This TEKNO ET410.2 kit has been an exercise in frustration and anger management.

[hood52]

Wait till I talk you into getting a ebuggy, 8th scale turnbuckles are twice the fun to assemble

 

[BarnFabRC]

Wait till I talk you into getting a ebuggy, 8th scale turnbuckles are twice the fun to assemble

If I go 1/8 it’s gonna be a Myako. Just because. I learned so much from that dude. I feel like I owe him a few bucks I also bet his turnbuckles are marked correctly….

 

[J’sCrawler]

If I go 1/8 it’s gonna be a Myako. Just because. I learned so much from that dude. I feel like I owe him a few bucks I also bet his turnbuckles are marked correctly….

That mayako stuff looks top notch! I’m waiting for a truggy though…..

 

[gragner66]

Your lucky. I built my Tekno before they ever even made RC kits. The were just a 3rd party hop up parts company. I had to completely tear down a 1/8 HotBodies Ve8 then start over with this chassis. Not sure about today but back then they were great parts. Had mine since 2011 and not a problem with it. I did go with Lunsford Ti turnbuckles. I can’t remember if they offered them back then

 

[BarnFabRC]

Well it’s starting to look like something. The Ti turnbuckles came in yesterday’s mail and I got a few hours today after work to do some tinkering. It’s coming together pretty quickly now. I quit when I got to building shocks. That usually requires a different set of tools and a clear bench. (I really should get in the habit of knocking them out before anything else) I just placed some of the electrics to see how they’ll all fit. That Castle ESC is pretty big compared to a hobbywing. Maybe later this season I’ll make the switch. I sorta have an idea to build an SC6.4 for carpet next winter. Maybe the Castle can go in that. Too soon to say. Hoping to get a good session in on Sunday while I have the F1 season opener on! Spring is almost here!!!

 

[9x19]

Lookin' good.

 

[Doom!]

Progress!

 

[BarnFabRC]

Has anyone who’s running one of these switched to the 48p spur from the EB410.2? This came with a 32p and I’m just not sure I’m a fan plus I already have a pretty solid assortment of 48p pinions.

 

[9x19]

I run 32P or Module 1 gears in all of my 4x4s.

The 48P is fine for the 2wd, but I want the extra strength in my hard-use trucks.

 

[Ramp addict]

Did you get it together?

I just got done ordering what I need to build my Tekno ET/EB/SCT/MT 48/410 2.0. Yep, that's four manuals for one truck.

 

[RustyUs]

Hmm never had troubles with the turnbuckles on my teknos……one end is a left handed thread right?
Like stated above just take your time, they make quality kits. It could easily be the funnest car you have once you drive it. I don’t have one but I want one!

You are absolutely correct. The most fun to drive 1/10 scale RC platform ever! The ET410 was so much fun, I had to get a second one. Don't pay attention to me though. Everybody's tastes are different. The ET410.2 is next up on the list to build after current build is out of the way.

 

[RustyUs]

Just to be clear, every Tekno manual that mentions anything about the turnbuckle threads... one end has normal threads, and the other has reverse threads is all they state. The marking is just put on there to keep orientation the same throughout the platform, and does not mark left handed threads. As far as I know, they've been doing/having their links made like this since day one.

I've mentioned it multiple times over the years, probably since the ET410 came out, that I must be the only Tekno user to do my turnbuckles opposite from everyone else (SCT410SL pic below)...

And I got a response back...

 

[Lumikko]

Team Associated manuals advise to put the notch (LH thread) toward the left side of the car. It makes sense to me; bike pedals also have a CCW thread for the left crank.

 

[BarnFabRC]

Just to be clear, every Tekno manual that mentions anything about the turnbuckle threads... one end has normal threads, and the other has reverse threads is all they state. The marking is just put on there to keep orientation the same throughout the platform, and does not mark left handed threads. As far as I know, they've been doing/having their links made like this since day one.

I've mentioned it multiple times over the years, probably since the ET410 came out, that I must be the only Tekno user to do my turnbuckles opposite from everyone else (SCT410SL pic below)...
View attachment 183452
And I got a response back...
View attachment 183453

I get what you’re saying, but what bothers me is the marking they put is opposite the universal standard that’s been in place for 100 years. It’s such a little detail but to me it’s a pretty big thing. It says to me that the company has some work to do to really be top tier.

I’ve got the kit pretty much done I just need to mount and solder the electrics, paint the body etc. it looks great now that it’s complete

The two biggest things that are detractors are the turnbuckle thing and for almost $100 more than my B74.1 kit there’s almost zero carbon parts. Plastic towers? What kind of Traxxas stuff is that? For the money that kit should have come with at least carbon towers and top plates. Honorable mention the plastic center diff mount.

Things I do like are how the A B C & D blocks mount to the diff housings. Seems like it will be much easier to make anti-squat changes than how Associated does it. And I really like the center brace that helps protect the center drive shaft.

It does feel solid now that it’s all together and once I get to put a few packs through it & get it dialed in I imagine it’s going to drive well.

There’s probably going to be some carbon towers before the season is over and replace all the steel shim washers throughout it with nice aluminum spacers. Like a proper race car

I really dig the class and there’s not a lot of options for a mini truggy out there so I guess it is what it is…

Team Associated manuals advise to put the notch (LH thread) toward the left side of the car. It makes sense to me; bike pedals also have a CCW thread for the left crank.

Right. Which is exactly what I was trying to do but the notch is indicating the right hand threads not the left hand threads like every other turnbuckle ever made for RC or anything else.

Gues I should add a pic too of the current progress…

 

[J’sCrawler]

I get what you’re saying, but what bothers me is the marking they put is opposite the universal standard that’s been in place for 100 years. It’s such a little detail but to me it’s a pretty big thing. It says to me that the company has some work to do to really be top tier.

I’ve got the kit pretty much done I just need to mount and solder the electrics, paint the body etc. it looks great now that it’s complete

The two biggest things that are detractors are the turnbuckle thing and for almost $100 more than my B74.1 kit there’s almost zero carbon parts. Plastic towers? What kind of Traxxas stuff is that? For the money that kit should have come with at least carbon towers and top plates. Honorable mention the plastic center diff mount.

Things I do like are how the A B C & D blocks mount to the diff housings. Seems like it will be much easier to make anti-squat changes than how Associated does it. And I really like the center brace that helps protect the center drive shaft.

It does feel solid now that it’s all together and once I get to put a few packs through it & get it dialed in I imagine it’s going to drive well.

There’s probably going to be some carbon towers before the season is over and replace all the steel shim washers throughout it with nice aluminum spacers. Like a proper race car

I really dig the class and there’s not a lot of options for a mini truggy out there so I guess it is what it is…


Right. Which is exactly what I was trying to do but the notch is indicating the right hand threads not the left hand threads like every other turnbuckle ever made for RC or anything else.

Gues I should add a pic too of the current progress…View attachment 183494

That looks nice, I need one

 

[BarnFabRC]

Well it’s done! Turned out pretty good. Not my finest wiring job but it’ll do for now. There’s not a lot of space to work with for the electrics. Once carpet season wraps up I may swap the Hobbywing from the T6.4 into this and vice-versa. The Castle is just too big. I had to mount it on its side and get rid of the fan to make everything fit. There’s a lot more room in the T6.4. I’d like to relocate the transponder too.

I gave it my typical green/purple flip flop paint job it turned out ok. I rushed it as usual and had some black backer bleed through in spots.

The wing is actually for a Schumacher from Aerox Performance RC. I like the sharp lines and it’s the best fake carbon print I’ve ever seen.

I’ve got a pretty good fleet going. I need an E-buggy and a B7 to round it all out

I’m anxiously awaiting opening day at Pit Stop! It’s gonna be a good summer! The posted on FB the other day that they’re in the process of doing a new layout looks like ALL NEW he had it more or less graded flat. Can’t wait to see what he comes up with.

Might get back into it later and work on the setup and alignment. Throw it on the scales too. I’m interested to see how it compares to the AE cars weight wise and how nose heavy it is with the internal layout being so forward biased.

 

[DavidB1126]

Do they race those at the factory? Maybe put the t6.4 carpet wheels/tires on the tekno and let it rip!

 

[BarnFabRC]

Do they race those at the factory? Maybe put the t6.4 carpet wheels/tires on the tekno and let it rip!

They have a class for them but I’ve never seen one there. Actually my last race there for the season is this coming Saturday. I’m probably only gonna bring the wheeler. Last points race and that’s the class I’m doing best in. Just want to focus.

 

[gragner66]

Unique shaped body. I like it

 

[BarnFabRC]

Unique shaped body. I like it

Yea it’s certainly unique. First time I saw one at the track I knew I’d end up with one eventually. It’s like a frenchie or something.