Rb10 servo recommendations

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buggyboi69

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Messages
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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
Can one of you kind fellows help with a recommendation for an upgraded servo?
Ideally I would like to stay with protek.

What should I be looking for when selecting a servo in general?
Main purpose: bashing/occasional dirt racing.
 
Can one of you kind fellows help with a recommendation for an upgraded servo?
Ideally I would like to stay with protek.

What should I be looking for when selecting a servo in general?
Main purpose: bashing/occasional dirt racing.
For the RB10 you dont need a lot of torque as its a light and small car. Anything over 150oz/in would be fine for myself. technically you could get by with a little less but its pretty hard to get too much torque imo.

The other thing to look at is speed. Faster the better although once you start getting under about .07 sec speeds its going to get "twitchy". That being said you can can always use radio settings to help compensate if you find yourself with a servo thats a little faster than youd like.

Other than that the size is something to pay attention too also. In a small buggy like that you may need a low profile servo so be aware of what the dimensions are you have to work with
 
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Can one of you kind fellows help with a recommendation for an upgraded servo?
Ideally I would like to stay with protek.

What should I be looking for when selecting a servo in general?
Main purpose: bashing/occasional dirt racing.
The RB10 can use almost any standard 1/10TH servo. I typically use these in all my vehicles: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1343782923...jLJjV6wja4PSvwfx3|tkp:Bk9SR4bcxdmsYQ&LH_BIN=1 They are waterproof, metal geared, digital, and fairly durable for how cheap they are. The RB10 comes with the Reedy RS3005A: https://www.associatedelectrics.com..._rs3005a_digital_hv_aluminum_brushless_servo/ or RT3507A: https://www.associatedelectrics.com..._rt3507a_digital_hv_aluminum_brushless_servo/ so, if you are absolutely set on a Protek, just find one that has the same specs as the Reedy.
 
Where do I start when I go shopping for a servo:
  • Set a budget ($40~$60 my past normal servo budget)
  • Are replacement gear sets available? (if the answer is no, the servo doesn't make my cut)
  • Speed that I want (0.09~0.14 sec./60° my comfort zone)
  • Torque that I want (depends on scale of RC, tires, servo saver, etc.)
  • Gear material that I prefer (all metal, most of the time)
  • Voltage needed to get speed/torque
I like shopping for the middle tier range/moderately priced stuff for my track bashing RCs. You can find tons of servos out there with a great balance of speed/torque. I would take a servo with more torque than a servo with blistering speed (to a degree of course). It all depends on where and how a person uses their RC car/truck.

Nowadays, racing off-road platforms on high traction tracks with not so forgiving surfaces, will add to the stress/torture of a servo. Sometimes tire size, and the use (or lack of) a built-in servo saver will need to be taken into account also. Most choose to go overboard with torque when choosing a servo (not a bad thing).

Targeting a group of servos with certain speed/torque specs? Watch out for 6.6v, 7.4v, 8.4v High Voltage servo specs 🤔 in the fine print so you are not totally caught off guard if you are running a speed control that only puts out 6 volts for receiver/servo. ;)

Not all gears are made the same. Aluminum, brass, steel, plastic, titanium....take that into consideration when servo shopping. Sometimes not all gears in a metal gear servo are actually metal. You may have to dig deep into specs, and manufacturer's website to uncover some info 🤔. That being said, if one of the servo gears is a plastic composite... not all brands us great plastic composites.

Everybody has their own opinion on what value means to them. Before shelling out money for any servo, I would need to have replacement gears available for purchasing if/when the time ever comes. I certainly would feel more comfortable spending $40~$60 on a servo, and know I don't have to throw it in the trash after many months of use just because of worn/stripped gears.

The servo choices back in the day were not like today's market. Today's market is huge, and, with all the re-brands out and about, it sometimes takes genealogy experts to track things down to their OEM origins.

A couple of my latest kits give servo torque suggestions in the manuals. When in doubt, go to specific RC platform thread, and ask what servo everyone is using...that in itself can be fun to see all the responses you'll get.

Super fast is not always better. Being in a high traction racing situation, and nerves getting the best of you, a fast servo may make your RC feel twitchy... possibly making you slower. If you have a radio that is more than the entry-level type, there is a good chance your radio can tame a wicked fast servo with different settings/parameters until you get to a comfortable track navigating speed.

After being in the hobby awhile, and following everyone's moves on interwebs, you'll soon pick up on “the good, the bad, and the ugly” when it comes to servos. And just like everything else out there, when shopping for the “best bang for the buck” type of items, praise & horror stories will will surface for all brands. Trends change. People jumping on/jumping off the next great servo bandwagon so fast nowadays.

Good luck!
 
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Where do I start when I go shopping for a servo:
  • Set a budget ($40~$60 my past normal servo budget)
  • Are replacement gear sets available? (if the answer is no, the servo doesn't make my cut)
  • Speed that I want (0.09~0.14 sec./60° my comfort zone)
  • Torque that I want (depends on scale of RC, tires, servo saver, etc.)
  • Gear material that I prefer (all metal, most of the time)
  • Voltage needed to get speed/torque
I like shopping for the middle tier range/moderately priced stuff for my track bashing RCs. You can find tons of servos out there with a great balance of speed/torque. I would take a servo with more torque than a servo with blistering speed (to a degree of course). It all depends on where and how a person uses their RC car/truck.

Nowadays, racing off-road platforms on high traction tracks with not so forgiving surfaces, will add to the stress/torture of a servo. Sometimes tire size, and the use (or lack of) a built-in servo saver will need to be taken into account also. Most choose to go overboard with torque when choosing a servo (not a bad thing).

Targeting a group of servos with certain speed/torque specs? Watch out for 6.6v, 7.4v, 8.4v High Voltage servo specs 🤔 in the fine print so you are not totally caught off guard if you are running a speed control that only puts out 6 volts for receiver/servo. ;)

Not all gears are made the same. Aluminum, brass, steel, plastic, titanium....take that into consideration when servo shopping. Sometimes not all gears in a metal gear servo are actually metal. You may have to dig deep into specs, and manufacturer's website to uncover some info 🤔. That being said, if one of the servo gears is a plastic composite... not all brands us great plastic composites.

Everybody has their own opinion on what value means to them. Before shelling out money for any servo, I would need to have replacement gears available for purchasing if/when the time ever comes. I certainly would feel more comfortable spending $40~$60 on a servo, and know I don't have to throw it in the trash after many months of use just because of worn/stripped gears.

The servo choices back in the day were not like today's market. Today's market is huge, and, with all the re-brands out and about, it sometimes takes genealogy experts to track things down to their OEM origins.

A couple of my latest kits give servo torque suggestions in the manuals. When in doubt, go to specific RC platform thread, and ask what servo everyone is using...that in itself can be fun to see all the responses you'll get.

Super fast is not always better. Being in a high traction racing situation, and nerves getting the best of you, a fast servo may make your RC feel twitchy... possibly making you slower. If you have a radio that is more than the entry-level type, there is a good chance your radio can tame a wicked fast servo with different settings/parameters until you get to a comfortable track navigating speed.

After being in the hobby awhile, and following everyone's moves on interwebs, you'll soon pick up on “the good, the bad, and the ugly” when it comes to servos. And just like everything else out there, when shopping for the “best bang for the buck” type of items, praise & horror stories will will surface for all brands. Trends change. People jumping on/jumping off the next great servo bandwagon so fast nowadays.

Good luck!
Very well said! This is basically the same way I shop for a servo. And I agree, you can have a servo too fast, especially if you are racing and are fairly new to it. Having exponent adjustments in your radio really help.

Another thing I always look at in selecting a servo, which is also affected by tire width, is scrub steer. The use of hex/hub extenders seems to be a pretty common practice nowadays, and most people don't consider how much stress that places on their steering servo due to the added scrub steer. But this is mainly important to note on 4wd vehicles, with heavy diffs or lockers. For those situations I would suggest going a bit crazier with your servo torque spec.
 
The RB10 chassis is probably close to the same servo spacing/orientation as the RC10B4/B5 chassis, and most standard servos should fit no problem seeing that the RB10 already comes with a standard 7kg servo already installed. The included ESC probably puts out 6v to the receiver/servo seeing it's most likely a RTR version of Hobbywing's QuicRun-WP-10BL60.

Forgot to mention that not all servos are designed the same. What I mean by that is mainly the top of a servo may differ more so than others. Some platforms may require a certain style servo horn to get the best positioning/alignment of linkage.

I had to do some fancy/not so fancy Dremel work to get things done (make room for steering link)...
servo.jpg


The RB10 comes with a servo saver that mounts on the servo itself. If you choose to forgo the servo saver, a 9180 servo horn or similar style horn is needed for correct ball stud alignment. I run a lot of my 1/10 scale RCs without a servo saver... just gotta make sure to have a servo with enough torque and good quality gears to take the abuse.
 
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The RB10 chassis is probably close to the same servo spacing/orientation as the RC10B4/B5 chassis, and most standard servos should fit no problem seeing that the RB10 already comes with a standard 7kg servo already installed. The included ESC probably puts out 6v to the receiver/servo seeing it's most likely a RTR version of Hobbywing's QuicRun-WP-10BL60.

Forgot to mention that not all servos are designed the same. What I mean by that is mainly the top of a servo may differ more so than others. Some platforms may require a certain style servo horn to get the best positioning/alignment of linkage.

I had to do some fancy/not so fancy Dremel work to get things done (make room for steering link)...
View attachment 157710

The RB10 comes with a servo saver that mounts on the servo itself. If you choose to forgo the servo saver, a 9180 servo horn or similar style horn is needed for correct ball stud alignment. I run a lot of my 1/10 scale RCs without a servo saver... just gotta make sure to have a servo with enough torque and good quality gears to take the abuse.
Do you have a part number on amain?
Bought a protek servo horn and the alignment was the issue
What about this? It's in stock at my workhttps://www.amainhobbies.com/ecopow...que-metal-gear-digital-servo-ecp-120t/p734714
 
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