Tuning help/ problem

[Kurtis916]

Hey i have the new t-maxx 3.3 i bought like 2 weeks ago. i broke it in using the instructions in the video and have put over a half a gallon of fuel thru it and it seems like my engine is still either not broken in fully or not tuned right. I've been running it every day as much as i can to see if it will improve if its not broken in fully and nothing is changing. i took it to the hobby store to have it tuned and he barely did anything, didnt even do any passes and fixed my low speed i think and didnt really do anything to my high speed. he just lifted it up and ran it in the air for 10 secs or so and said it was good. i think he half assed it. I've been trying to tune it myself and i can't get it to wheelie at all. it just bogs every time i wide open throttle. i know that means its too lean but when i adjust it to richen it, it gets soooo sluggish i know theres no way it will wheelie. and still may bog a bit. anyone that has experience with tuning or special experience with a t-maxx 3.3 on what i have to fix this to get better performance and to make it wheelie let me know what i can do. I've been watching youtube vids of t-maxxes and they wheelie with ease. I'm getting really frusturated. please help

 

[gnarkill]

it just bogs every time i wide open throttle. i know that means its too lean but when i adjust it to richen it, it gets soooo sluggish i know theres no way it will wheelie.

It might not be too lean, It can also be too fat. Just check by how much smoke is coming out of your exhaust stinger.

If you are confident that it is fully broken in, put it back at factory setting, then start from there. tune in 1/8 turn increments on the high side needle until you notice a loss in power, then back it out 1/8 of a turn so you are at the best running potential with an untuned low side needle. Then go ahead and do the same to the low side needle in 1/16 turn increments. It probably needs 1/8 to 3/16 of a turn.

However, I would put another 1/4 gallon through it before you start leaning for max performance.

 

[Kurtis916]

It might not be too lean, It can also be too fat. Just check by how much smoke is coming out of your exhaust stinger.

If you are confident that it is fully broken in, put it back at factory setting, then start from there. tune in 1/8 turn increments on the high side needle until you notice a loss in power, then back it out 1/8 of a turn so you are at the best running potential with an untuned low side needle. Then go ahead and do the same to the low side needle in 1/16 turn increments. It probably needs 1/8 to 3/16 of a turn.

However, I would put another 1/4 gallon through it before you start leaning for max performance.

yeah A LOT of smoke comes out. but it still bogs (the yip yip yip sound) it can do that by being to fat? I'm just afraid to mess with the low needle cause its soo hard to get it where it doesn't idle high and if its not right it sounds weird. i just dont get why it wont wheelie. i saw youtube vids of people just tuning there t-maxx 3.3 with crappy settings and it still wheelies. even when theres bogs a bit. is it recommended to get a heat gun or whatever? whats a cheap device to see the temp. also, i think I've gone back to factory hsn settings and it still bogs on that. and i thought that was supposed to be rich. i also saw some vids of people who just finished breaking in there t-maxx and it does wheelies. its not that i just want to do wheelies n stuff. i want to know I'm getting the performance everyone else is getting.

 

[2revo1maxx]

You should clean out your fuel tank, line and carb. Maxx doesn't come with a fuel filter, I would highly suggest one. Also make sure your tank is screwed down (careful they will strip) because that will make your fuel foam up. A new plug and factory settings should work. The "yip yip" is always a lean condition of some sort. If it's cold out make sure you richen the hsn as much as 1 full turn (30 degrees outside).

Don't forget most people on you tube have the short chassis maxx. You probably have the extended version, right? A little harder to wheelie but should still do it no prob.

 

[Kurtis916]

You should clean out your fuel tank, line and carb. Maxx doesn't come with a fuel filter, I would highly suggest one. Also make sure your tank is screwed down (careful they will strip) because that will make your fuel foam up. A new plug and factory settings should work. The "yip yip" is always a lean condition of some sort. If it's cold out make sure you richen the hsn as much as 1 full turn (30 degrees outside).

Don't forget most people on you tube have the short chassis maxx. You probably have the extended version, right? A little harder to wheelie but should still do it no prob.

if i set the hsn back to factory settings and it still does the "yip yip" what do i do. i thought that was supposed to be rich? and yes i have the extended ver (the newest ver. of the t-maxx)

 

[Metalhead Matt]

What's the temps doin'? If you richen the heck out of it with no noticeable changes, chances are you have an air leak.

 

[Kurtis916]

What's the temps doin'? If you richen the heck out of it with no noticeable changes, chances are you have an air leak.

i just bought a temp gun and it got to 350 before it died... it keeps going over 300 when I'm trying to tune it. it also idles weird and I'm trying to fix that, but it keeps overheating. i keep richening it, it doesn't yip yip anymore and its about 5 turns out from closed on the hsn and is still overheating. is this an air leak? and if so how do i fix it

 

[Metalhead Matt]

350!!! It's most likely damaged. Don't start it again! Do a search on hear on how to seal your engine and get to it. Start at factory settings. Make sure you don't have a leaky tank lid or fuel lines while your at it. Never should get above 280. Make sure your lsn isn't closed.

 

[Kurtis916]

350!!! It's most likely damaged. Don't start it again! Do a search on hear on how to seal your engine and get to it. Start at factory settings. Make sure you don't have a leaky tank lid or fuel lines while your at it. Never should get above 280. Make sure your lsn isn't closed.

is the engine ruined now?

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Does it have compression? If it does, seal it and it will run ok. Throw a new glow plug in it before you start it again, too.

 

[Kurtis916]

Does it have compression? If it does, seal it and it will run ok. Throw a new glow plug in it before you start it again, too.

maybe i have too hot of a glow plug in there or something? i just put a new one in there i bought from a hobby store before i ran it. idk if it was over heating before that since i literally just got the temp gun 1 hour ago

 

[Metalhead Matt]

A glow plug wouldn't be the cause of that. It's suckin' A LOT of air. Do the search for air leaks and if you still have questions, I'll walk ya through it. Check for loose head bolts before you tear it a part. Sealing an engine is a breeze. Most guys do it to brand new engines before they even break them in. Not so much rtr's, but they still can develop a leak. Make sure your header is tight and the gasket is good, too.

 

[Kurtis916]

A glow plug wouldn't be the cause of that. It's suckin' A LOT of air. Do the search for air leaks and if you still have questions, I'll walk ya through it. Check for loose head bolts before you tear it a part. Sealing an engine is a breeze. Most guys do it to brand new engines before they even break them in. Not so much rtr's, but they still can develop a leak. Make sure your header is tight and the gasket is good, too.

alright I'm goin to sheldons hobbies to get some engine sealent. anything else i need to do this job? and it is a rtr so you think it is a air leak?

 

[Metalhead Matt]

The only reason an engine would get so hot is an air leak or a very lean condition. An air leak causes a very lean condition. For the back plate, carb and header, use sensor safe, copper high temp rtv. Use a tooth pick to "stand it up", using a dabbing motion, around all the seals. Let it dry over night before trying to start the engine. Make sure to use lock tite on all metal to metal screws, including the engine mount bolts, header bolts, ect...

 

[2revo1maxx]

Yeah, 350? WOW, you're lucky the crank pin isn't broke, holy crap.

 

[Kurtis916]

i just went outside with it and played around with tuning stuff, trying to get it to idle right it is making a gurgling noise and kinda creeping forward slowly how do i fix that? i tried to make it really rich its like 5 and a half turns from closed and the higest temp i saw was 280. should i make it richer still to reduce the temp? i know its not too lean though cause tons of smoke comes out. idk what the problem is. i really dont want to go to the hobby store again and pay 45$ an hour to have them see whats wrong with it

 

[Metalhead Matt]

I told you what to do. Did you even check the things I mentioned? Seal it or ruin it; it's your rig.

 

[Kurtis916]

I told you what to do. Did you even check the things I mentioned? Seal it or ruin it; it's your rig.

well i recently replaced my carb cause it cracked and i rebuilt a new one. i may not have pushed the carb into the engine enough to have the o ring seal tight enough. could that be the problem?

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Yes. It probably is. copper, high temp, sensor safe rtv on the oring. Light coat. Press it in firmly and tighten the bolt while your holding it. Let it dry for a couple of hours and try it.