Car Starts, but doesn't move

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Yep! I will do that tomorrow! I have been busy today. I can't find the owners manual online anywhere and I can't seem to find it at my house so does anyone know how I can reset the carb needles to factory? Because I started it when I got the wheels spinning and the wheels just spin and I have tried turning down the idle needle. Thanks!
 
Does anyone know why the wheels spin when I start it though?
 
Does anyone know why the wheels spin when I start it though?

The clutch spring or bearings may need to be replaced ,if the spring is broke ,the clutch shoes will be
constantly engaged ,if the bearings are fried ,then the bell will be fused to the crankshaft of the engine
not allowing the free spin!

If you locked or altered that center diff. in any way ,it could damage other parts eventually ,they are suppose to
have give to absorb the torq. an jolts in rough terrain like jumps!
 
Does it sound like the rpms are high when it's idling? It sounds like maybe it's reving a bit high which is causing the clutch to engage before it's needed. This is kind of a tricky part to tuning because you are also breaking it in. That's going to have you setting the needles all over until the process is complete. Frankly, I am very surprised about your car not having a slipper clutch at all. It makes sense in that it's a small engine on a 1/16 scale kit so it's not working any components super hard. Still, for the adjustability that they provide as well as protection, I would add one if it were my kit.
Anyways, get your rpm down and see how that effects things.

Those are Def likely alternate things to look at. I would check the rpms first because it's an easy thing to adjust and doesn't cost a dime.
 
Yeah, the RPMs are high.. Which needle would you move to get that down?
 
Well, for starters, I would look at the idle set screw. I am going to suggest setting it slightly lower than I do with 1/10 scale because it is a small engine... It is just in the lower side of the range of 1/10 actually but set it at .8mm . Get it as close as you can to that and do not exceed 1mm gap. Use a feeler gauge, a paper clip, or if you can find one, an Allen wrench. After you set the gap, make sure the throttle servo and linkage are closing the carb back to the 'stop' (in other words, don't let the servo hold it open any higher than the gap you just set. See how that works... If not, I would go to the low speed needle
 
Well, for starters, I would look at the idle set screw. I am going to suggest setting it slightly lower than I do with 1/10 scale because it is a small engine... It is just in the lower side of the range of 1/10 actually but set it at .8mm . Get it as close as you can to that and do not exceed 1mm gap. Use a feeler gauge, a paper clip, or if you can find one, an Allen wrench. After you set the gap, make sure the throttle servo and linkage are closing the carb back to the 'stop' (in other words, don't let the servo hold it open any higher than the gap you just set. See how that works... If not, I would go to the low speed needle
Well I'm trying to do that, but that needle doesn't close it to 1mm so i'm centering the throttle servo and it doesn't stay at 1mm and then also my throttle servo gets stuck when trying to accelerate, but breaking works fine
 
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They still sell that buggy ,an all parts can be purchased!
 
I got my carb closed to 1mm with my servo horn off, so do i put it back on and just move the locks on the arm so that the carb is still closed when the horn is perpinduclar?
 
I got my carb closed to 1mm with my servo horn off, so do i put it back on and just move the locks on the arm so that the carb is still closed when the horn is perpinduclar?

If that is your engine at the top ,then that little black screw by the carb barrel is the idle screw ,
counter clockwise will close the barrel an idle the engine down!
 
If that is your engine at the top ,then that little black screw by the carb barrel is the idle screw ,
counter clockwise will close the barrel an idle the engine down!
I got that working and now I can't figure out this throttle servo. What holes is the arm supposed to go in? And idk if that's causing it but my throttle gets stuck and doesn't return.. Idk if you have to have the springs and locks a certain way or what
 
I got that working and now I can't figure out this throttle servo. What holes is the arm supposed to go in? And idk if that's causing it but my throttle gets stuck and doesn't return.. Idk if you have to have the springs and locks a certain way or what

The little springs on the linkage only help the brake & throttle have some give to them so it doesn't strain the servo ,
they have nothing to do with throttle return.
You can add a throttle return spring in which is always encouraged to everyone to do so!...:cool:
 
The little springs on the linkage only help the brake & throttle have some give to them so it doesn't strain the servo ,
they have nothing to do with throttle return.
You can add a throttle return spring in which is always encouraged to everyone to do so!...:cool:
So do you know why, when I press the throttle, the carb doesn't open all the way but mostly and then like after I press the throttle and let go, the servo horn jitters and doesn't go back?
 
So do you know why, when I press the throttle, the carb doesn't open all the way but mostly and then like after I press the throttle and let go, the servo horn jitters and doesn't go back?

Is the receiver batteries good an charged ,also what type of radio system is it?
 
I recommend a throttle,return spring of you don't have one... Def check the batteries... Put in brand new ones or better still, if you can find a battery pack that will fit the car, just get rid of the alkaline bats all together. They are a MAJOR source of radio faults and trouble.
 
I got everything going now, I started it and the wheels didn't spin right away so I took off the glow plug and revved it a bit and then i stopped and let it idle and then the wheels spun again. Which order should i mess with the needles
 
Before you mess with the needles, did the throttle servo/ linkage return all the way back to 'stop' ?
 
Was just gonna say that.. It goes back but the gap is still def bigger than what it was (around 1mm) It goes back but not to "stop"

and if i push the arm back so it is 1mm, then the throttle doesn't go forward, it's like it gets stuck on something
 
That's where you need to start looking then. You want the servo to stop at idle stop. Adjusting the needles without being at idle stop is going to have you chasing adjustments every time it stops in a slightly different position. Keeping the wheels from spinning at idle is Def important and is not something I chase out with high and low speed needle adjustment at least until my idle is straight
 
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