RC10GT Questions

[Monkey Wrench]

I recently purchased a used RC10GT with an OS .18 CVR. The truck is a bit rougher looking than the pictures let on, but that's not an issue (and I like wrenching on these things anyway!)

It didn't come with a manual, so I downloaded one of TA's site. Looking at some of the other links on their site, they refer to one as a "tub chassis" and, having searched this forum on GT's, it seems there are some differences between the different "years", for lack of a better term, of this truck. The one immediate pain point is finding matching rims for this guy! The rear axles taper just as they get to the hub carrier, so the set I just purchased fit great up front, but the axles holes don't account for the taper. I can still take them back, but the LHS' selection of rims is weak to begin with, so I'm not hopeful of finding them there.

Anyhow, some questions for owners of this thing:
1. Is there a way to determine what "year" GT I own?
2. Are there enclosed battery and RX boxes that can bolt right on?
3. Is there a difference between the shiny and black MIP CVD's for the GT (or in general, for that matter)?
4. I have heard of alternate servo-saver set-ups for this, but no one (at LHS) can give me specifics. Anyone aware of alternate solutions here?


EDIT: HERE ARE SOME PICTURES OF IT:

ALSO, HERE ARE A FEW SHOTS OF THE REAR "BONES", ARE THESE MIP CVD'S?

I'M THINKING THIS IS AN OLDER MODEL RC10GT. I KNOW THE REAR AXELS ARE 1/4". PLEASE SHARE ANY ADDITIONAL INSIGHTS OR ADVICE! I APPRECIATE IT!


I suppose that's all I have for the time being. I'll edit this if any more come to mind to avoid posting repetitive threads.

Thanks in advance for the assist! It is appreciated!

 

[bustedgears]

1. I'm not sure
2. RPM makes one for the rx, but not the battery (as far as I know)
3. I don't think so, but the shiny ones might be stronger
4. I think that one comes with a cam style servo saver stock, but there is an upgrade out there.

 

[Nitrobuzzard]

If I'm not mistaken, the rear axle size you have is 1/4".....the wheels you purchased are probably for the 3/16" axle........If it has 1/4" rear axles, chances are its an "older" model......post a few pics and that would help out.....from front, side and rear views........

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Yeah, planning on posting pic's. Wife's got the camera right now, so I need to wait for her to get home.

 

[Tweak]

Well I can't say much about the dimensions of the tires or anything, But you will definately want to take the stock axle sets of the minute you get the truck. The pins that slide thru the axles have a nasty habit of stripping out the inside of your rims.

the stock motor is great for all you can put it thru and the thing will really fly. Take extra care of the shock towers and make sure to pick up Tower Hobbies Aluminum Tranny brace if it is the only thing you get. it connects the Tranny to the rear bulkhead and really rigidifies (like that? made my own word) the rear end. Towerhobbies will also hook you up with a Reciever box, but in all reality it is just not needed. the box is big and due to the sloping design of the chasis it has hardly any room. When I had mine on it really helped even out the weight, but IMO just felt weird. I settled for mounting a battery pack up between the front shocks and using some of FastEd's two sided tape to mount the reciever to the side of the stock gas tank. The servo's stand alone and you could easily place the reciever many other places.

Sorry to say, I am sure there are a diffrences in qualities between the shiny CVD's but I have no idea about specifications. Same goes for the Servo Saver, but the stock one has been fine for me, never had to replace it.

 

[FastEddy]

CVDs are the same. One set is shiny and the other isn't.
I liked the protection of the RPM receiver case. Its a bit tight and doesn't look all that great but its bulletproof.

Play with the battery mounting and see what you like. I tried both front and rear and would change it up every now and then just for something to do.

 

[HeartBreak]

The strength difference between normal and shiny CVD's isn't all that much. I've snapped both with just a CV.12 (yes, a half horse engine). Your best bet is to make sure the slipper is set properly (manual covers this), as ANY engine will snap a cvd without the slipper giving a little.

Next, the rear rims for the taper axles are shared with the T2. If you desire to covert the rear hubs to T3 (so you can buy something more current/easy to find), you will need CVD axles (they sell the stubs seperate), the bearings, and the hub carriers. That is a modification I would STRONGLY recommend, as the bearings are a larger diameter, and able to take the extra power.

Mine started out life as a first-gen GT, but I upgraded it to the Factory Team over time. The largest differences are the rear axles, the servo saver, and the tub. That really is about it. Oh, and the engine mount/rear end brace.

If yours is the black tub, Associated sells a GT upgrade kit that comes with the blue chassis, braces, and new mounts. I don't remember how much it is, but you can find it for cheap, I'm sure. Hands down, it's worth the price. It gives the truck a little more stability, and makes it a bit more reliable (the chassis is one piece, instead of a seperate nose piece).

On mine, aside from being a 'pure factory team', I put the TZ.12 in mine (rear exhaust) and the MIP ball bearing steering upgrade. Definately the best two hopups on the truck, hands down.

Outside of that, you'll love the GT; it's a very nimble truck, and can hang with the best of 'em.

 

[Monkey Wrench]

I updated original post with pic's. Thanks guys!

 

[Nitrobuzzard]

yeah thats an "older" version...........3 reasons...

1 - front nose skid - if you'll notice there are 6 screws in the nose...newer models used the front 2 screws for the skid for a total of 4 (difference in chassis as well)

2 - front tube mounts - these could've been swapped but I doubt it because of the front of chassis

3 - 1/4" rear stubs, newer models went to the 3/16" rear stubs. If it were me I'd swap the rear axles to the 3/16" ones and put bearings in there. You can do it without swapping the axles but the bearings don't last as long IMO

The CVDs look like MIP but can't say for certain...

Bit of advise, if it hasn't been done already, I would upgrade the tranny to ball bearings, It came stock with bushings.....

I had 2 of those and one I still have, along with a newer version, upgrade to full bearings and swap the rear stubs and you'll be pleased with it.....great basher trucks.....

good luck with it and enjoy it, they can take on heck of a beating...........

Nitro

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Yeah, I've asked "Santa Wife" for a fresh set of MIP CVD's for the rear (1/4"), a full bearing set and ball bearings for the tranny, along with some extra gears. Also asked for a new header and some other odds & ends. I figure I should have the guy ready to roll come the thaw (if not sooner!) Thanks for the tips! I appreciate it!

 

[.21Rc10GT]

Get some MIP 3/16" cvds, some RPM rear axle carriers w/oversized bearings and you will be set.

 

[HeartBreak]

definately what .21GT said; the larger rear carriers with the 3/16s are the way to go.

That looks like either an RTR or RTR plus... Most likely the RTR plus, judging by the shock towers.

 

[.21Rc10GT]

That is the older version of the GT... The one before the Plus, but after the tub chassis...