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D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
Nice! gonna look sick with that head on it! here's my AE .21R pro with that head on it!
another few options for engines when you do bump up to a .28 is the Dynamite engines, i guess their combo spin/pull start assemblies arent very good, but the pull start only or the Spin start only good.
another few options for engines when you do bump up to a .28 is the Dynamite engines, i guess their combo spin/pull start assemblies arent very good, but the pull start only or the Spin start only good.
I see your sticking with the 21. I ran an LRP28S3 in my 1/8th buggy when I had it. It did well for me, but I'm just a basher. I ran heavy oil in the diffs, 50K in all 3 as I ran in grass/uneven ground a lot, so I was getting high centered quite often. Running heavier oil kills turning, but helps keep power to all the wheels even if a couple are in the air.
With 50k, I was pulling wheelies pretty easily.
With 50k, I was pulling wheelies pretty easily.
I couldn't find the stock or aftermarket head anywhere online either.
The manual for the PRO-21BX-R:
http://mms.tiger.tw/upload/upload_file/Engine/9482_man_ JA0462V5.pdf
Parts explosion:
The manual for the PRO-21BX-R:
http://mms.tiger.tw/upload/upload_file/Engine/9482_man_ JA0462V5.pdf
Parts explosion:
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
that is really strange, when i measured mine it was the same diameter that i found in the specs.
i guess one option at a risk is, (unless a return is possible or wanted),
if you know someone with a lathe, bring it in and the block in and have them turn it down,
if you are feeling mechanically inclined
if you don't best would probably figure out how to chuck the head squarely in a drill and use a very fine tooth file (a knife sharpening block or a nail fail even may work, after taping the flat surface where it impacts the top of the block/top of sleeve.
last chance scenario would be using a file/sandpaper (like 400 grit or more) and doing it by hand, this would be very difficult to keep it perfectly round though, and again tape the deck of the head so you wont dig into that causing air leaks
either way if this is the route you take test fit very often and go very slow.
my thoughts on that anyway, so take that for what you want.
seems thunder tiger is really hard to find parts for on older models without buying a new engine.
i guess one option at a risk is, (unless a return is possible or wanted),
if you know someone with a lathe, bring it in and the block in and have them turn it down,
if you are feeling mechanically inclined
if you don't best would probably figure out how to chuck the head squarely in a drill and use a very fine tooth file (a knife sharpening block or a nail fail even may work, after taping the flat surface where it impacts the top of the block/top of sleeve.
last chance scenario would be using a file/sandpaper (like 400 grit or more) and doing it by hand, this would be very difficult to keep it perfectly round though, and again tape the deck of the head so you wont dig into that causing air leaks
either way if this is the route you take test fit very often and go very slow.
my thoughts on that anyway, so take that for what you want.
seems thunder tiger is really hard to find parts for on older models without buying a new engine.
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
speed maybe not so much, as the specs show same RPM range, but it will allow you to gear up and still have torque in the bottom end.
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
that's gonna be a bit of experimenting, id probably start by going up one or two teeth on the clutchbell. could start with 2 and see where it goes from there.
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
get anything figured out as to which engine you were going to pick up?
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
lol just teasing without any pics or videos XD
Last edited:
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
awesome! able to get it broken in yet?
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
hows the power comparison? should also really liven up a few quarts in too, once all the surfaces are mated and broken in fully.
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
Hell yeah!!
lol is it trying to wheelie on tarmac?
what size hexes are on that truck? 14mm or 17mm?
if 17mm id say something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Loc...ocphy=9021355&hvtargid=pla-645729637570&psc=1
or maybe some pro-line badlands.
if 14mm id almost recommend to try the arrma D-boots fortress from the granite. am not sure for .28 nitro though, but i guess they hold up alright on blx models, on the granite i been running (brushed) they are really nice and grippy and good knobs on them. ( i want to get a set for my brushless rustler but its only 12mm hex.) they are monster truck tires though so a bit wider.
going to be kind of a difficult for both tarmac and grass, kind of opposite ends of the spectrum.
tires good on tarmac are going to have a hard time gripping on grass, and flip side that tires good on grass are going to wear out rather quick on tarmac.
lol is it trying to wheelie on tarmac?
what size hexes are on that truck? 14mm or 17mm?
if 17mm id say something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Loc...ocphy=9021355&hvtargid=pla-645729637570&psc=1
or maybe some pro-line badlands.
if 14mm id almost recommend to try the arrma D-boots fortress from the granite. am not sure for .28 nitro though, but i guess they hold up alright on blx models, on the granite i been running (brushed) they are really nice and grippy and good knobs on them. ( i want to get a set for my brushless rustler but its only 12mm hex.) they are monster truck tires though so a bit wider.
going to be kind of a difficult for both tarmac and grass, kind of opposite ends of the spectrum.
tires good on tarmac are going to have a hard time gripping on grass, and flip side that tires good on grass are going to wear out rather quick on tarmac.
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