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Plaidfish
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I have very strong feelings about people w/ low ethics.....I'll save those words for people like that I meet in person......you either lied then or your lying now....which is it? if you were Lying then cause you thought we'd think it was cool then just sack up and own your screw up...if your lying now then you really are a scumbag........
kwong2001
Hardcore RCTalk User
MAN, this thread went to hell fast. Why doesn't everyone just agree to disagree? Seriously, there's 10,000 different ways to break-in an engine, all claiming to be the best way....find one that works for you, and use it
rbmaxxbasher
Gone - bye bye.
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everyone just cool down a second an read.
heat cycle is the method suggested by almost every engine manufaturer I've seen.
There is no way you are going to convince me that breaking in at wide open throttle is the way to do it. Not when I spend my $250 on an engine.
Secondly, When an Engine is broken in the actual process that is taking place is that the moving parts are being worn-in. Meaning that the piston is not exact, the sleeve is not exact, and the crankshaft is not exact. Running in at low load makes up for the minute lacks in precision.
Consequently, during a break in, while seating seals and making things exact (or as close as possible.) it is not a good idea to wide open the thing, especially under no load. Some engines can take it. High Dollar engines. When your talking about a regular engine $200 or so, if you break in an engine like that, it will almost certainly break the con-rod. Then if you send it to, well O.S. in this case, they will tell you that it was the break in procedure and it wasn't their fault.
The fact is: all engines wear. If you take good care of it, clean it, keep it a little rich, and break it in properly, it will deliver good performance for a given period of time.
heat cycle is the method suggested by almost every engine manufaturer I've seen.
There is no way you are going to convince me that breaking in at wide open throttle is the way to do it. Not when I spend my $250 on an engine.
Secondly, When an Engine is broken in the actual process that is taking place is that the moving parts are being worn-in. Meaning that the piston is not exact, the sleeve is not exact, and the crankshaft is not exact. Running in at low load makes up for the minute lacks in precision.
Consequently, during a break in, while seating seals and making things exact (or as close as possible.) it is not a good idea to wide open the thing, especially under no load. Some engines can take it. High Dollar engines. When your talking about a regular engine $200 or so, if you break in an engine like that, it will almost certainly break the con-rod. Then if you send it to, well O.S. in this case, they will tell you that it was the break in procedure and it wasn't their fault.
The fact is: all engines wear. If you take good care of it, clean it, keep it a little rich, and break it in properly, it will deliver good performance for a given period of time.
The WOT method isn't what you'd think unless I'm mistaken. I watched a airplane video when I was at a LHS as a guy was breaking in a OS 2 stroke plane engine. On a stand, with a prop (load) and running rich, it was running at WOT, but wasn't hitting "peak" RPM's due to the richness and the load the prop was putting on it. The engine got up to around 210 within the first tank with all the air the prop was pushing over the engine. Then he'd shut it down, put the piston at BDC and let it cool. He did this about 10 times, each time tuning it for performance a bit, then installed it in a plane.
I'm not saying I'd ever do it, but it was interesting to see it work.
I'm not saying I'd ever do it, but it was interesting to see it work.
Plaidfish
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ok guys first off..my comments to crisco head are based on him being a scammer scum....second the WOT break in has to be done in such a way that you make the engine able to sustain a constant load no variations at all....like bolting it onto a stand and bolting a prop to the shaft or having a pulley system attached to a proppellor.....once it's started you richen the piss out of it so your internal parts are getting bathed in oil as it's revving like crazy...think about this one....the only reason you can't rev your mill in the car or MT is the tune you need to sustain low RPMs ...if you richened your mill up to run WOT w/o exploding you would never be able to idle...if it's on a stand you can fatten it up and let it rip......as far as conrods blowing from this process, I've had 2 RGs done like this in the past month or so....both are kicking ass one modded and one bone straight stock.....I've got 3 gallons on the modded one and it's still tight as hell when it's cold......feels like it's got the mech. pinch still.......and the conrods are showing no signs of failure yet......even the crank journal is round and the mill has had almost 6 gallons on it since new (3 since it was pinched).....I really don't care to argue about this but I have the prrof in my buggy for me.....as far as breaking in in the car goes you can't convince me that the conditions there are stable enough to break it in correctly......ask any engine builder if it's better to break in w/ constant exact RPMs & temps or sporatic RPMS & temps.....I'd like to see what kind of engines they build if they say the latter method
rossb
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I did one idle tank on my HPI S-25, let it cool, and then drove it around at low speeds for a few more tanks letting it cool after each tank. I took the engine out of service after 3 gallons and it still seemed to have like-new pinch.
I did one idle tank on my Picco 26, let it cool, and then drove it around at low speeds for a few more tanks letting it cool after each tank. The engine currently has over 3 gallons on it and it has like-new pinch.
I did one idle tank on my HPI 18ss, let it cool, and then drove it around at low speeds for a few more tanks letting it cool after each tank. The engine currently has 1 gallon on it and it has like-new pinch.
I just bought a new Picco .12 ROAR for an R40 I am building. You can probably guess how I am going to break it in. Use the break-in method that you feel most comfortable with. Better yet, how about following the instructions that came with your motor? Run your motor a bit on the rich side, don't let it overheat, don't over-rev it, run a good and clean airfilter, and your motor should last a while.
I did one idle tank on my Picco 26, let it cool, and then drove it around at low speeds for a few more tanks letting it cool after each tank. The engine currently has over 3 gallons on it and it has like-new pinch.
I did one idle tank on my HPI 18ss, let it cool, and then drove it around at low speeds for a few more tanks letting it cool after each tank. The engine currently has 1 gallon on it and it has like-new pinch.
I just bought a new Picco .12 ROAR for an R40 I am building. You can probably guess how I am going to break it in. Use the break-in method that you feel most comfortable with. Better yet, how about following the instructions that came with your motor? Run your motor a bit on the rich side, don't let it overheat, don't over-rev it, run a good and clean airfilter, and your motor should last a while.
Plaidfish
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olds97_lss said:
that's exactly the way I do mine and it kicks ass.....ross I'm not saying the stand method is the only way.....I just think kids r4eading what Joe pro Schmoe does for his breakin is not always the best way for someone spending their hard earned money on a new mill to try......I've broken in plenty of mills in the car and had very little trouble doing so...always some stubborn part of the process to piss me off though....I'm doing the 4th engine in a month on a stand this week and I just think it's SOOOO much easier (IMO) and you have more control over the whole process.....I got into this hobby to have fun not to be joe pro racer #4067......I found a method that works great and I tell people my good experiences w/ it....Not trying to cram it down someones throat...in fact the first time I heard about this method I thought NO FREAKIN WAY would I do that......but it works extremely well....I have not had very good luck w/ a lot of mills I've tried...mostly cause I don't drop 300 on a new mill, I buy RGs and Fantoms.....but I get some serious performance increase out of mine since doing this method of break in.......
anyway I'm beating my own dead horse here so I'll stop sounding like a preacher......
Bouzouki said:
Have you done it on a $100-$200 engine? Not provoking, just curious if you have to see what the end results were like. Good power, long life...
Plaidfish
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I have on 2 RGs and they both kick ass.......do it on a stand though...IMO....the car is just not as easy to maintain WOT run times......
I don't really have the means to do it on a stand, but when I do, I may try it.
How many gallons before your piston/sleeve need replaced/resized?
How many gallons before your piston/sleeve need replaced/resized?
Plaidfish
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I've got 3 engines I'm swapping out and runing in my buggy so I've only got 3 gallons on one of the RGs so far....2 on the stock one....and just under one on the VZ-b...I'll have a fantom .27 going soon as well.....but the RG w/ 3 gallons is still WAY tight....I know most higher end mills stay snug for a longer time than cheapos but it's hard to turn over still...I find that to be pretty impressive since mine are usually fairly soft after 3 gallons......I still have to roll the piston down.....I usually don't have to do that after about a gallon cause it will always fall down.....
