sc10 questions

[ibmenace]

was wondering has anyone switched out the sc10 tranny for the rc10 stealth tranny? it sounds like something cool to do because they were bullet proof but not really sure it is worth it. the factory does a good job after you shim it. so i was interested to hear the gains or differences.

and also what is the opinion, brushless or factory. i have a factory rtr and a kit with novak scensored 13.5 brushless system with t4 rear shocks, green springs in the rear and gold up front and 30 degree castor blocks. and for some reason my rtr is set up so much better for me to run consistantly and i even like the rtr more when running 2s 25c lipo. so what i am saying is i hardy even run this brushless sc10 as opposed to my rtr. anyone else??

 

[chuck3]

its kind of a preference when it comes to BL or BR setups. if your racing and your consistant with the brushed then stay with it. but if you can get a feel for your brushless you might be surprised at what you can do. as for shock setups. change things around. if you like your RTR springs, try them in the kit and see if they work as well for you there. just tinker with the BL untill you get it running consistant

 

[ibmenace]

true true, i think my biggest problems are my heavy throttle finger lol! and i will be changing the 30 degree caster blocks out. and back to 25 degree. and good call on the spring switch up. to each his own as they say

 

[ibmenace]

ok on the t4/b44 or stealth tranny. i found info and pics of someone else that has done this transplant with no gains or difference. and actually went back to the sc10 tranny after all that. but for endurance and longevity the ball diff is the way to go.

 

[chuck3]

is that novak system tuneable? if you can tune it like the mamba or sidewinder, you can offset your heavy throttle finger. that will let you hae that BL speed and power, but no spinouts.

 

[ibmenace]

yes it is fully tunable but have not got to deep into it yet but will have to hear real son as i am about to order a hand full of lipos and will not be running the nimh packs anymore. night and day difference there bud. but the system is set close to the lower end of power and i run the slipper pretty loose. any looser and i will drop lose position quicker than i already do lol! but i will be neck deep in some tuning and changing in the next few weeks with lipo,brushless and i have to order the goosebump tires and maybe some rims if i find them cheap enough. my goal on the rims is to find a tasteful set that nobody has thought to run yet. and if anybody on here has a combo deal maybe, let me know huh!

 

[jonpfive]

28/78 on a 13.5 I run blue springs in front with 42.5 trinity oil and black springs in back with 37.5 trinity oil. Front preload is just enough to take up the slack on the spring, rear pre load is almost all the way down to the end of the threads (took all the shocks/turnbuckles off my T4) to get the rear axles just above level. With the battery all the way back the truck tucks neatly into corners and transfers weight very well under acceleration. Moving it forward makes the truck too tail happy to race. I also use JConcepts Goose Bumps. The track we race on is clay, I havent used it too much on the outdoor dirt track.

 

[ShredSled]

Interesting points of view on the RTR stocker versus the modded out kit.

Taking all this into consideration as I play with my set-up along the road to modding it out.
I'm currently having so much fun with it on our local tracks that I almost no longer feel much need to mod things too far beyond just making it a bit stronger and smoother...
We'll see.



So, I gotta ask, did you ever try your RTR susp/chassis settings on your brushless Kit just to see if it worked in that case as well for your preferences? Or are you still just enjoying the RTR better than your modded Kit?