Savage FLM and IRC build

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Very nice! I am saving my FLM Savage build for the HPI gas conversion, hopefully soon to be released!
 
heres how i did it. (sorry for blurry pics, camera puked out and had to use ipod)

i cut a stock 2011 engine mount to fit in the area behind motor, and attached a brace and drilled out 2 holes to fot big screws. then i took a black tmaxx rx box and cut exess between screw tabs and bottom(cut flush) then i screwed the base to the plate, installed my switch and Rx and screwed the box to base. drilled to holes in the box to zippy-tie battery to top
i been eyeing an orange aluminum rx box for revo, but no clear answers yet on the dimensions

my problem is that there is enough room between motor and plate for a pullstart, just not a losi pull/spin start, or just a losi pullstart (its too thick)

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That's a good idea I'll look into that , you din't have any heat problems being by the header

---------- Post added at 6:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:37 PM ----------

Very nice! I am saving my FLM Savage build for the HPI gas conversion, hopefully soon to be released!

I hear that I'll be picking one or two up as well but gona wait onto I see some vid on the tube first:D
 
Thinking of trying this turnigy nano-tech for my RX pack in hope's to power my savox SC-1256TG , SC-1257TG a little better , would like to know if the 6.6v hurt my 6v servo's , Thanks

Spec.
Capacity: 1700mAh
Voltage: 2S1P / 2 Cell / 6.6V
Discharge: 20C Constant / 40C Burst
Weight: 97g (including wire, plug & case)
Dimensions: 56 x 31 x 34mm
Balance Plug: JST-XH
Discharge Plug: JST & Futaba
 
hard to say...electronics will generally handle a little more than what they are rated for but how much more is not always obvious and running them over their stated rate will probably shorten life span I would guess as it will probably make them run hotter than normal. Something else to take into account is 6.6 Volts (if I understand LiFe packs correctly) is the nominal voltage of the pack. IDk what LiFes max charge rating is since HobbyKing has been taking their sweet @$$ time delivering mine to me but if they are along the same lines as lipos then the max charge will be a lil bit higher than 6.6V probably closer to 7V. IDK, never tried it myself so this is all just my speculation. What i would do to be on the safe side (unless you have cheap servos and RXs that can easily be replaced if damaged) is get a BEC and a couple of really cheap 2S lipos (or you could still use those LiFe packs if they are extras) for like 4 or 5 bucks each and just go that route. Constant 6V input and no worries. Hope this helps.
 
hard to say...electronics will generally handle a little more than what they are rated for but how much more is not always obvious and running them over their stated rate will probably shorten life span I would guess as it will probably make them run hotter than normal. Something else to take into account is 6.6 Volts (if I understand LiFe packs correctly) is the nominal voltage of the pack. IDk what LiFes max charge rating is since HobbyKing has been taking their sweet @$$ time delivering mine to me but if they are along the same lines as lipos then the max charge will be a lil bit higher than 6.6V probably closer to 7V. IDK, never tried it myself so this is all just my speculation. What i would do to be on the safe side (unless you have cheap servos and RXs that can easily be replaced if damaged) is get a BEC and a couple of really cheap 2S lipos (or you could still use those LiFe packs if they are extras) for like 4 or 5 bucks each and just go that route. Constant 6V input and no worries. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the great info , I will take your advice and get a BEC and may be a couple cheaper servos to try first.
I do have a few Gens 3S 11.1 20c that would fit in my build's very well and looks like this BEC at HK mit be the one I need 6V 3A UBEC 2-5S Lipoly (6-23v)

there shipping is not the grestest , I've ordered from them more then 10 time's and all we's take's 30 to 45 day's :D
 
If your gonna use a BEC then theres no need to use cheaper servos they will be fine on a 6V BEC. If you are running 2 Steering servos Id pick up a 5-6+A BEC. IDK what sevos your running but a good high torque steering servo and a decent spec throttle servo will push a 3A BEC pretty hard. I know a 3A BEC isnt up to set ups with dual high torque steering servos so I'm not 100% sure with that set up there. I usually only use 3A BECs on my lighter electric kits that just have a single steering servo. You could also run each servo on its own 3A BEC but thats kind of a pain to wire up but maybe cheaper as those 3A Hobbywing BECs are really cheap.
 
If your gonna use a BEC then theres no need to use cheaper servos they will be fine on a 6V BEC. If you are running 2 Steering servos Id pick up a 5-6+A BEC. IDK what sevos your running but a good high torque steering servo and a decent spec throttle servo will push a 3A BEC pretty hard. I know a 3A BEC isnt up to set ups with dual high torque steering servos so I'm not 100% sure with that set up there. I usually only use 3A BECs on my lighter electric kits that just have a single steering servo. You could also run each servo on its own 3A BEC but thats kind of a pain to wire up but maybe cheaper as those 3A Hobbywing BECs are really cheap.

I've been looking around at BEC's and I'm thinking you are right about them being cheap at HK . I was looking at this as well http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSWL3&P=7 but not sure what BEC to get being I'm a nitro guy.
What would be a good BEC that will work with 2S and 3S lipo's something with I low voltage alarm to help from running the lipo cells below 3.6 would be great .
The servo's I will be running are the savox SC-1256TG 277.2 oz @ 6v streeing , savox SC-1257TG 138.9 oz @ 6v brake/throttle , will be single streeing set up on my FLM build
 
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The Castle BEC is my BEC of choice but it is a bit pricey. If you have a castle link (the little circuit board that is used to program Castle Speed Controllers then you can program the Castle BEC to output anywhere from something like 3V all the way up to 10 or 11V. can't recall the exact numbers off the top of my head but its highly versatile. Of course if you dont have a Castle Link already then you wont be able to change it but I think (and dont quote me) that it comes by default at 6V. Check with castle or your LHS to be sure. You LHS can probably set it for you also if you dont have a link and never really plan on switching it much after its set up. Otherwise HW makes some 5+A BECs that would work also but alot of them come from overseas so you have to wait a lot of the time.

For a low voltage alarm you'll need something like THIS. You can velcro it to the pack itself and then when you get ready to use it you just plug the balance plug from the lipo into the alarm. I believe most of those cheap chinese ones like I just linked are set to go off at about 3.3V/C which is plenty good for a lipo. Most people usually set the LVC between 3.0 and 3.2V/C anyway.

---------- Post added at 8:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:37 PM ----------

You can get a new Castle 10A BEC on ebay for about 2.15 cheaper than tower hobbies and that includes shipping which I dont believe Tower Hobbies price does. HERE is a link to the cheapest one on eBay.
 
I know my receiver packs come off the charger between right at 6.5-7V, they are just typical 5 cell NiMH packs. Difference with them is that they drop down to 6V more quickly than Li* will.
 
Go a little more done to FLM and IRC builds
FLM , I started on the pipe and the a hpi hex hub up grade , I leave the rear A arm's off make's it a bit easyer to work on.

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IRC , had to rig a rear tank support onto I can find a stock one , the mid tank plate was drilled upside down so I had to mod the plate a bit to fit the tank and RX box , worked out ok so far just don't care for the riged support

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Been thinking of picking up a couple set's of SPI 3.2 bash wheel's and looking for a little info on proline Masher 3.2" All Terrain Tires.
how well did they hold up on concrete and black top.
I run about 75% time on dirt and gravel 25 % on concrete,black top.

Thank's for your time and info
 
The Castle BEC is my BEC of choice but it is a bit pricey. If you have a castle link (the little circuit board that is used to program Castle Speed Controllers then you can program the Castle BEC to output anywhere from something like 3V all the way up to 10 or 11V. can't recall the exact numbers off the top of my head but its highly versatile. Of course if you dont have a Castle Link already then you wont be able to change it but I think (and dont quote me) that it comes by default at 6V. Check with castle or your LHS to be sure. You LHS can probably set it for you also if you dont have a link and never really plan on switching it much after its set up. Otherwise HW makes some 5+A BECs that would work also but alot of them come from overseas so you have to wait a lot of the time.

For a low voltage alarm you'll need something like THIS. You can velcro it to the pack itself and then when you get ready to use it you just plug the balance plug from the lipo into the alarm. I believe most of those cheap chinese ones like I just linked are set to go off at about 3.3V/C which is plenty good for a lipo. Most people usually set the LVC between 3.0 and 3.2V/C anyway.

---------- Post added at 8:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:37 PM ----------

You can get a new Castle 10A BEC on ebay for about 2.15 cheaper than tower hobbies and that includes shipping which I dont believe Tower Hobbies price does. HERE is a link to the cheapest one on eBay.


I just wanted to say something about the castle 10A BECs... on higher voltage systems, the CC 10AMP becs have been known to go and take out most of the electronics with them. search about it in helicopter forums, as thats where i found the first info on this. Their 20A pro BEC does not suffer from the same issue, and you may want to look into that instead. I have a CC 10A bec but I am too scared to run it on my tekin stuff.
 
Been thinking of picking up a couple set's of SPI 3.2 bash wheel's and looking for a little info on proline Masher 3.2" All Terrain Tires.
how well did they hold up on concrete and black top.
I run about 75% time on dirt and gravel 25 % on concrete,black top.

Thank's for your time and info

Gona order the SPI wheel in a few week's , need info on a good 3.2 tire for bashing on the street and dirt :D
 
Today I sealed and installed the engine on the IRC build
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A pic with the pipe on , I took of my mid tank set and I'll put on the IRC mid tank set up when the roller get's here next week
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Looking good! I was wondering what arms are you using? The top arm looks like RPM
 
Looking good! I was wondering what arms are you using? The top arm looks like RPM

I'm' useing all the stock plastic for now , I was thinking of going RPM but I have 5extra set's of stock plastic to use up first , I all we's find deal's I just can't pass up LOL
 
I put the SAVSC1257TG , SAVSC1256TG in the FLM build and now I'm looking for somthing differnt for the IRC build , I've never had a Hitec but hear great things about them , so I've had my eye on the Hitec HS-7950TH and the Hitec HS-7940TH , has any ony had these servo's in a basher , if so how well did they hold up and how long did they last .
Thanks for any info you can share
 
I have a hitec and beat the hell out of it and it keeps going. I also have a savox and i think i like it more than the hitec, it seams to be stronger and quicker.
 
What did you end up doing with your linkages? I did helicopter linkages on mine and they have zero slop or friction. Stuff is silky smooth.

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