After 5 years on the shelf

[CrisisRC]

I recently found myself with extra time on my hands, and decided it was time to break out my RC10GT. It has been sitting in my basement closet for 5 or so years. I first got the truck about 9 years ago and I figured now i would have a better chance of getting it to run, and maintaining the vehicle now that I am a little more experienced and mature.

Anyway, I got it out, cleaned it up, got some new fuel, new glow plugs, the works. To my surprise it started up with very little effort. I have had many problems with it but it's mostly things i have been able to solve myself. recently I have been having some problems with it that I can't seem to diagnose on my own. Today I got it out of the garage and started it up. It took some work on the pull start but i finally got it started. I took it out for a few minutes around the driveway trying to warm up the engine before I began tuning it.

My problem started here, once the motor was warmed up, if i would get on the gas and rev it up, it would die as soon as the truck began to slow down. If I revved it up and let off the gas slowly it would idle like normal. One time when it died I noticed that the glow plug was loose. At first i thought i had found the problem, so i tightened down the glow plug and fired it up again.

*NOTE: When the truck would die, it would take about 5 minutes of pulling before it started up. when i first got it out of my garage it started up right away. and when it starts to die it bogs down like it is too rich/getting flooded.

I did mess with the low speed needle a bit, and i leaned it out some, and got some nice acceleration out of the truck, but it is still stalling if i rev it up and let off the gas.

Basically I am just wondering if maybe i have the idle set to low? or maybe I need to lean out the low speed some more?

Here's some pics of the truck, the engine is an OS max CV .12 and the truck is the RC10GT team kit for pull starts.

 

[MotoGod]

I'm going through the same thing with a T-Maxx that was put up for 18 months or so. My best guess is the carb is gummed up. Try pulling it off and pulling the needles out and cleaning it all really well. Then seal it back up and have a go at it.

I'm hoping to find time to clean my carb tonight...so I'll report back on whether it solves my problem or not.

 

[CrisisRC]

hmm

well nvm on the pics, can't seem to get em to show :whhooo:

 

[CrisisRC]

****update****

****UPDATE****

So the rain cleared up and the sun came out, which gave me some time to run a few more tests.

I let the engine cool down completely, started it up and ran the idle test, to see how it would stall/if it would stall. it did indeed stall, but it bogged down before it stalled. also while idling i can hear little fluctuations in the RPMs, is this normal?

While trying to start it i looked at my glow heater and realized that it was bent a little (the part that connects to the glow plug itself) I took the battery out and used a screwdriver to straighten it out. That seemed to help out with the starting troubles, but not by much.

I also primed the engine before I tried starting it by covering the exhaust port for a few pulls. It still wouldn't start, then it would spit a bit of fuel and kick over and start. This leads me to believe that it may be that the carbs are gummed up a bit.

Which all the problems I've been having with this car I am starting to realize that it may be the fuel I'm using, which is one you may be familiar with. I won't use any names but let's just say that it's blue.


Any suggestions are still welcome, I am stumped as to what to do next.

 

[surgemaster1970]

When you let something sit that long you must either douche it out good with some fogging oil to pre-oil it good before start-up.....The best method is to remove the engine ,disassemble it,clean it , reassemble it and re-install it with new fuellines/fuelfilter and the fueltank washed out.......Even the littlest of fuel left in the tank,lines or carb will gum things up.........I paid the price when I took my vintage T Maxx with Pro.15 engine out for a spin and gave the rod some severe slack and piston knock by the third tankful due to my laziness...But thats ok because I was looking for something to use the spare OS .18 engine I had laying around on .If my .15 is rebuildable theres a tutorial on how to turn the TRX Pro.15 into a Turbo engine with a dremel I wanted to try..so now I have a reason

 

[Old2.5]

I recently found myself with extra time on my hands, and decided it was time to break out my RC10GT. It has been sitting in my basement closet for 5 or so years. I first got the truck about 9 years ago and I figured now i would have a better chance of getting it to run, and maintaining the vehicle now that I am a little more experienced and mature.

Anyway, I got it out, cleaned it up, got some new fuel, new glow plugs, the works. To my surprise it started up with very little effort. I have had many problems with it but it's mostly things i have been able to solve myself. recently I have been having some problems with it that I can't seem to diagnose on my own. Today I got it out of the garage and started it up. It took some work on the pull start but i finally got it started. I took it out for a few minutes around the driveway trying to warm up the engine before I began tuning it.

My problem started here, once the motor was warmed up, if i would get on the gas and rev it up, it would die as soon as the truck began to slow down. If I revved it up and let off the gas slowly it would idle like normal. One time when it died I noticed that the glow plug was loose. At first i thought i had found the problem, so i tightened down the glow plug and fired it up again.

*NOTE: When the truck would die, it would take about 5 minutes of pulling before it started up. when i first got it out of my garage it started up right away. and when it starts to die it bogs down like it is too rich/getting flooded.

I did mess with the low speed needle a bit, and i leaned it out some, and got some nice acceleration out of the truck, but it is still stalling if i rev it up and let off the gas.

Basically I am just wondering if maybe i have the idle set to low? or maybe I need to lean out the low speed some more?

Here's some pics of the truck, the engine is an OS max CV .12 and the truck is the RC10GT team kit for pull starts.

most companies say to rebuild the motors after every 3 gallons of fuel so how old is the motor, i had the same problem with mine then the brass bushing in the rod went if the motor overheats to often it could cause that

 

[Jmacca]

I Have a RS4 18SS and it is suffering a similar problem

After about 2-3 months of not using it I finally decided to get my butt into gear and try it out, when I pulled it out of my cupboard I noticed that I had left about a quater of a tank of fuel in it (I dont know why), so I emptied the tank, put some fresh fuel in the tank and then started it up. It idles normally and acclerates well but when ever I move off the thottle it dies, I'm not sure what the problem is, anyone offer some help please?

thanks,
Jmacca

____ EDIT _____

I have fixed it! Just reset it back to factory and works great

 

[CrisisRC]

I found out why my truck is taking so damn long to start up. its not getting any fuel!! so here's a few things i noticed.

1. where the fuel line comes out of the tank and goes into the carb, theres the little nozzle off of the tank, there is some sealant around it, which has deteriorated. I'm not sure if this is the problem because the fuel is still flowing from the tank to the inlet on the carb. HOWEVER it stops there.

2. I noticed that there is an air bubble that stops in the fuel line before going into the carb.

so I'm thinking that most likely the carb is clogged the problem is i do not know how to disassemble the carbs.

HALP!


thanks

 

[epicdoom]

Is it a slide carb or rotory, the slide carb for that engine was a 10C and the rotory was a 10E. Determine what carb is on the engine then search OSengines.com for the exploded view of the carb that should help with dissasembly and reassembly. You will also want to count the number of turns on the needles for ref. just in case you can't find the factory settings.

If your still unsure about doing the job your local hobby shop should be able to help. I had an hpi NMT sitting now for 4 years, I just pulled it out It started up rite away I use ATF automatic transmission fluid instead of after run oil in all my engines. ATF is way better than after run oil for preserving the internals and bearings on these engines.

Doom