Rival MT10 diff fluid recommendations

[KeepOnKeepnOn]

Currently runninn fr60 ct500 r100. Love the 500 in the center. Looking for recommendations for the front and rear om my swb stunt truck. I read people prefer the same weight on both for better air control. I know jack squat about diff fluid other than I like the center at 500. Looking for air control. It"s a wheelie machine with the 500 and manageable with good throttle control. Read all on the subject and my brain hurts. I run mostly on grass and dirt. Temps adverage 90°-100° outside here most the year. Most jumps I hit I can get a long run at.

 

[332_RC]

My Noto, pic to the left, mainly on 4s, I run 60/325/30 & that works really really well in that stunt truck. After a year with that, needs maintenance, I'll probably go 60/325/50. 30 is a little light but 60 may be too much.

 

[bill_delong]

There's no hard set rule on what your fluids need to be, it all comes down to what you want the car to do.

My rule of thumb is rear can never go thicker than the front and the center diff is key to making the car easier/harder to drive.

The above recommendation of 60/325/30 makes sense, though if I wanted an "easier to drive" setup, I might go with 15/30/7 which would still be able to wheelie, but also offer stability for easier cornering without concern of the truck spinning out of control.

Use the following guide from HUDY to decide what will work best for your needs:

 

[WickedFog]

Currently runninn fr60 ct500 r100. Love the 500 in the center. Looking for recommendations for the front and rear om my swb stunt truck. I read people prefer the same weight on both for better air control. I know jack squat about diff fluid other than I like the center at 500. Looking for air control. It"s a wheelie machine with the 500 and manageable with good throttle control. Read all on the subject and my brain hurts. I run mostly on grass and dirt. Temps adverage 90°-100° outside here most the year. Most jumps I hit I can get a long run at.

Your numbers sound about right for a monster truck. I wouldn't go much lighter, you will end up with a lot of one wheel spinning a lot at each end. Leave the lighter fluids for the buggies. It's all in how you drive it and what you like.

 

[332_RC]

There's no hard set rule on what your fluids need to be, it all comes down to what you want the car to do.

My rule of thumb is rear can never go thicker than the front and the center diff is key to making the car easier/harder to drive.

The above recommendation of 60/325/30 makes sense, though if I wanted an "easier to drive" setup, I might go with 15/30/7 which would still be able to wheelie, but also offer stability for easier cornering without concern of the truck spinning out of control.

Use the following guide from HUDY to decide what will work best for your needs:

View attachment 186606

Its 'easier to drive'- its not a track only racer for prepped dirt sugar tracks, its a all out stunt basher truck. My Noto never spins out of control. His is a 1/10. Noto is bigger & heavy MT's need thicker fluid. 10/100/10 was not enough for the Noto. My recommendation for @KeepOnKeepnOn would be 60/300/30. That will keep front ballooning down, still get some wheelies, but it will be much more fun & controllable.

 

[bill_delong]

Its 'easier to drive'- its not a track only racer for prepped dirt sugar tracks, its a all out stunt basher truck. My Noto never spins out of control. His is a 1/10. Noto is bigger & heavy MT's need thicker fluid. 10/100/10 was not enough for the Noto. My recommendation for @KeepOnKeepnOn would be 60/300/30. That will keep front ballooning down, still get some wheelies, but it will be much more fun & controllable.

15/30/7 in the following truck on a parking lot surface:

 

[KeepOnKeepnOn]

Its not 'easier to drive'- its not a track only racer for prepped dirt sugar tracks, its a all out stunt basher truck. My Noto never spins out of control.

Typical of my experience once I tinkered with the shock mounts locations. I never lose control now! Stock the front would spin out, rear end buck, and had to much roll. Moved rear a arm mount one hole out and fixed the front but then the back spun out. Moved rear back to stock location and the front out a hole. Perfection! Adjusted my squat dead level across the horizontal plane of the axles and Bam! No more bucking. Also cut the chassis roll where it was manageable with throttle control. Got alot of info from yall about shocks and weights but have yet to tinker with them. Got my ground game on point. Now I'm working on on my air control. Working up slowly! Till I get my skill up to do full sends stock shock setup will suffice. Have some diff fluids laying around and some time so I decided to focus on that. Thanx for all yalls knowledge. Helps out tremendously!

 

[WickedFog]

15/30/7 in the following truck on a parking lot surface:

Totally different setup for pavement, and racing, and a much heavier rig running on nitro. I don't see how that is remotely relevant for a lightweight monster truck basher in grass and dirt. If your fluid is too light in a these on dirt, it will spin one wheel and go nowhere. The center diff being heavy like he has it helps. Our Granite has a slipper, locked down fairly snug. The op is using roughly the same front and rear fluids that we have in our Granite. It didn't have much fluid at all in the diffs and absolutely sucked in dirt, which would be similar to running a lighter fluid. Since putting in heavier fluid it does much better.

 

[332_RC]

15/30/7 in the following truck on a parking lot surface:

I think you need to change your diff to fluids, you keep getting out of control

 

[tntpoof]

Diff fluid. is all up to what you want your rc to do...track is way different than basher. or air