Revo 3.3 not starting

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ccater1026

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Hey guys I bought a revo 3.3 a few months ago. Out of the box it ran great. I was able to do the break in with little to no problems. Sometime after that though it quit running right then finally stopped starting all together. I've replaced the carb, glow plug filter, fuel and some more. I noticed that the carb was not pulling fuel from what looks like a tank pressure issue so I got a new tank to test the theory and now it still doesn't really want to start and now I notice that when I'm trying to start it I can see fuel coming up from the glow plug. Can anyone give me a suggestion on what to do next
 
Hey guys I bought a revo 3.3 a few months ago. Out of the box it ran great. I was able to do the break in with little to no problems. Sometime after that though it quit running right then finally stopped starting all together. I've replaced the carb, glow plug filter, fuel and some more. I noticed that the carb was not pulling fuel from what looks like a tank pressure issue so I got a new tank to test the theory and now it still doesn't really want to start and now I notice that when I'm trying to start it I can see fuel coming up from the glow plug. Can anyone give me a suggestion on what to do next
1st check tank lid gasket, common 1 reason, if the lid doesn’t shut and feel rubber resistance it’s leaking, replace gasket if tightening the gasket cover doesn’t work. Check lines /replace, check pinch bolts on carb and needle o rings. The 2 chrome pinch bolts are another problem area, strips out graphite housing. Seal bolts, hi speed housing and tighten it. Seal engine as well , back plate, and around bolt holes. Check the head bolts. Tighten if needed, seal pinch bolt on carb throat where u tighten carb in place. Attach new lines, new plug/gasket. It should be able to when blowing through the line that comes off tuned pipe feedback line and the fuel should blow right to carb. Another way to easily prime ez start traxxas is cover stinger hole on pipe to prime while spinning the engine with the ez wand or using pull or whatever start u have. Good luck
1st check tank lid gasket, common 1 reason, if the lid doesn’t shut and feel rubber resistance it’s leaking, replace gasket if tightening the gasket cover doesn’t work. Check lines /replace, check pinch bolts on carb and needle o rings. The 2 chrome pinch bolts are another problem area, strips out graphite housing. Seal bolts, hi speed housing and tighten it. Seal engine as well , back plate, and around bolt holes. Check the head bolts. Tighten if needed, seal pinch bolt on carb throat where u tighten carb in place. Attach new lines, new plug/gasket. It should be able to when blowing through the line that comes off tuned pipe feedback line and the fuel should blow right to carb. Another way to easily prime ez start traxxas is cover stinger hole on pipe to prime while spinning the engine with the ez wand or using pull or whatever start u have. Good luck
Also invest in a decent 20-30$ glo igniter, lose the blue wire for ez start or whatever, glo igniters r 100x’s more likely to fire, get hotter and keep it running in worst conditions . Trust me it’s a good buy. U always have the wire for backup but compare the 2, also it requires the battery of the wand to be 100% efficient n working right n most nimh just don’t do that. Except for the 1st pack or 5 haha….this will make the starting process so much easier, u use pull or ez start? Took me 11 years but about 8-9 years ago I ditched everything ez start and not pull/spin or roto start bc there is so much drag constantly on the one way bearing translating directly to crankshaft bc that entire assembly inside the ez start onboard is spinning entire time engine runs…the power difference alone minus the hassle of it, was enough to make me switch over .life is a lot easier now for me no batteries, wands, guns whatever to carry only a igniter and warm engine and good tune..also most important thing n I might get smoke for saying this, traxxas top fuel is safe for everything but a running 2 stroke engine . I’ll repeat if necessary. Use VP racing, traxxas knowingly increased their oil content intentionally to make the 3.3 “rod splitter” what it is today which is $$$ in their pocket. Pay em once and switch to vp or anything not traxxas and that alone might solve ur problem and eliminate that rod that was going to grenade internally
 
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