This is why you don't buy Traxxas...

[Doom!]

Price is what has kept me from buying a 1/10 scale crawler from Axial or Traxxas. One of these days maybe. My Element crawlers are just as capable if not more, at $100.00 less.

 

[Bogda89]

I have probably over 40 Traxxas cars but I only bought 2 brand new, my first rc ever, stampede and drag slash when they were on sale.

There is a lot of them on used market and parts are mostly available for all models.

Today I bought a sickening vintage nitro 4tec in good working condition for 70$

 

[Slick2500]

The Widemaxx and Vorteks are both decent kits from what I have seen. RCDriver on Youtube did one of the first teviews on the Vorteks, and bashed it pretty hard.

For connrctors I only use XT60 on my 2s stuff and EC5 on everything else. I do have Deans on a few kits but will eventually phase those out because I simply cannot stand unplugging them. They have no good way to grip them.

Nothing against RC Driver but what he does is not reviews they are first impressions, you cannot review a car after only driving it 2 times.

 

[WickedFog]

Nothing against RC Driver but what he does is not reviews they are first impressions, you cannot review a car after only driving it 2 times.

All I was saying was it survived all the abuse he was giving it.

 

[Slick2500]

All I was saying was it survived all the abuse he was giving it.

So does every car he shows on his channel. He makes great content but taking his videos of the durability of a car is not the best idea. Look at the Traxxas Sledge as example he didn't show any of the inherent issues others had with it like the motor mount moving or the chassis bending. Or the Kraton 8s he is literally the only Youtuber that didn't bend his chassis or at least he never showed it or mentioned it.

 

[WickedFog]

So does every car he shows on his channel. He makes great content but taking his videos of the durability of a car is not the best idea. Look at the Traxxas Sledge as example he didn't show any of the inherent issues others had with it like the motor mount moving or the chassis bending. Or the Kraton 8s he is literally the only Youtuber that didn't bend his chassis or at least he never showed it or mentioned it.

Ok, I'll quit watching him.

 

[Bogda89]

Problem with YouTubers is that not too many are objective and always give positive reviews. Only 2 guys give relatively objective reviews in my opinion, razor rc and ausiercplayground. Best reviews were from jang urc but unfortunately he stopped making content long time ago. Talbot is semi objective but not completely

 

[WickedFog]

All I was saying, from what I saw in the video, disregarding his opinion, comments, or whatever, is the truck looked pretty good. Based on my experience with our Granite, the Vorteks looks to be a better choice. Our Granite is a problem child.

 

[hogue132]

I present exhibit B.

i just got a traxxas i can get it to start but the idle is so high it runs for about 7 secounds then trans try to engage and dies any ideas please and thanks

 

[Bogda89]

i just got a traxxas i can get it to start but the idle is so high it runs for about 7 secounds then trans try to engage and dies any ideas please and thanks

It's either too lean or too big idle gap

 

[Slick2500]

Ok, I'll quit watching him.

Where did I say quit watching him? I just said don't base your buying decisions on his "reviews". He is a paid promoter but still makes good videos to watch.

All I was saying, from what I saw in the video, disregarding his opinion, comments, or whatever, is the truck looked pretty good. Based on my experience with our Granite, the Vorteks looks to be a better choice. Our Granite is a problem child.

The Vorteks is the same car with shorter shocks, shorter shock towers, different body and tires. So unless your problems were with were those items the Vorteks will have the same issues as the Granite.

 

[WickedFog]

Where did I say quit watching him? I just said don't base your buying decisions on his "reviews". He is a paid promoter but still makes good videos to watch.

The Vorteks is the same car with shorter shocks, shorter shock towers, different body and tires. So unless your problems were with were those items the Vorteks will have the same issues as the Granite.

Ours throws rear driveshafts apart like they are made of clay. I've tried adjusting the slipper, but it has to do with bumping the rear wheels, like in a cartwheel, or any kind of twitch side to side while driving just throws them apart. We have only driven it 5 or 6 times, and it has yet to make it through a full pack with all 4 driveshafts intact.

 

[Slick2500]

Ours throws rear driveshafts apart like they are made of clay. I've tried adjusting the slipper, but it has to do with bumping the rear wheels, like in a cartwheel, or any kind of twitch side to side while driving just throws them apart. We have only driven it 5 or 6 times, and it has yet to make it through a full pack with all 4 driveshafts intact.

In my opinion the Arrma 3s line is complete crap, they need to toss it out and start over. Too many inherent flaws that can only be fixed with band-aid fixes.

The only thing that I can think of that would help your problem is to switch to the composite cvds ARRMA AR310870 CVD Slider Set (1 Pair): ARAC3974, Black https://a.co/d/etV3HmM

 

[burky]

Problem with YouTubers is that not too many are objective and always give positive reviews. Only 2 guys give relatively objective reviews in my opinion, razor rc and ausiercplayground. Best reviews were from jang urc but unfortunately he stopped making content long time ago. Talbot is semi objective but not completely

I agree, of all the videos I have watched Razor RC is by far the least biased reviewer out there.

 

[Jamr]

Sorry as I did not read all 11 pages and I apologize if this was covered here but I just wanted to mention this.
Should there be another class of cars called professional where people jump them and crash them almost intentionally just for the clicks?
Just for an example, If you are buying a hobby grade car and jumping it 30 feet into the air or speed running it at 150MPH and crashing it and burning it for the Youtube clicks, shouldn't you be using a professional grade car? Should hobby grade be confused with professional grade?
I have not seen a professional grade basher yet but if you are buying a hobby grade car and doing crazy professional stunts with it, shouldn't you upgrade it to professional grade instead of bashing it as being hobby grade?
I totally recant this statement if the OP was just toodling around and things broke, but if you are trying to make your car fly, then get an airplane or upgrade your car to land without braking.
Sorry if I am way off here but I would not buy a toy grade car and expect it to bash along side my X-Maxx.
Just my 2cents.

 

[bill_delong]

Normally we refer to professional grade as "Race Grade" where most brands of "Race Grade" cars already include upgrades in a kit. Most brands of RTR's take short cuts to reduce costs by "downgrading" the RTR with cheap plastic parts that break easily, but sell tons of Aluminum and Carbon upgrades that if you were to deck out the car with those upgrades it would cost more than a Race Grade kit!

I believe the OP ran his RTR at a 1/10 track which I feel is a reasonable amount of stress for a RTR, certainly far less abusive than a skate park where most bashers take extreme jumps on unforgiving concrete without proper landing ramps

 

[Jamr]

Normally we refer to professional grade as "Race Grade" where most brands of "Race Grade" cars already include upgrades in a kit. Most brands of RTR's take short cuts to reduce costs by "downgrading" the RTR with cheap plastic parts that break easily, but sell tons of Aluminum and Carbon upgrades that if you were to deck out the car with those upgrades it would cost more than a Race Grade kit!

I believe the OP ran his RTR at a 1/10 track which I feel is a reasonable amount of stress for a RTR, certainly far less abusive than a skate park where most bashers take extreme jumps on unforgiving concrete without proper landing ramps

I do agree and I guess I just expect some things to break if I use them especially if I abuse them.
I do not buy upgrades from the manufacture as they are too expensive and it just tells the manufacture "it is OK to make an inferior product, I will just buy the upgrade later.

 

[bill_delong]

I do not buy upgrades from the manufacture as they are too expensive and it just tells the manufacture "it is OK to make an inferior product, I will just buy the upgrade later.

Well, Traxxas has already shot themselves in the foot as they have been shutting down the aftermarket brands who have helped them become who they are today, shrug:
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=936947634422415&set=a.516042276512955

 

[Slick2500]

FWIW I have owned my Traxxas Rustler VXL for over a year now and in that time I have, bent the rear bumper screws a few times, broken one steering bell crank, one rear shock tower, three rear spoilers, one body and two rear camber links all while running 3s on an Arrma BLX100 combo with 25/83 gearing and Duratrax Lockup 2.8 MT tires. If you drive anything wrong enough it will break.

 

[DavidB1126]

If you drive anything wrong enough it will break.

With mine, well not really, my rusty is more durable than my slash. With my slash, it breaks like legos dropping on the floor.