New 3Racing Chassis (silver carbon fiber)

[HumboldtBlazer]

Ta da! Here is my new 3Racing chassis from www.3racing.com.hk and completely new screw set from Hex-Head from www.hexcrews.com nifty-10-50 if ya ask me. Now some will argue it's all for looks, sure it is, and we will see if there is any other benefits to this chassis.

Things I hope to accomplish out of this thread:

1. Inform people if this is a well made product.
1b. To see if the chassis is easily replaced and parts meet well.

2 To see if the flat carbon fiber w/side rail support is more or less rigid than the stock "pan" type plastic chassis (which with my other mods I have reduced the overall benefit of most of the stock "supports").
2b. To determine if the new 3Racing chassis is lighter than the stock chassis.

I can already see there is more room to fit almost whatever (with reason) battery/electronics configuration. With the stock chassis you are hindered by a lot of different factors and to be honest I starred at it for hours with ideas to hack and slash but for tad over $70 to my door and the bling to match I though I would give this chassis a go

As you can see it looks great, I give it a 10 in this regard. The screw kit was like $17 and a NO BRAINER compared to the spaghetti noodles that come with the RC. I waited until the new chassis came until I installed them as I was lazy and didn't want to do it twice. I killed my SPY. Dunno really guess she just couldn't handle the power, little bitch I spat upon it as it melted.

More coming..........

 

[Team 17]

I'm jealous! Keep us updated.

 

[Maxx Trooper]

daaaammmmmmnnnnn she is fffiiiinnnnnneeeeeee. lol i bet my HPi Micro RS4 will outrun ur mini-t. lol.

later

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

I bet my HPI Micro will outrun your HPI micro https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11043

 

[Team 17]

Well I bet my M18 will take both ur HPI's! :ahh:

 

[mcvickj]

I was just wondering if you received your new chassis and then I stumbled onto this thread. It looks nice. :thumbup:

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Some modding was needed, I will post an update tonight. The conversion is almost done.

 

[Maxx Trooper]

i have a HPI Micro RS4 with the first version of the Motek chassis, a Flash esc, Trinity Moster Motor, ball bearings, GP front locked diff, Hi-tec HS- 81 metal gear servo, 7.2 volt 1200mah battery pack, i also got a brand new set of foams i can throw on it too. Urs is really sweet though, how do u like that Rabid motor? I was just wondering what motor plate ur using for the Rabid motor?

later

*EDIT* nevermind i found the motor plate u use.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Hey guys this is MY MINI-T 3RACING HOW TO THREAD! Now I can sidetrack a thread better than just about anyone but for posterity please refrain from going off topic if possible. Thank you

-Blazer

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Originally posted by Team 17
Well I bet my M18 will take both ur HPI's! :ahh:

WHatever guys. When I'm done with my RadioShack X-mods it will spank all of yall.hehe.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Update

You can remove the rear pod as one piece no need for it's disassembly here. The rear pod is held to the chassis by 11 screws 7 on the bottom and 4 on the top.

Here are the two front aluminum chassis braces that screw to the chassis and also to the front bulkhead.

In there orginal condition they will not allow for the mico sized servos amd will only fit super micro size. So if you use or plan to use a HiTech hs-81mg or 85-mg it will need modification. Nothing our handy dremel and a barrel sanding bit (insert your favorite dremel bit here) will not take care of.

I actually had to grind a little closer than the picture but you should get the basic idea.

The servo case will also need a touch of the dremel in the areas where it is to fit between the two posts

It is deffinitely a tight fit and you have to be careful to leave enough metal as crews will go in the top and the bottom of both of these posts. You want to go close but not to close where you cut through be care and procede at your own risk.

The underbelly with rear attached

The front is a snap after you get the servo mounted with some shoo-goo. It was a good time to try and figure out what was causing that slop in my right front wheel. It seems the metal post that the right side steering pivots back and forth on seemed a little long. It caused the top piece not to be able to be tightened down all the way so I dug around and came up with a thin small washer that snugged it right up and took almost all the slop out.

Here are some more pics of the the fried Spy. Please excuse my bad photography and modest camera.

Look at the chip all melted like that.


To be continued....................

 

[mcvickj]

How did you melt your Spy? Too big of a motor? Or did running Li-Po batteries kill it?

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Originally posted by mcvickj
How did you melt your Spy? Too big of a motor? Or did running Li-Po batteries kill it?

Quote hard to tell, could have deff started the damage with the cell that almost exploded, who knows how fast it was discharging and it could have very well taxed that ass of the SPY. I think that was it as there are a lot of others usinf the SPY with 2-3 cells Li-Poly.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Update:

I decided to take the side battery holders off. Originally I thought they were chassis stiffeners but they were not. My Li-Poly battery is a little too wide for it. That is really why this chassis is great, with the stock one everything was forced to the rear adding insult to injury in regards to the weight. I can just take the side rails off and have plenty of room for any battery with in reason. The rear end was already way to heavy and anyone that jumps their Mini-T's I am sure can attest to this.

I chose Velcro for the way to keep my battery down

http://www.drivenbyboredom.com/bling.htm

Now this works out nicely for many reasons. I used a wide strip of Velcro so I can "adjust" the battery by moving it forward or backward for different weight distribution.

Here is the battery. It sits very low. Very good for keeping the CG low. I can definitely feel it in the turns compared to other batteries. As I was saying another reason for the Velcro is the battery. I could have just shoo goo'd it up but with a Li-Poly you cannot charge it in the vehicle (or shouldn't). So with the Velcro I can just swap batts quick and also remove them to charge in a Pyrex coffee pot.

Pic with the upper deck on. Now the Velcro does make the battery sit a little higher but imo it is worth the convenience.

Notice the R-18 up front shoo goo'd to the front of my JR RS 300. I love that ESC but I am also looking at the ESC that mounts right up to the motor and has caps built in and will allow 5-10 cells.

Now with this motor, battery, ESC you will shred plastic, nylon, and derilin gears. You can use aluminum or steel but I went for Ti.

Now another thing in the photo is the 58 tooth spur gear (60T stock). Now while it was fun to do wheelies all day long, the down side was it made it real hard to steer. I put the receiver up as far forward as I could on the upper deck (another plus of this chassis as far as more weight placement and accommodating to various electronics sizes). So the rx placed up front combined with a 58 instead of 60 tooth pinion does not make it wheelie any more which is what I was aiming for. The flight is so much better and weight distribution is pretty much endless to tweak.

Front shot

The underbelly completed. There are a few scratches on the tail in the carbon fiber so we will see how it holds up. I really won't worry about it as I have had scratches in carbon fiber before with no problems.

Top view

Here's my baby

 

[FSTFBDY]

awesome build up J. looks killer. got me wanting a mini-t instead of a micro rs4. Might trade mine in at the LHS for one.

BTW. pm or e-mail me your addy again. I have a spy to ship ya back. [email protected]

 

[mcvickj]

That is one bad ass looking mini-t. :thumbup:

 

[Team 17]

Very nicely done! She looks awesome. When are u going to race her?

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Now that I have had a little time with the new chassis here is the initial verdict, time will give the final one.

Ok so the chassis is just a tad lighter but it is worlds stiffer. You could actually run it without the upper deck it is so stiff. You will not have chassis flex if you upgrade to the 3Racing chassis. Went together good and is easy enough but you will be on your own with no instructions. Only modding that needed to be done was to the front braces, and you only need to mod if you use a Hitec hs-81mg servo or alike sized servo.

At first I had the misconception that the plastic side rails were for added support, this was not the case. The plastic on the sides hold the battery in and it is very flimsy plastic. small body clips hold them in place and only one clip needs to be removed in order to swing the plastic arm up and switch the battery out. For racing this is a AWESOME feature. My battery was a little wide so opted to take them off and run velcro, no biggie and it is a plus that they come off. The carbon fiber seems to be of excellent quality (I have seen the flimsy cheap crap) so that is a plus. I would say for the cost this is a must for racers and a pleasure for bashers. You don't have to get the silver one either the sell a black one for around $55.

Value: 8
Quality: 10
Practicality: 9
Durability: 8 (come on it's carbon fiber)
Apperance: 10
Overall: 9

 

[irishXminit]

nice chassis

Yea i seen you on rc universe looks good m8

here the pics of mine almost done the rest of the alluminum going on by the end of the week except the gearbox still need that!