New body for the wheeler

[DavidB1126]

LFR body. Will be better than the kit light weight one.
Tried to do a different color scheme and tried to fade them in to each other. Didn't really work but it will be fine.

 

[Chubaka]

Dark bleeds through light. Although I don't recall doing a fade, try the dark first and have it end super light. After that the light color should cover and have a nice fade.

Been doing this since 2007 and I just messed one up to.

I'm curious. The roll of shop towels is blue but you ended up with white paper towels?

 

[DavidB1126]

It works
There still blue shop towels. Maybe the flash light made it look white. It gets dark too early now
I'll keep it since this is more durable than any other body out there.

Apparently bomb pop melted. Probably because I can't come out and race alot.

 

[DavidB1126]

Added stickers for more horsepower.
I don't have a scale. I should weigh the car and see if it's in the roar legal range. If it isn't than I wonder how I can remove weight. Most likely titanium screws / hardware, titanium turnbuckles, and stuff like that.

Feels much better taking it on / off. Easier too. The old one, which is the kit light weight one, cracks, falling apart, duct tape holding it together. This one should be better as it's thicker and less flexible. Should last longer too.

New body name: Bomb Pop Melted Edition. Limited until it freezes again.

 

[9x19]

Looks good.

I saw the B74.1 is on sale for $350, but I just don't have the desire to race anymore.

Hello, my name is Robert, and I'm a bashaholic.

 

[lambdapriest]

Hell yeah man, looks great! I dig the big pink Hobbywing sticker - I have one of those, but I don’t think it would look right on the gold car.

Regarding weight - I am pretty sure that the ROAR limits are minimum limits, not maximum limits; but if you want to save weight, well, here’s what I’d do - prioritize things that are going to cut weight while increasing performance in some way other than ”just by saving weight”.

For example - a TI turnbuckle kit will not only save weight, but it’ll make the car handle a little better because your steering and roll linkages will be stiffer. FT carbon arms will save a little weight, but more than anything they’ll pull a bunch of slop out of the car’s hinges. You could also try @bill_delong’s 4wd trick of running 2wd wheels and tires up front - that should help the car accelerate quite a bit faster due to reducing spinning mass. You’re on the right track with a lighter body - that saved nearly an ounce on my car, if I remember correctly, and by cutting so much weight off of the highest part of the car, you’ve lowered your CG, which should get your CG closer to the roll center, which should help handling a little.

 

[DavidB1126]

https://www.amainhobbies.com/leadfi...d-buggy-body-w-tactic-wings-lfre3053/p1444084

 

[hood52]

If your running a 13.5 motor you can look into composite gears for your diffs. Also what size battery are you running? I just went from a 6000 mah to 4700 mah, saved a lot of weight. I'm considering the ti turnbuckles and ceramic bearing.

 

[DavidB1126]

If your running a 13.5 motor you can look into composite gears for your diffs. Also what size battery are you running? I just went from a 6000 mah to 4700 mah, saved a lot of weight. I'm considering the ti turnbuckles and ceramic bearing.

I used to run a 6100 Maclan pack, I have those for backup now and my main packs are 5200 CHNL packs (all are Lipo HV 7.6 packs)

I think ill keep with the stock metal gears, as I might move to mod in the future.

Had to replace my first bearing yesterday, as I was wrenching on the car, the back bearing in one of the front hubs was blown into pieces.

 

[DavidB1126]

Alright I'm overcoming it. It actually looks good. Hey, atleast now we can tell my car and my uncles car apart.
Here is his car. The only thing different is one it says Xray and 2 my old body had silver in the middle.

Next I feel like I should just hydro-dip a body and call it a day.