Nitro Engine Operation (pls review for accuracy)

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I meant that it's easier to dyno tune. I know gdi is a fairly new technology, but there are tuner parts available now. The main point I'm trying to make is that gdi is the future. You make the old school injection sound like rocket science.
Oh btw, a lot of street guys use stand alones.
 
Anyway, let's get back to your nitro engine. When you say it has good compression, I get that. I want you to see if it's tight at tdc without the head on. That is how you can determine the condition of the engine.
 
You make the old school injection sound like rocket science.
Oh btw, a lot of street guys use stand alones.
fuel injection is rocket science compared to adding the fuel through the crankcase! :hehe: Lots of people use megasquirt too, but that doesn't mean that I would ever mess with that crap on my vehicle. Stand alone ecus have issues running all the oem controls. Sometimes you can keep the factory ecu to run the dash, locks, fuel pump, etc, but sometimes you can't. Lots of people run no speedo, gauges, etc and rig up a $20 tach, but it's not something I would do, and sure as hell not something I would put on a customers car. Just because you 'can' run a stand alone (or even a piggyback) doesn't mean that you should, unless you could care less about idle and part throttle and only care about WOT performance (lots of people think that is totally acceptable, but not me) I prefer the car to run like stock at part throttle, but the go like hell at WOT. That is how I tune cars. There are hundreds of 'tooners' out there that I wouldn't let tuna sandwich.
Anyway, let's get back to your nitro engine. When you say it has good compression, I get that. I want you to see if it's tight at tdc without the head on. That is how you can determine the condition of the engine.
It's still a little tight when the glow plug is out. I thought I was F'd because it felt real weak when I spun it over, but then I noticed I took the plug out:hehe: I do remember feeling slight resistance at the top with the head off, and I thought, something is wrong. Is there a reason that it should have less clearance between the piston and sleeve at the top? Is it suppose to be like that? Is the engine F'd?
 
That is perfectly normal. The resistance you are feeling at the top of the stroke is the pinch. Because there are no rings, the sleeve tapers in order to achieve compression.
 
umm... this thread when south in a hurry! I appreciate your right up, and all that is in your initial right up sounds good. Lets just slow down with the I've done this... and i know that. We come here to share with and support one another!
 
With as wet as your carb is in those first pics, I'd tear the carb apart, clean and seal it. I'd have to assume a leak somewhere on the carb itself. Also since it sat so long, I'd replace the o-rings on the neck, HSN and LSN due to possible dry rot or you will just fight it some more.
 
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