried using solder to remove a screw before... Only welding and that is a process for much larger projects. I will only further say that both of the methods I have listed are tried and true by me and others here as well. Whatever you do, obviously be careful that you're not causing damage to good parts. (as mentioned... Dont cut into the chassis by mistake etc...)
 
Thanks Mike, I can't thank you guys enough for the constant support. I will update as soon as I do these.
 
Good luck! Def keep us posted. Whatever help you need, there are clearly plenty of ppl here that are willing to help! The purchase of a dremel is something you will NOT regret! It is one of the best tools I have ever purchased/used for RC!!!
 
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